I just recently joined the forum. I just got a Virago XV920 from my neighbor. the bike was left outside for about 2 years so the tank is in terrible condition and the wiring needs to be done. My plan is to strip her down and rewire just to make sure the bike runs. This is my first build so all comments are welcome. There may be things I have not thought about while disassembling the bike please advise.
Virago 920 XV cafe racer / custom
- Thread starter ao32
- Start date
Thanks for the advice. The wiring was bad so i thought to strip it first.Grazz256 said:
Do you have a mitigation plan for this
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Check out the condition of the cam bearings - they are plain alloy [ !!! ] and are prone to galling / seizing. Roller bearing conversions available as are oil pressure gauge kits. Easy to do - simply remove the end cover to gain access. Cheap insurance !! 
SplitLanesDaily
New Member
Looking forward to seeing how this build goes. I may want one of my very own.
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Can someone give me a detailed procedure on how to test compression on bike that is only electric start.
Currently the bike does not have a battery and the wiring needs to done, if i could get a quick and dirt way to do a compression test that would be great.
more pics coming soon.
Currently the bike does not have a battery and the wiring needs to done, if i could get a quick and dirt way to do a compression test that would be great.
more pics coming soon.
K
Kamn
Guest
its done by getting the motor to spin over with the throttle wide open, so get the starter wired up quick and dirty, it just needs power for to be able to spin the motor a few times. Simple way is direct battery connections to starter with a push button switch on the positive side...when you push the button and hold it gives the starter direct power and when the button is released it cuts the connection
Does that help?? Some auto supply stores even sell these
Does that help?? Some auto supply stores even sell these
tv_cafewannabe
New Member
Congrats on the project. I love the way some of the Virago cafe projects turn out. That motor is just so aesthetically pleasing to the eye.
Can't you just use a battery and jumper cables directly on the starter terminals to turn the thing over with the compression gauge. The "switch" can just be your hand releasing the jumper cable clamp.
Can't you just use a battery and jumper cables directly on the starter terminals to turn the thing over with the compression gauge. The "switch" can just be your hand releasing the jumper cable clamp.
I finally got the bike stripped down to the engine. I was about to start to perform the compression test and the starter motor does not move. I disassembled the starter motor and it was filled with black crap. I do not want to put any money into this bike until i know it runs. Is there a way for me to clean the starter motor to make it work again? i have read the forum everyone is just talking about how bad the virago starter motors are and how to rewire them on a running bike. My problem is that it does not work when i connect straight to the battery.
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Compression Test a Fail.
so i just did a compression test. the front cylinder produced 45psi after i added oil it jumped to 75psi. the rear cylinder produced 90psi consistently. This is my first build and i have no experience working on engines. Does anyone have any advice or suggestion for next steps?. I live in knoxville TN if you are close by i am willing to pay to get the engine running properly.
so i just did a compression test. the front cylinder produced 45psi after i added oil it jumped to 75psi. the rear cylinder produced 90psi consistently. This is my first build and i have no experience working on engines. Does anyone have any advice or suggestion for next steps?. I live in knoxville TN if you are close by i am willing to pay to get the engine running properly.
