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I use a degree wheel a lot of the time for most applications. I made an adjustable stop out of a spark plug body and a bolt that I screw into the spark plug threads and turn the crank back and forth so the piston touches the stop in both directions. I note the number of degrees it turns, divide by two and reset the degree wheel to this number. Zero degrees will be at top center, VERY accurate method. Then simply turn the crank to the degrees where you want to set timing or make marks for a strobe light. Here is a handy calculator for piston location vs. crankshaft degrees: http://www.dansmc.com/mc_software2.htm
You can also check the factory marks on the stock rotor, make new marks if off and then use a strobe light to adjust the stock points. As I recall with MZB/Power Dynamo it is too much trouble as you have to adjust the flywheel orientation so a degree wheel is out and you have to use a dial indicator. If you don't want to buy a special kit with the spark plug adapter it is pretty simple to just remove the left side cylinder head which makes a lot of room to use any dial indicator. Pretty easy to create a means of fixturing it - I made a simple bar out of aluminum to span the bore that bolts down with two head bolts.
My fixture is a couple of small offcuts of angle aluminum and a head bolt, some washers and 1/2" of tube. It doesn't need to be fancy - just stiff enough to not deflect much.
I actually tried that method once on my old RD, but the fins in the head and the clearance around there just didn't allow for the gauge to sit in there. I'll have to try to build something that sits on the cylinder with the head off.
For what it's worth, I made a spark plug hole adapter for an indicator, and it made things a bit challenging for me, as it would still build compression with the indicator in it and was hard to stop right where I wanted it to. Almost like it still had a spark plug in it
Nice links Teazer. The tricky part for the air cooled heads plug adapter is the extension for the dial indicator. It has to be just the right length so the dial portion is out of the fins but much longer than that and it is too tall for frame clearance. I had a factory Yamaha kit but lost the extension long ago so now I just pop the head off. The kits I have seen advertised as dedicated for the RD's seem crazy expensive to me so I figure one of these days I'll just buy a cheap indicator set with extensions and shorten one of them up to get the right length. Making the plug adapter is easy enough as shown in one of those links - looks nearly like the positive stop I made the same way! If you bought one of those dial indicator sets with the magnetic base and articulated arm you could just stick it on the frame with the head off, or with a really long extension you could probably clamp it to the frame with the indicator dial above the frame with the extension passing the frame - I believe there is just enough room though I haven't tried it myself.
While trying to figure out what to do about timing, I took a break to try and finish up the side covers. Last time I painted a motor before having it all tuned out perfect I ended up spilling gas and fucking it all up, so im going powder on the side covers this time. First time doing anything 'complex'. Started with the smallest part to see how it would end up, Its not perfect but im quite happy with it.
Been a lot of work going on, also a lot of parts in trucks/planes. The only big issue I think I have right now is that my front master cylinder is hitting my fairing brace. I have a new remote reservoir brake coming in to see if I can finagle something.
Running a Cyron LED bulb to help keep watts down since I won't be running a battery. One issue could be housing heat, there are a couple wires in the bucket but not a full nest. I will have to watch the temps early on. However, this bulb is so bright. I was very impressed.
I've been running those LEDs almost exclusively on my bikes since I discovered them. No going back! They get warm, but not warm enough to make me worry, I think you'll be just fine. They're awesome! Carry on buddy, you're making a good push!
Hit the exhaust with some wool, and got it all buttoned up. Also got the place picked up some. Barber is still in the sites though I might be hoping to get some last minute help from people a lot smarter than me to get it running correctly.
Mothgils pulled some oc choppers shit with the front fender last night so I could get it to the body guy today. Then got the reverse mask laid out on the parts so the baby blue can go down. About 70% of the bike is done at this part, but the actually getting it to run I think will be quite a story.
Seriously close, have all my clutch stuff in so hope to get the timing set, carbs finished, cages modified, and all back together this week. Maybe try to start it this weekend?????
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