ugly duckling CM400T build - Calling it finished
- Thread starter fresh_c
- Start date
fresh_c
Been Around the Block
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
The first picture is of my stock, CM400T swingarm. It measures about 9.5" from inside to inside. The second photo is the Nighthawk swingarm mounted and it measures just over 9.5" from inside to inside. I'm running the stock wheel spacers and a rear wheel off a 1979ish CB400T, which as far as I can tell is the same spacing as a CM400T wheel. I have not noticed any negative issues from running the slightly longer swingarm.
coldfuzion76 said:
The first picture is of my stock, CM400T swingarm. It measures about 9.5" from inside to inside. The second photo is the Nighthawk swingarm mounted and it measures just over 9.5" from inside to inside. I'm running the stock wheel spacers and a rear wheel off a 1979ish CB400T, which as far as I can tell is the same spacing as a CM400T wheel. I have not noticed any negative issues from running the slightly longer swingarm.
fresh_c
Been Around the Block
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
Thank you very much. This build has been very rewarding so far and I am continually impressed with the CM builds others have showcased here.
The stock headlight definitely sucks, but I've read to can throw in one from a '83 Shadow with little modification. Let me know if you find anything because I'm very interested.
No paint yet, but hopefully in the next few months. I'll keep you guys updated.
Good luck with your build!
Swamp Slinger said:
Thank you very much. This build has been very rewarding so far and I am continually impressed with the CM builds others have showcased here.
The stock headlight definitely sucks, but I've read to can throw in one from a '83 Shadow with little modification. Let me know if you find anything because I'm very interested.
No paint yet, but hopefully in the next few months. I'll keep you guys updated.
Good luck with your build!
coldfuzion76
Active Member
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
Nice to see you're back at it! I must have wound up with a later year swingarm or something, because mine was an inch wider than the stick CM arm. Got lucky with the axle I bought and it came with the stock spacers. Wound up using the bigger brake side spacer from both axles and it worked perfect. Details are in my sig if you want to have a look.
fresh_c said:
Nice to see you're back at it! I must have wound up with a later year swingarm or something, because mine was an inch wider than the stick CM arm. Got lucky with the axle I bought and it came with the stock spacers. Wound up using the bigger brake side spacer from both axles and it worked perfect. Details are in my sig if you want to have a look.
fresh_c
Been Around the Block
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
I managed to get a little done on the exhaust tonight. I started by wrapping the pipes around the sides of the motor and into a collector I made myself. It was a bit of a chore since I only had a couple half-gone cutoff wheels left, but it'll do. Everything is tacked until I get my muffler from DCC. Tracking shows it will be here Monday. Damn no weekend delivery.
I managed to get a little done on the exhaust tonight. I started by wrapping the pipes around the sides of the motor and into a collector I made myself. It was a bit of a chore since I only had a couple half-gone cutoff wheels left, but it'll do. Everything is tacked until I get my muffler from DCC. Tracking shows it will be here Monday. Damn no weekend delivery.
longhorn717
Active Member
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
Man I've been trying to figure out my exhaust for the longest time. I'm digging the 2-1 collector. my thought was to collect in front of the motor wrap around the right side of the motor if you're looking at it from the front. and have a shorty muffler tucked up under the motor so you really wouldn't see it. Your's sure does look nice though....decisions decisions.
Man I've been trying to figure out my exhaust for the longest time. I'm digging the 2-1 collector. my thought was to collect in front of the motor wrap around the right side of the motor if you're looking at it from the front. and have a shorty muffler tucked up under the motor so you really wouldn't see it. Your's sure does look nice though....decisions decisions.
fresh_c
Been Around the Block
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
That would be pretty cool to wrap them around the front of the engine. I also thought about building a collector/muffler under the void between where the tranny and center stand once was. It would look something like modern Buell exhaust, but I decided this would be a little more fitting for the overall look of the bike.
longhorn717 said:
That would be pretty cool to wrap them around the front of the engine. I also thought about building a collector/muffler under the void between where the tranny and center stand once was. It would look something like modern Buell exhaust, but I decided this would be a little more fitting for the overall look of the bike.
fresh_c
Been Around the Block
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
My Dime City package showed up on the doorstep today and once again these guys came through with fast service at a great price. I got fuel lines, pods, a head breather, shifter arm, and shorty reverse cone muffler.
First up was the exhaust. I added a couple bends to route the exhaust where it would clear everything and positioned the muffler just right. All the pieces where tacked in place then welded solid, with the exception of the muffler. I don't think I'm going to be able to weld on the muffler since it would make the exhaust next to impossible to get off. I'll either clamp the muffler or add springs and slip joints somewhere else. None the less here is what I have tacked and the muffler mocked up.
Welds in place and ground down...
And mounted up. As I mentioned, the muffler is just hanging there right now and I can still adjust it some in any direction. I'm thinking about kicking it up just a little bit more but I'll wait a little while to decide.
My Dime City package showed up on the doorstep today and once again these guys came through with fast service at a great price. I got fuel lines, pods, a head breather, shifter arm, and shorty reverse cone muffler.
