Wiring harness from scratch

[snmavridis]

Wow I feel like an idiot. You're right. Ok. So then what have I missed to get the solenoid to kick off?

 

[vandito.cb]

Wow I feel like an idiot. You're right. Ok. So then what have I missed to get the solenoid to kick off?

power, via red/yellow from your starter button

ground, via green/red from your clutch switch

that will engage (close it) as to allow power to the starter so long as you're holding that button down.

also, red to the fuse box, red/white to the rectifier.

 

[snmavridis]

The clutch switch...

 

[vandito.cb]

yes. it should have 1 green wire running from it that grounds to the frame and 1 green and red that runs to the solenoid and the (edit) diode along with your neutral switch wire.

pulling it in ultimately grounds the solenoid.

it can be bypassed if you want.

 

[Sonreir]

SMS, solenoid. Same thing.

No damage to the bike if everything mechanical is hooked up correctly.

 

[snmavridis]

Sonreir, would you happen to have a schematic of the solenoid? I'm looking for one but I can't find it. That would clear up any of my questions regarding this silly magnetic switch.

I thought leaving the green red wire unplugged would bypass it. Do I need to ground that wire to get it to bypass?

 

[Sonreir]

Depends on how you have the starter button wired.

If the starter button is designed to ground out when you press it, then you need to connect the opposite solenoid wire to a power source.

Here are the two options:
Ground <- Starter Button <- Solenoid <- Power

or

Power -> Starter Button -> Solenoid -> Ground

 

[vandito.cb]

from your sig, you have a cb550f. make sure you're looking at a diagram for an F because it seems the regular 550 is wired a little differently.

 

[eyhonda]

Simpler wiring to have the ground switch. If you wire it powered, then you need two wires going to the start button as opposed to one. Also, you can wire the headlight with an on/off switch (thru a relay) so you can unpower it for starting. If you don't care about the HI position, use that for ON and the LOW position for OFF. I'll be re-wiring my cb175 as well just to get rid of the bullet connectors. I have a bin full of newer connectors, a harness and extra hand controls from a CBR900rr and Ducati.

 

[snmavridis]

Raun20 sent me a couple of texts last night and helped me understand what's going on inside the SMS. Realized I overread a previous comment regarding switched power to the button. Here's a diagram of what I'll be attempting tomorrow evening. Hopefully this will do it!

 

[Sonreir]

By starter switch, I assume you mean solenoid?

 

[snmavridis]

Yes sir

 

[Sonreir]

That should do it.

 

[snmavridis]

Woo hoo! I'll report back tomorrow

 

[snmavridis]

It worked! Now I have a functioning 12v switched lead to hookup the rest of my harness and move forward! I'll be addressing the Subwiring harness next and get that all ready to go.

 

[snmavridis]

Got the tachs lighting up but found that I'm not getting any voltage to 4/6 pins on my ignition switch oh well. I can work around it for now. My current issue is dealing with this kill switch. It's a push button kill switch that I plan to use to cut off power to the coils. Unfortunately following the diagram that came with the switch is proving to be a pain. I'm only getting 10v to the acc post but 12v to ground (it's got a built in led) and it doesnt actually function like a switch. Ie when it's hooked up, I constantly get 10v to the acc post.

Diagram that came with the switch:

My attempts:

Busted switch or am I doing it wrong?

 

[Sonreir]

Coils should go on the NO pole.

 

[snmavridis]

Even though there's a resistor in line for the led?

 

[Sonreir]

Yes.

Their diagram is wrong. I've used that switch before.

+ and C both go to a power wire (16 gauge minimum, 14 would be better).
NO goes to the white/black power wire for the coils.
- to ground and NC is not used in your application.

 

[snmavridis]

You the man sonreir. You the man.