XS650 Monoshock

mathil

Been Around the Block
So, I decided to create a build thread!

Mini Bio : My name is Bryan, I'm 24, and I build campers for a living in my family business. I used to work on my bike at home, but I moved to an apartment so now it sits in my family's shop. It's great having the bike at work though, because I get to look at it all day everyday while I work. I work a bit on it, get to a stage where I don't know what to do, and then let it bubble in my mind until the answer comes up. Engaging the peripheries of my mind, as it were. This is my first bike build (and I probably bit off way more than I can chew...).

So, we begin.


It started as your run of the mill 1980 XS650 SG. Super squishy shocks, big sofa seat, pitted chrome, BS38's for the carbs, and no guts nor glory. The skeleton was there though, and I picked up a running, turning, and half stopping bike for 900$ CAD. Thats a steal considering I live in the Greater Vancouver area and everyone seems to think their shit is worth millions. I didn't mind paying that much for a clean motor and a clean title.

So I took it apart, and I mean ALL THE WAY apart. Every part of the bike was in pieces. Don't worry, the pieces were labeled and stashed away in ziplock freezer bags, which were stashed away in giant Rubbermaid containers. Not a fastener was left unturned, and I was left with a bare frame, a gutted motor, and a whole lot of parts I'll probably never use...

So by this time I had made the move to the shop, and it was time to take a sawzall to the frame. FUN! I cut off the seat hoop, front neck gussets (I'll be changing the neck rake; I know, not very cafe racerish), and all the other tabs that I would'nt need, would need to be remade, or I just plain didn't like. While doing this I inspected the factory welds, and HOLY SHIT!. They're awful. I've seen some scary welding come up in build threads on some forums, but these guys at Yamaha must have had way too much sake before their shift. Welds in places they're holding nothing, massive undercut, less than adequate filling, etc etc. At least I can be sure they guy was running the welder hot enough...

So I snagged my buddy's Model 3 Bender, and bought a die set for some 1 1/8" tubing. Ordered 20' of .120 wall dom and it was off to the races!

Since I decided to do a monoshock build, a whole new swingarm was in order. My options were retrofitting a new arm, fixing the old arm, or building one from scratch. I didn't like the idea of a whole new arm, since most arms aren't very accomodating of a 21" wheel. Old arm sucked, plain and simple. So I built a new one. I waited around for Buchanan's to ship my rims and spokes, and laced them to some stock hubs I had sourced off of ebay and a forum. Ordered some avon venom's in a 90/90-21 for the front, and a 120/70-21 for the rear.

The pics will be kind of self explanatory on the swingarm front. I cut out the axle plates from the old arm, and cleaned them up. I then bent a bunch of tube and came up with what I have. There's still a couple short pieces needed to connect the top arms to the bottom arms, and I'll be adding a 1/8" plate gusset to the bottom hoop around where the shock mount is to tie everything together. Everything is tack welded atm, it will be finished with tig.

Here's some pics :
bikeproject011.jpg

bikeproject013.jpg

bikeproject009.jpg


The tubes going from the top of the boxed section to the backbone seemed to be the best way to tie everything back together and give some sort of a base for future building....we'll see.


So, at that point I needed a place to put my ass, so I put together a simple seat hoop. It's not parallel to the ground like they usually are, but I'm thinking I'm going to add a tube running from the backbone where the other tubes join to the top of the tube, in a plane parallel to the ground. That will put the forces from my fat ass in tension.


Seat tube, wheels on. Ignore the front end of the bike atm. Once I figure out the ride height I want I will rake the neck out to bring the fork tubes back down in the trees. This will both save me from having to buy new fork tubes, and it will kick the front tire out away from the motor to balance the bike more front to back. Might end up around 30-35 degrees.
bikeproject022.jpg



So, with a place (hopefully) sturdy enough to place my ass, I needed something cushy and fashionable to cover it up. I bought some cheap 3" insulating styrofoam from the local lumber yard, and went to town on it.