First up was the exhaust. I added a couple bends to route the exhaust where it would clear everything and positioned the muffler just right. All the pieces where tacked in place then welded solid, with the exception of the muffler. I don't think I'm going to be able to weld on the muffler since it would make the exhaust next to impossible to get off. I'll either clamp the muffler or add springs and slip joints somewhere else. None the less here is what I have tacked and the muffler mocked up.
Welds in place and ground down...
And mounted up. As I mentioned, the muffler is just hanging there right now and I can still adjust it some in any direction. I'm thinking about kicking it up just a little bit more but I'll wait a little while to decide.
fresh_c
Been Around the Block
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
The shifter got mounted up as well. It's Loaded Gun Rearsets, a DCC universal shifter arm, a couple clevis rod ends from McMaster, and a section of stainless rod. The clevis pins ride on graphite impregnated brass bushings, also from McMaster. This is because the LG shifter arms are 1/4" thick with 5/16" holes, and because a standard 1/4" wide clevis end uses a 1/4" pin. I needed something to fill in the gap and at the same time be smooth, thus the bushings (and they are flipping cheap @ <$1 each). The universal shifter arm is 1/4" thick as well, but comes with much smaller holes drilled in it. So, I opened the top hole to 5/16", added a bushing, and I'm back in business. I think it looks pretty good and it's a nice crisp shift to boot! So if anyone from Loaded Gun reads this, please start sending your rearsets with 1/4" or smaller holes.
The shifter got mounted up as well. It's Loaded Gun Rearsets, a DCC universal shifter arm, a couple clevis rod ends from McMaster, and a section of stainless rod. The clevis pins ride on graphite impregnated brass bushings, also from McMaster. This is because the LG shifter arms are 1/4" thick with 5/16" holes, and because a standard 1/4" wide clevis end uses a 1/4" pin. I needed something to fill in the gap and at the same time be smooth, thus the bushings (and they are flipping cheap @ <$1 each). The universal shifter arm is 1/4" thick as well, but comes with much smaller holes drilled in it. So, I opened the top hole to 5/16", added a bushing, and I'm back in business. I think it looks pretty good and it's a nice crisp shift to boot! So if anyone from Loaded Gun reads this, please start sending your rearsets with 1/4" or smaller holes.
drduke
Been Around the Block
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
Nice rear brake set up...simple but effective...have you by any chance figured out a mechanism to stop the rear set lever coming back up too far....can you adjust the position?
fresh_c said:I mentioned that I purchased some Loaded Gun rear sets (which are very nice and easy on the wallet as far as rear sets go) a while back, and I've been stuck on figuring out the rear brake linkage. After much debate, I decided to go old school and run a cable actuated brake. It's still needs some work before I call it done, but for the first time in a while I have a functional rear brake.
I also ordered a Mikuni tuning manual which is full of really helpful information. And for about $10 it's a cheap investment for anyone trying to figure out VM carbs.
Some parts came in from McMaster to set up the shift linkage with the rear sets. Stainless rod, clevis ends, and sleeve bearings. The sleeve bearings are made from a graphite rich bronze that will both lubricate and reduce the holes size in the LG rear sets to some closer to what I need. I've got a universal shifter arm coming from the boys at DCC so the setup isn't finished, but close.
Nice rear brake set up...simple but effective...have you by any chance figured out a mechanism to stop the rear set lever coming back up too far....can you adjust the position?
fresh_c
Been Around the Block
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
You're right in that it's just kinda floating right now. I also don't have a brake light switch in place. The idea in my head is to mount a piece of aluminum under the brake arm that stops on the CB peg mount. I can then use a set screw and jam nut to fine adjust the position, and the piece of aluminum can actuate a hidden switch. That's the idea for now, anyway.
drduke said:
You're right in that it's just kinda floating right now. I also don't have a brake light switch in place. The idea in my head is to mount a piece of aluminum under the brake arm that stops on the CB peg mount. I can then use a set screw and jam nut to fine adjust the position, and the piece of aluminum can actuate a hidden switch. That's the idea for now, anyway.
drduke
Been Around the Block
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
That's sound like a plan....I'm building the same only based on a CB400T Hawk, and to be honest it one part of the build i'm struggling with in terms of getting a nice rear brake set up...see my link...
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=41432.30
That's sound like a plan....I'm building the same only based on a CB400T Hawk, and to be honest it one part of the build i'm struggling with in terms of getting a nice rear brake set up...see my link...
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=41432.30
fresh_c
Been Around the Block
Re: ugly duckling CM400T build
Looks good so far. For the brake, open up your rear drum housing and look at the mechanics of the shoe actuation. If the brake shoes are cammed to expand no matter which way you turn the lever (both clockwise and counterclockwise), you might be able to flip the little splined arm that is on the outside of the housing and run a rod to the rearset arm. That way you're pulling the arm (in tension) and keeping a mostly stock setup. In other words, you might be able to have the arm point up instead of down.
drduke said:
Looks good so far. For the brake, open up your rear drum housing and look at the mechanics of the shoe actuation. If the brake shoes are cammed to expand no matter which way you turn the lever (both clockwise and counterclockwise), you might be able to flip the little splined arm that is on the outside of the housing and run a rod to the rearset arm. That way you're pulling the arm (in tension) and keeping a mostly stock setup. In other words, you might be able to have the arm point up instead of down.
