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Finally got more time to put in to the bike. Got to take it around the blocl some more and found some more bugs in there.
I originally set out to get some smaller main jets in there as top of my throttle was bogging down. I got the smaller jets and took it for a spin. It was definitely working better but its still not perfect. I have to mess with the needle jet now. Still bogging around 1/2 throttle and I pulled the plugs and they were black. Getting to the needle jets are kind of a PITA but I'll get in there tomorrow.
The, while on the ride I hit a little bump in the road and noticed theat the front end was acting funny. Took it back home and put it on the stand. There was some play in the forks. If you're looking at the left hand side of the bike, the forks/front end would move left to right. I tighten up all of the spanners for the tripple trees. It made it better but there is still some play there. Not sure what to do about that. Could it have something to do with the tapered bearing I put in?
Lastly, I have to get a bigger fuse. Started getting the lights hooked up and was blowing through fuses trying to start the bike. Realized that i was using a 7A when i should be using a 15A fuse. DOH!
Slowly but surely I'm chipping away and tuning this thing. Story of this bike though, I suppose.
I spent the night pulling the needles and dropped them to the 2nd position (The were in the 5th position! No wonder they were rich!).
Couldnt get it to start so I decided to work on the electrical. I got a new crimper tool and the connections from Vintage Connections. Re-did all of the dual or triple connections and shielded them. Looks nice.
Also, got the Radiantz flex tail light in. I am looking forward to getting that thing on there and turn indicators done. At that point, I should be able to try any get it checked out by CHP and get it registered.
Joe, further to PJ's comment about pulling and not pushing. When you stand on the brakes, if it pulls the rod tries to straighten itself because it should be straight. That decreases stopping action a little.
If it pushes, then it can bend further and that makes for zero brakes in an emergency stop if the rod bends enough - which it can.
The brakes are single leading, single trailing shoe, so I don't think they care much which way the lever modes because the lifting (cam) action is the same either direction- unless it has an asymmetrical cam which is unusual on SLS brakes.
So the brake action is OK push or pull but it works better and is safer in "pull" mode.
The paint bubbles indicate high temperature but that could be the paint that's not suitable. It looks as if the most bubbles are at the end and that might be a bearing failing in the top cover. if it were mine, I'd pop the valve cover off just to be sure.
BTW, please tell your spell checker that it's intact not in tacked.
Taper rollers tend to settle and need to be adjusted. Put the bike on a stand and prop it so that the front wheel is in the air. Remove the top triple clamp or at least loosen the center bolt/nut and the fork bolts - top clamp only!
Now tighten the castellated nut until there is no play in the forks but the front will drop to one side under its own weight. There's a fine line between too loose and too tight. What you want is zero play but still able to move easily.
Then replace the top triple clamp and tighten with a torque wrench - not too tight or they crack.
The brakes are single leading, single trailing shoe, so I don't think they care much which way the lever modes because the lifting (cam) action is the same either direction- unless it has an asymmetrical cam which is unusual on SLS brakes.
Not true.
The 'top' of cam pushes on the trailing shoe, the bottom of cam pushes on leading shoe.
There will be a difference based on the cam 'diameter' (plus, personally, I've found it does make a difference )
If it's operating 'backwards' (either from lever being on top or pushing)
the top of cam applies extra leverage to the leading shoe and less leverage to trailing shoe.
Personally, I wouldn't do it, also, I have seen brake shoe 'explode' after panic braking (although I can't verify the cause I have my suspicions)
If you used 'ordinary' primer and paint, you can expect it to bubble.
You probably still had some 'soft' spots as well.
Temp isn't excessive around exhaust port area,I've seen much higher temps on my XS800
The logic is that the leading shoe is actuated by the part of the cam further from the axle and therefore there will be more leverage than the trailing shoe actuated by the part of the cam closer to the axle.
That sounds logical, but it isn't correct. In fact both shoes are subject to the same force from the symmetrical cam and both lift the same amount. Each contacts the drum in the same way and they share a common pivot point at the front of the brake plate.
So they are both subject the same force regardless of direction of rotation of the cam.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it
I agree with your explanation of the low temp paint if it's blistered somewhat evenly across the whole cover, but I'd still pull the top cover just to be sure.
The pressures may be close to equal but the self servo action means leading shoe 'grabs' drum harder, otherwise there wouldn't be any point in having TLS brakes
I looked into it long time ago when I found out Rolls Royce (before they used disc brakes) used servo operated twin trailing shoes.
Apparently they are incredibly smooth operation but require much heavier than normal pressure to work
Spot on that the leading shoe self servo's onto the drum. But that makes no difference which way the cam rotates. The leading shoe is always the leading shoe.
Hahaha you guys are great. I'll have to read this interaction thoroughly before I make any moves on the breaks.
So the night ended in a very frustrating way. I was back to blowing fuses when I would turn the bike on. Something has to be grounding out and I can't figure out why. I also have battery issues. I was planning on using the kick-starter so I purchased an 9amp battery, built my box around it etc. and now with all this tuning, I am draining the battery pretty quickly. I'll figure that part out. Hopefully, I wont be tinkering on this thing too much longer and can actually ride it a fair distance.
I just hate chasing down wiring issues and that seems like all I'm doing. Two steps forward, one back. I would get the tail light to work... then the bike would shut off. I'd get it to start again, then the fuse would blow. It was just a rough night.
The heat of that side of the engine is suspicious too.
I know I'm rambling but Im flashing back to last night and thinking of all the things that happened. UGH!!!!
I agree with your explanation of the low temp paint if it's blistered somewhat evenly across the whole cover, but I'd still pull the top cover just to be sure.
That's what's getting me too. I have been getting a lot of smoke from the breather tube also. I have one of the small filters on there but that shouldnt cause this. I put a bit of oil on top before I torqued everything down but that shouldn't be causing smoke.
Also, PJ, that temp is from the header collar. Consistent on all four cylinders +/- 10*
That's less worrying. Consistency may be boring in a relationship, but helps in a motor.
I'd chase those wiring issues first because they are not going away on their own. Just be systematic and follow one thing at a time. Fuses blow because the load is too high and that usually is because it's too small of a fuse or more usually because there's a short somewhere that you have to locate and fix.
Yikes on that valve cover paint. What brand did you use? I've seen high temp silver paint "brown" when a motor overheated from a starved top end, but not bubble. So, I guess that's very slightly reassuring, looks like low temp paint?
that is nuts is that powder that bubbled like that? if so it could be that it was not prepped and is outgassing due to lack of cure time... just an option... thanks for the info on the brake arm guys that is great info! Will def come into play on my next creation of my rear brake set up
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