I did 2 versions, and I won't even show you the first. It was fucking awful. I didn't even think when making it. I took my time on this version, and drew it out in black sharpie on the rough block and let it bubble in my mind while I looked at it from all angles while I worked during the day. I stole curves from the tank, and the tank trim and pads to give it the feel that they belong together. I'm fairly happy with the tailsection part. In this picture the seat is just a squared off hunk, but it's being whittled and curved away a little every day. Once I have it more or less close I'll take the block off and add another 1 1/8" to the bottoms under the seat area so it covers the frame tubes there. The curve from the back will be a long sweeping one from the rearmost point to the lowermost point. Ignore the tank placement, it has since moved back 2", and up 1". I'll get new pics of the finished seat plug up soon.
bikeproject024.jpg


As it is, I'm not in love with it. I probably never will be though, its too hard to distance ones self from ones own work. I'm always open to constructive criticism or ideas though!


Progress trudges on. I'll update the thread as the bike progresses. Right now I'm dealing with ride height and suspension design. I think I'll bring the bike up another couple inches.
 
Well that's one heck of a 1st build thread post! Looking forward to seeing how your experiments go and the finished bike - looking great so far.
 
love how everything looks so light, then slap in the big 650.

really cool looking, love it. Keep the tires thin!
 
Very cool. I like it. Im not in love with the tail section either. I think with the stance and wheel and tire combo you have going on that you could lean more towards a boardtracker look. just my opinion. keep it up.
 
Makr said:
Nice!

Is it going to sit that low?

I think I'm going to raise it 2 more inches, to 7 inches clearance before rider sag is added. The roads in my area (Greater Vancouver) are good, so I don't have to worry TOO much about potholes.

Tailsection looks a bit better now...after the weekend when I'm back in the shop I'll take a few new pictures...
 
thompsonmx100 said:
Very cool. I like it. Im not in love with the tail section either. I think with the stance and wheel and tire combo you have going on that you could lean more towards a boardtracker look. just my opinion. keep it up.

I thought about building a true boardtracker, but decided I didn't want to do it this go around. Its borrowing the big, equal front and rear tires from the style, but the stock frame doesn't really lend itself to the underslung boardtrack tank look. If I get everything raked out, mocked and it looks like total shit I'll just redo it...It's just metal! :p
 
I can't see this build turning out like shit. You seem to be taking your time with it and are going in the same direction I plan to with my build. Can't wait to see the results. Did you do any CAD type work to figure out the rear suspension geometry and spring rates?
 
Sawbladz said:
I can't see this build turning out like shit. You seem to be taking your time with it and are going in the same direction I plan to with my build. Can't wait to see the results. Did you do any CAD type work to figure out the rear suspension geometry and spring rates?

No cad...planning as I go. I think my initial spring choice will be dictated by a simple (bike weight) + (my weight) divided by 2, times leverage ratio. Springs are 60$ from summit racing, so its not too expensive to experiment. My only concern right now is the high leverage ratio....does anybody have any knowledge about the drawbacks of such, other than a high spring rate being needed? I know the damping can suffer due to the shock velocity being lower, but I don't know if it will make a huge difference on a bike that is just street driven. It may be something I could revalve for as well?
 
So, I think I've decided to install a simple R1 style linkage in the bike....I probably have to.

Motion/leverage ratio is way too high right now...I'll be able to get it into reasonable (well, exactly what I want) ranges by installing a linkage. I have the dogbone and lever from the R1 shock I'm using, so maybe I can use those... Worse case scenario I fab up a new lever. Maybe I'll build various ratios into the lever and fab up an adjustable dogbone with heim joints....Who knows!!
 
The damper is matched to the spring, so I don't think it's a good idea going more than +/- 20% on the string rate. You can stiffen the effective wheel rate by pushing the lower damper mount toward the wheel. It looks like you have an inch to play with. That should be good for a 10% increase or so.

