Wiring harness from scratch

snmavridis

Gettin my life together. One bolt. At a time.
Protip: just buy sonreirs harness for the love of God.

I've laid out most of my wiring for the starting system. So far I've accounted for:

Ignition switch
RH controls
Subwiring harness
Starting switch
Coils
Points
Clutch switch

Why do I feel like I don't have enough grounding for the system? This is phase 1 which is just the starting system and some safeties. I'll be posting any questions on this thread to keep from posting too many threads.

Where I'm at
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What I'm working from:
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Whiskey, beer and Marlboros?


You have all the ingredients - why haven't you worked this out yet?


8)
 
Starting system sitting on the bike. I think that's plenty of wire. Just need to lay out the indicators, gauges, and lights. Then we test.

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Here's a question:
Why do I need to have the headlight cutoff when I press the electric start button?

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Not strictly necessary, but it can help if your battery is on the small side and your starter seems to struggle.
 
Take a look at a diagram for an early CB350. Maybe 1970 or so. You can copy that and use it on your 550 with the exception of the charging circuit. It should simplify things a little. Skip the parking lights and go with always-on tail light for an even easier job.
 
Brilliant. How can I go about testing my starting circuit to make sure it's all ready to go? Trial and error with inline fuses?
 
It shouldn't take too much.

Power wire into the solenoid, starter wire out of the solenoid and into the starter button. Starter button grounds against the handlebars. If the solenoid clicks when you press the button, you're good.
 
You could also use a Normally Closed relay to the lights, so that when the starter button is pressed, that relay opens and no power to the lights for as long as the button is pressed.
 
Both great suggestions. I'll see if I can get some updates for you guys this week.
 
Here's a schematic of what I tried at lunch today. Tried to click the solenoid, no beans. I'm not entirely familiar with the starting switch itself or how it's wired, so I'm going to assume it's not a closed circuit. Where am I going wrong?

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So looking at your diagram, I'm not seeing how the solenoid is getting power.

The two wires on the bottom: one needs power (from somewhere) and the other needs to be grounded (somehow).

Take another stab at it and let us know if you're still having issues.
 
Dumb question, starter magnetic switch isn't the solenoid? The SMS is connected directly to the battery, the clutch switch I'm assuming is just a fail safe to prevent the bike from kicking over when it's in gear, the button is connect to the Y/R wire and then the ground. I've left the starter motor disconnected since I'm not necessarily trying to get the bike running yet.

If I connected the starting motor while it's on the bike, would it damage the engine? Mind you, the coils and points aren't wired up yet.

Attached is my wiring diagram im working off of.


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your solenoid is normally open so connecting it to the starter should not set anything off. it uses switched power to close and set the starter motor off i.e. your starter button.

should the starting motor receive direct power, it will go off as it grounds itself to the motor.

the clutch switch is just a safety mechanism...pulling the lever in will enable continuity between the 2 ground wires and complete the circuit needed to start.
 
Saw the issue. Connected the button to the red power wire. Pushed the button and got lots of heat. funny how the bike can just drive me into my next "to do". onto my fuse box...
 
Yeah. Because the black goes to the ignition switch, which has a red going to the fuse box, which goes back into the solenoid.
 
the starter switch shouldn't be fed hot power.

your ignition switch should be the one getting red (hot) power to transfer it out to switched power it when it's turned from off to on/acc.

look at your harness. the solid black wires you'll find are switched power wires that will only become live once you turn the key. the solid red ones are hot and will have power regardless of what position the key is in.
 
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