Universal - Adjustable Rearset - more pictures and discount option

Viet said:
Hi,
I think the best location to mount the rearset is the mounting bolt on the aluminum triangle on both side of the bike frame. There is a bolt that set back ( farest to the current position). If so, youcould measure some information for me:
1. The distance from the mounting hole to the gear shift shaft
2. The distance from right mounting hole to the brake cam( on the rear brake hub)
3. Would you like a folding peg or fix peg?
The price is 90+ shipping of 45 USD
THANKS
Viet

This was your response to someone inquiring about a cm400. Did you ever end up making the rear set for him? Btw I think the mounting position you mentioned is spot on!
 
Scratcher09 said:
I would like to order a complete set (with rods and clevises) for my CL350. How do I order?
Hi,

Please pm me your paypal email, I will send an paypal invoice. Price for a CL350 rearset is US$110 including shipping.

Many thanks
Viet
 
Viet said:
Hi,

Please pm me your paypal email, I will send an paypal invoice. Price for a CL350 rearset is US$110 including shipping.

Many thanks
Viet
GriporSlip said:
This was your response to someone inquiring about a cm400. Did you ever end up making the rear set for him? Btw I think the mounting position you mentioned is spot on!

Hi,

It is long time ago. Price now is $110 including shipping.

Please see my photo for detail mounting position
 
^ Got it, this is going to be a slight challenge for me because that's where I was going to mount my exhaust also but luckily I haven't gotten the brackets welded up. Would you happen to have any pictures? Just trying to get a better idea on what I can do with the exhaust or if I'll have to go a completely different route with it.
 
So far the viet rearsets have held up quite well, however the set I bought came powdercoated black which I was not informed would be the case (big deal, I let it slide) but they aren't even fully powdercoated black (toe pegs are still chrome and look dumb). I followed up with Viet to ask about getting black powdercoated toe pegs shipped to match without a response.

When setting up the rearsets, I found that they were NOT adjustable because they were powdercoated black when already assembled, not when they were still individual pieces. As such, to be able to make them adjustable I had to reheat the area where the main lever piece and the pivot meet (basically where the two 'gear' shaped pieces meet) to be able to remove and adjust the rearsets.

Not overly impressed as I was a) not informed they would be powdercoated black b) they were not even properly powdercoated black (individually coated, rather than coated when assembled), c) the toe pegs weren't even powdercoated black and d) the fact that I got no response when voicing said concern.

long story short, the Lesson I can give others ordering is make sure to mention when ordering from Viet that you explicitly mention you do not want your rearsets powdercoated regardless.

- A
 
Mine came in yesterday I only had a minute this morning before work to skim through the package.

Everything seams like its there, nothing is powdercoated besides the mounts he provided. (not even sure they are powdercoated they're just wrinkle black)

Still slightly confused as how to mount these up on the cm400.

Also I will admit the communication was fairly vague.
 
Hi Viet

I have a CB400ss and am looking for some rearsets for it.

It's not the most common bike around, which is making parts a little hard to find.

Any chance you can help?

Cheers,
VT
 
Hey guys, pick up a set of these a while back for my cb350. Went to mount them today but it seems like the linkage for the break is better suited if the linkage arm on the rear drum is fliped. Can anyone confirm ?
 
viet,

I bought your setup for my 1974 kz400 a while ago and am having fitment issues now that i am almost finished with my build. As i have it right now the kickstand is in the way of the shifter, is this setup right? I really dont want to have to goto a center stand setup or cut and reweld the kickstand mount further up the frame. I switched the shift linkage to be above the rearsets now, unlike in the picture. Do i have to put the mounts further up the frame? how did you design them to work? The rightside also took some creativity by mounting the drum arm above the swingarm no below the swingarm due to interference issues.


this is how everything is mounted right now........



You should be able to see the interference issue with the kickstand on this picture ( the shift linkage is routed on top now unlike in the picture)

 
Cbone said:
Hey guys, pick up a set of these a while back for my cb350. Went to mount them today but it seems like the linkage for the break is better suited if the linkage arm on the rear drum is fliped. Can anyone confirm ?

on my kz400 i had to flip the drum brake arm and route the rod above the swingarm
 
jessetheviking said:
on my kz400 i had to flip the drum brake arm and route the rod above the swingarm

Thanks for the follow up, I ended up doing the same thing last night. Did you figure something out for a pedal return spring or the break switch?
 
Cbone said:
Thanks for the follow up, I ended up doing the same thing last night. Did you figure something out for a pedal return spring or the break switch?

i had no issues with my pedal return spring, i think i am going to just forget about the rear brake switch all together since i use the front brake in conjunction with the rear anyways. I will see if i can get a good pic of the brake side setup
 
jessetheviking said:
i had no issues with my pedal return spring, i think i am going to just forget about the rear brake switch all together since i use the front brake in conjunction with the rear anyways. I will see if i can get a good pic of the brake side setup

Yeah i would be stoked to see it. My break doesn't pop back into position, maybe i just need to adjust it a bit. As far as the break switch I was kinda thing the same thing.
 
Hi Guys,
I used to set up my rearset in as in the first photo. But what i see here is that the gearshift rod is a bit longer than it should be. If you can cut and tig weld, the you can cut it short by 1-1 1/2 inches to make it clean and in better arrangement.
Thank you
Viet
 
okay so even more issues have arrived with these rear sets. One thing i noticed but decided to try it out anyways is the cir-clip channel on the foot peg is too narrow for the supplied clip; which caused my gear shift lever to drop on my first ride with them installed and had to call for tools to do the repair on the side of the highway. Also i had a weld fail on that same ride which caused me to lose a foot peg all together; luckily i found it. I had concern of the quality of these rearsets and now my concerns have proof. Here are some pics of the issues described about.

Viet whats up with these rearsets and what can I do about them?

cir-clip channel too narrow, shitty pic but couldnt get a good close up when installed.


broken weld causing the foot peg to fall off, i fixed it with a tack weld at a buddies shop to limp it home.





 
Dear Jess,
I am apology for the problem occured to you and all in convinience. It is the first time this happened and I will check al my retaining rearset. I will need ensure no problem like this happen again.
Please let me resend the new peg to you and pm me your address.
Many thanks
Viet
 
thanks for the quick response! The problem is with both sides because the c-clip channel is too narrow and it cant properly be seated. As far as the weld breaking; The small tack weld inside of the peg is probably not good enough to hold when torquing down the nut during installation. I would suggest going with a machined peg instead of a welded together setup such as this. If you have improved your design with the tack weld and c-clip channel issues then I would like another set; but, if its the same thing then i will just keep what i have.
 
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