--Chris
 
I forgot to mention how cool it is you're going with 21s. I wanted to do it with my current project but decided against it. I'm curious though: what happens when your fork lowers hit the bottom of your triple tree at full bump? With only a couple inches of travel, is that even a concern?

--Thanks, Chris
 
About the shock mount going back; it's already as far back as it can go... The tires slipped back in the adjusters in the photos, but when the wheels all the way forward there is a half inch of clearance for tire swell, etc.

The front forks won't be sitting up in the trees, they'll be flush with the top like they should. With the absence of a front fender the wheel should have enough room to clear the bottom of the trees. If not I'll limit the travel.
 
So, here's a little update for the followers.

First order of business : The Yamaha R1 shock has a bearing on the bottom, and a solid rubber bushing on the top. Since both ends of my design pivot I needed to replace the bushing with a bearing. After spending a week sorting through catalogues, calling my local bearing supplier, and cussing out OEM manufacturers in general I finally found a bearing that would work. Its a SKF bearing, part number NKI 10/20. 22 mm OD, and a 10 MM ID. Machined outer race, and a machined inner ring. Should do the trick. I pressed it in the other day and it works like a charm! The only problem? They wanted 46$ for the bearing....Oh well. No other option really.

Then came the fun. I don't have the Tony Foale suspension design software, and I didn't feel like spending 90 pounds to buy it. I also didn't want to beg someone with it to help me, nor did I want to steal it. So what is a caveman to do? Take some of the hardboard scraps in his woodshop and make a working model!

I decided to use the OEM R1 solid link as well. It came with the shock (along with the triangles, but I'll be making new ones of those) and has good bearings in it. So I cut a rectangle of hardboard to a rough length, drilled holes where the center of the bearings are, and presto....model of the solid link.

I made a triangle by doing a whole lot of figuring. Measuring this, measuring that, looking where I should pivot it, making sure tire clears, yadda yadda yadda. Basic shape was laid out, and it has some holes in it to fuss with the finer details.

THE NUMBERS :

Shock length at full droop: 11 3/4"
Shock length at 5" of suspension travel: 9 3/8"
Shock travel before bumpstop starts : 1 7/8"

THE PICTURES :

Stock R1 Parts :
bikeproject028.jpg


Closeup of linkage at full droop and full compression :
bikeproject032.jpg

bikeproject034.jpg


Wide shot of bike at full droop and full compression :
bikeproject038.jpg

bikeproject036.jpg


So, What I have effectively engineered is a linkage that sets the motion ratio such that the shock travels its full distance and hits bumpstop slightly before my intended maximum travel of 5". Slightly before so that the bumpstop has time to compress and my tire doesn't rub on anything funny, like the seat bar.

Question for the smarty-pant's out there... Is there a way for me to keep this travel and re-use the R1 spring at its stock rate and have a normal ride? From my limited calculations, the spring rate would have to be higher to account for my bikes higher weight, and my higher weight. A stock XS650 is about 450lbs dry, and a stock R1 is about 375lbs dry. I'm also a big boy, at 6'5 and 220 lbs.

So, assuming 50/50 weight distribution on the wheels (i know, it probably works against me and loads the rear more) thats 450+220 = 670/2 = 335 lbs per wheel.

Motion/leverage ratio comes out to 11 3/4 - 9 3/8 = 2 3/8 shock travel per 5" of wheel travel, or a ratio of 2.10.

To keep 1" of sag at 335 lbs at the rear wheel would be 335 x (2.10x2.10) = 1,481 lb spring rate.....

Please tell me my calculations are off and missing something.....Help from the more knowledgeable and nuanced among us?
 
You're getting close. Just make sure you figure in your damper angle into the equation as well. On that note, you know that the rocker plate mount below the damper and compress the damper upward, right? The way you have it now, you're super loading the swing arm and not passing any of the loads to the frame.

--Chris
 
Back
Top Bottom