The SkyTeam 'Ace' Resource

Sneikz, is there any year model for the 125 thats better than the others for fitment, reliability etc? It will need to wait a month or two as I am replacing steering bars and ball joints on my other sloverland vehicle which is 1962 Series 2a landrover.

I dont know if you would know but do those Skyteam Canberra front engine mounts for 250 also fit the 125 with no issue? or are they different sizes?

Box of goodies arrived today from OOracing.

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Just to say what goodies I got, new bars(need to wait till i get new grips to put them on) bar end mirrors, new plug, new performance coil, new CDI, new air filter to replace ugly air box, helmet hook and a new Speedo to replace stock gauge's.

Will be doing a some pics as I start the modding project for some of the stuff tomorrow.

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Beelzebub said:
Hey guys does anyone know how to get this stupid kickstand switch removed if there's a guide to that, that would be brill.

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On my 50 there is a plug you can unplug to disable the stand kill switch, you can ignore the on off switch thats something custom.


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Yeah I've tried to disconnect it but that didn't work, wouldn't start at all, then tried tricking it by putting some motor wire in the end but that didn't work and neither did my fuse idea

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I lost my cool with the accursed side stand cut out..pulled the wires out of the side stand end in a none too sophisticated attack. I think I lashed the bare ends together under some heat shrink tubing and tucked them out of the way somewhere. Was a while ago so memory is a bit hazy, it was but a couple of moments work though.

Nearly went for a ride today but everywhere is so utterly poxy and manky at the moment-decided to have an enormous Sunday roast with a gallon of gravy at the pub down the road instead. Equally as enjoyable, just in a different way.

Keep smiling.

i think ill have to leave the bloody thing as i cant figure it out at all.

All i wanna do is be able to start it and walk away while it warms up as the English winters require me to sit on it out in the cold for about 10 minutes
Hello all!
Long time reader, first time poster.
Just finished reading through all 265 pages of this wonderful forum and I have to say THANKYOU! All of your information, insporation and banter has been extremely helpful/entertaining. A huge thanks especially to Stroker Crazy and Orrible for really pushing the envelope.

I've had a red-framed Ace 125 for a few years now, and have been working on it on-and-off since. Just recently I've had a ton of drive to keep tinkering and riding the little jem.

Mods so far:
- OORacing header pipe
- Ebay shorty muffler (still too loud, going to change for reverse cone)
- OORacing ECU
- OORacing rear sproket
- Chinese Mikuni carb
- Michelin "Sporty" tyres
- NISSIN front brake master cylinder/lever from a Suzuki DR200
- Battery delete (old battery died, runs perfectly without it, decided it doesn't need one)
- NGK spark plug
- Renthal motorcross grips
- ebay tacho (has failed after jumping around everywhere, new one in the mail)
- Removed tank strap
- Removed rear fender
- Made a tail tidy to hold the standard tail light/numberplate bracket (went over a speed bump and it flexed far enough to get sucked into the back tyre... back to the drawing board)

Planned mods:
- bikini fairing
- new coil & lead
- steering dampner (my word these things are twitchy at speed)
- fork spring spacers/preloaders
- replace rear (useless and scary) suspension

The dream is for it to be a kind of homage to the original RC110, the CR110, the Dream 50, and to Honda's grand prix racing history in general.

A few questions...

Does anyone have a link for a steering damper for the Ace 125? Or a universal one that can be used?

Orrible, is there any chance I can get my hands on one of your performance cams? And are there any must-do mods to accomodate them? (I read somewhere valve springs from the 150 head and valve spring pre-tensioners?)

Thanks in advance :)

- Steve
Giday Steve.
My cam was hand ground and therefore unavailable but I have run a Brazilian cam with good results. Will dig up the part number but can’t help with a supplier. . Go with the heavier valve springs and shim them up anyway. . Most important mod is headwork

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Hi guys, im looking to change the seat style on my ace to a brat seat (brown, leather) was wondering if anyone has tried buying the pre-made seats from ebay and fitting them on, or if there's a company that makes a size that fits the ace? most ebay ones seem a bit big. alternatively what would it take to make a seat?

You better tell a bit more. Where from, how much, mods required please. You can't just tease us like that!
Haha Speedo is the Koso gp style from ooracing, I think it was £175 and no modding required to fit since it a simple plug and play kit, just a bit of a fiddle to get all the wires in place but a few cable ties fixes that issue but it's lovely once it's all set up, for me much better than the standard

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Here's a key mod. It now looks like just a chrome cap. No need to ever remove. The mod was originally for my M109, but as I had two caps I thought I'd do one for the Ace. Doesn't look too out of place. Maybe better with a smaller cap. Cost $22.

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Hi guys. I am an chinese student study in Sydney. I also have a ace 125.I just know the website. I would like to share the website of the skyteam factory so that some guys may need it. You could order some factory parts from it. It is TAOBAO(like chinese ebay)
Hiya, sorry about posting to this old thread, but this is a great thread and I believe it's still relevant to many people even now. I'm actually following up on orrible-64s post #2342, check your rear wheel bearings. How do you do this........ We'll this is how I did it.
Firstly wheels should go round and round, not wiggle side to side, so if you can grab opposite sides of the wheel and wiggle it side to side then they need replaced.
Remove rear wheel. Make sure you don't lose all the wee bits (nuts, washers, split pins etc) of the linkages. I managed to drop the trunnion pin out of the break arm and spent about an hour cursing wildly as I hunted through the grass doing a fingertip search for the little blighter. Either keep the bits in a handy container for reassembly or reattach then once you've taken the wheel off.
It's best to use a blind bearing removal tool to get the bearings out, but if you don't have that, then a hammer and drift will do, but be prepared for skint knuckles and bashed thumbs. There is a spacer between the two bearings so you need to push that a little to one side to get at the bearing with the drift (steel rod at least 8 inches long), then start bashing away at the bearing. Drift sounds gentle, but there is nothing gentle about this process and the duct invariably bounces on the bearing and you hit your thumb repeatedly, cue more cursing. After some time you will probably wreck the inner ring of the bearing, as I did, so it will fall out followed by the ball bearings and cage they sit in. The spacer will then fall out so you can at last get your drift onto the outer rim and start bashing that out. Move the position of the drift in circles so you are knocking it out more or less parallel to the hub. Eventually that to will come out.
Flip the wheel over and do the other side, that will entail removing the dust/grease cap first this comes out fairly easily, but you should probably fit a new one when you are reassembling the wheel. Do the same thing again with this bearing, tapping around the outer rim of the bearing with the drift, cue more skint knuckles and bashed thumbs.
Success, you now have a bearing free wheel. Time for a break and tend to your wounds. Put your new bearings in the freezer, this will slightly shrink the bearings so they will be easier to fit.
I used this time to check out a few online videos on bearing removal, but they were all unrealistically straight forward.
To fit the new bearings I tried heating the hub first with a hot air gun. This made the reassembly much easier than the removal. I also made little wooden blocks to act as drifts, but would not scratch the new bearings. With a warm hub and very cold bearings they popped in quite easily. Only trouble was I forgot the spacer. Doh! Much more cursing. I decided to try knocking out one of the bearings as gently as possible and hope I could reuse it. Warming the hub up is definitely the way to go. The bearings came out easily and undamaged. I put the spacer in and taped the bearing back. All done.
Check that the bearings are free running and no gritty binding feel to them and your ready to fit the wheel back on.
These were sealed bearings, size 6301 and 6201, bought online for about £10 the pair.
I hope this comes in handy for anyone wanting to do this job themselves. It's actually quite rewarding doing it yourself rather than paying someone.
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