you can do a simp-le okie leakdown test to see more clearly if it it valves or rings
you already oiled the rings so its more to hear the valves leaking leave a sparklplug out of 1 cylinder hence you are listening to the other
having the exhaust removed id best to observe and hear if the exhaust valve leakes
popping of the carbs or just wire the throttle wot and very gently prop open fully the slides
you can rotate the engine with a wrench on the crankshaft end
or shift it into top gear and rotate rear wheel
you cannot rotate the engine with the wheel in the lower gears
having an asistant do the rotating and hold your beer,is good, lets you here the hissing out either side
if the rings are leaking you will hear that hissing as well
very simple when the engine is coming up on comp both valves are fully closed and any valve leakage will be quite observable ,heard out the port or carb
but first adjust the valves ,no not totally needed , just make sure they have some clearance when the rocker arm is over the base circle any clearance is fine as long as it is not huge thats a bad sign and a small varience in valve clearance, has absolutely no effect on compression or the reading you will get
if the valves have a bunch of clearance thats usually an unhappy sign
keep going you must get it running first its completely idiotic not to
and or buy a running one
buy another one anyway in fact that is my number 2 suggestion hord them
the black gunk in the starter is quite normal just blow it out with comp air,not in your garage lol
98% of the time when a starter quits is because the carbon brushes have worn down so much that they are hanging up on their wire tail and then just skimming the comutater
real easy to deduce if this is the sitch
if so replace brushes and check comutater for being out of round spin it in your lathe or on v blocks and put your dial indicator on it
or just take it to the local generator/starter rebuilding shop ask them please would they check and or clean it up
they will have brushes too in fact they can "rebuild" the unit its no dif than any car starter
they can test the whole thing as well
but yeah get that turd running,get it out and ride it ,dont make the big mistake
you already oiled the rings so its more to hear the valves leaking leave a sparklplug out of 1 cylinder hence you are listening to the other
having the exhaust removed id best to observe and hear if the exhaust valve leakes
popping of the carbs or just wire the throttle wot and very gently prop open fully the slides
you can rotate the engine with a wrench on the crankshaft end
or shift it into top gear and rotate rear wheel
you cannot rotate the engine with the wheel in the lower gears
having an asistant do the rotating and hold your beer,is good, lets you here the hissing out either side
if the rings are leaking you will hear that hissing as well
very simple when the engine is coming up on comp both valves are fully closed and any valve leakage will be quite observable ,heard out the port or carb
but first adjust the valves ,no not totally needed , just make sure they have some clearance when the rocker arm is over the base circle any clearance is fine as long as it is not huge thats a bad sign and a small varience in valve clearance, has absolutely no effect on compression or the reading you will get
if the valves have a bunch of clearance thats usually an unhappy sign
keep going you must get it running first its completely idiotic not to
and or buy a running one
buy another one anyway in fact that is my number 2 suggestion hord them
the black gunk in the starter is quite normal just blow it out with comp air,not in your garage lol
98% of the time when a starter quits is because the carbon brushes have worn down so much that they are hanging up on their wire tail and then just skimming the comutater
real easy to deduce if this is the sitch
if so replace brushes and check comutater for being out of round spin it in your lathe or on v blocks and put your dial indicator on it
or just take it to the local generator/starter rebuilding shop ask them please would they check and or clean it up
they will have brushes too in fact they can "rebuild" the unit its no dif than any car starter
they can test the whole thing as well
but yeah get that turd running,get it out and ride it ,dont make the big mistake
I just checked and adjusted the valve clearance to the proper specs. After doing another compression test the rear cylinder was at 120 PSI the front cylinder was only 90 PSI. I hear a hissing noise coming from the front cylinder what should I be checking for to get the PSI higher?
Sent from my SM-G920V using DO THE TON mobile app
Sent from my SM-G920V using DO THE TON mobile app
Might be some carbon buildup on the valve seats, again if your lucky.
The Haynes manual calls for 135psi on each cylinder for the 920.
As Xb has said, doing a leakdown test will help to identify where the issue is and what needs to be done.
Sounds like you will need to take the head off. Not as scary as some people think. Just take pictures of everything, and I can't stress this enough, label every bolt. Zip bags work well.
Good luck.
Ohh and if you do have to the the head off look into the roller bearing upgrade for the cams.
The Haynes manual calls for 135psi on each cylinder for the 920.
As Xb has said, doing a leakdown test will help to identify where the issue is and what needs to be done.
Sounds like you will need to take the head off. Not as scary as some people think. Just take pictures of everything, and I can't stress this enough, label every bolt. Zip bags work well.
Good luck.
Ohh and if you do have to the the head off look into the roller bearing upgrade for the cams.
