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Huge Thank You! to Sonreir for hooking me up with a neat little EarthX battery for the bike. It's tiny compared to the original needs of the battery compartment. I have some electrical stuff on the way to build out the new harness. I've been conjuring up a little box to fit in the battery area to hold everything.
I was surprised to see that new motocross bikes are losing the kicker and going to e-start only. The batteries are small but have enough umph to turn those 450 singles over.
Lithium don't really rate by CCA. It's funny that even the lead acid batteries promote a CCA rating, which is a worthless rating. How often do you start your car or motorcycle at 0°F? In Georgia, that would be never.
Lithium don't really rate by CCA. It's funny that even the lead acid batteries promote a CCA rating, which is a worthless rating. How often do you start your car or motorcycle at 0°F? In Georgia, that would be never.
Batteries are promoted based on their CCA. The reality is, people rarely have to start their engines in 0°F for 30 seconds, which is what CCA is. 11°F isn't 0°, and the difference is enough. MCA is tested at 32°F and the number literally doubles from 0°F. But the main thing about it is that the way they are promoted causes people to buy batteries with way more CCA than they actually need, which means they are spending up to 30% more for a battery. I would wager that the battery you bought for your Commando would be good enough even for electric start. Your AH value is a more important number, since it's what determines your load. I think we're both confident in Matt's recommendation for a battery on your Commando, but it's because the AH number is right more than anything.
Slooow moving winter break so far. Minor progress update. I swapped the adjustable Tomaselli bars out for something simpler. These are the original bars off my 750 Zephyr. They look and feel better to me. The cable routing is also much easier. I also got some new turn signals mounted where I like them. I'm also still working on a box for the electrics.
Thanks man. They helped clean up the front end a lot. I'll need to figure out something different for a rear view mirror but no biggie. The dash and cable cleanup is worth it. The routing for the front hydraulic line ended up being really funky and annoying with the Tomaselli's.
Here's an issue maybe one or two of you can help with ideas for. The top of the carb circled, is just under an inch of clearance to the frame. I need to find either a different fitting or something otherwise it's too tight of a bend for a cable.
Yeah, obviously an elbow bend of some sort but it's really tight in there. Even those in the pics probably wouldn't fit. I'm planning on a call to Sudco about their options for the carb tops but cable-wise I haven't been able to locate one that would fit as is.
Nobody around here seems to want to pay Flanders prices. I've suggested Flanders for bars and got rejected. LOL. The chrome on the Flanders M bars I have is insanely durable.
I had about that much room on my tw200 after the mikuni clone swap, and this did the trick for me. Not sure of the thread pitch on your carb, but it may do the trick if its the same.
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I've suggested Flanders for bars and got rejected. LOL. The chrome on the Flanders M bars I have is insanely durable.
