xxxtra picante...just bought a frickn trainwreck kz750

R

rich

Active Member
I'm picking up a kz750 on sat..it's ugly. No carbs- loom disconnected-sloppy black paint - no idea if the engine has compression, mismatched wheels, pipes disconnected- no battery-original points-someones fucked with the brakes
oh yeah ..ive got no mechanical skills


i need a plan- what do i do first..anyone got any ideas...real ones...seriously gotta love a project..her name is xxxtra picante
 

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<<oh yeah ..ive got no mechanical skills>>

Apparently you have no shortage of bad judgment, however. <G>

Ann Landers used to say, "Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment." You are all set to gain much experience with this acquisition.

Please don't tell me there is no title either...

You could get a complete bike for little more than what it will cost just to get a set of carburetors and a gasket set. I assume it was given to you for free. I sure hope you didn't pay any money for it. The best thing you can do with this bike, is to gain some mechanical experience tearing the bike down to it component parts, and sell those parts on eBay. That will get you enough money to buy a bike that you have some chance of actually getting running.
 
AlphaDog's got a point.

If you got if for free it wouldn't be bad for a parts bike. Spend $1000 to $1500 for a complete running bike with a title. Most of the time, the bikes that you can score for $500 end up needing another $1000 just to make it complete and running.
 
<<Most of the time, the bikes that you can score for $500 end up needing another $1000 just to make it complete and running.>>

That's what I tell people when they contact me looking for an under $1,000 bike. Example: I had a '94 Nighthawk 250 for sale. I took it in as a neglected bike that had been left outside for about 3 years. It DID run, but looked like crap. I reconditioned it, paint, polish, rebuild forks, repack wheel bearings, new cables...real typical stuff. I put it up for sale for $1,525. (Got it, too.)
http://alphadogchoppers.com/BikesForSale/Nighthawk/

A guy called when I had this bike advertised wanting to know if I had something for around $800. I told him that THIS bike was ready to ride. If he bought something for under $1,000, he would have to put more money into it. He ended up buying a Vento 250 for cheap. There was a reason it was cheap. It was a piece of shit, and I had to do $400 in repair to it immediately.
 
I've got two bikes that run...I need to know what you guys would do as a first step. I wouldn't have bought it if I wanted an instant ride, and if you are going to start somewhere this is the cheapest option..If I cant get it going I'll make my money back on scrap. I'm sensible enough not to waste my money and smart enough to know the challenges... my Dad just restored an Austin that he dug out from under a tree after 30 years...and really I reckon my unwired bike is gonna be a bit of fun
I'll sort it out and put up some photo's but advice would be great..thanks for the constructive comment from modified american.
 

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First I would check to see if the engine was seized, then if it had compression. If so take the bike down as far as it needs to be, to clean it up. Then start putting stuff back on. :)
 
4eyes said:
First I would check to see if the engine was seized, then if it had compression. If so take the bike down as far as it needs to be, to clean it up. Then start putting stuff back on. :)
Click to expand...

hmmm..thanks . Is it possible to check compression without electrics? Im guessing not..I have a manual on the way but am faced with a mess of disconnected wires- the bike itself seems to be in ok shape for a project
The tank is rusted to hell and back
the carb inlets are exposed so you can see the valves- I assume this is where an airbox goes
the back wheel needs replacing
Otherwise it seems ok..I just need to work out how to reconnect everything and then test

Is it possible to fire her up by connecting the battery directly to the engine somewhere?...coils? and spraying something in the carbs? I've got a bit of learning to do
 
Compression is checked by spinning the engine any way possible: e-start, kickstart, wrench on the end of the crank, etc.

Forget about trying to start the engine. If it isn't seized and all the other components are in good shape it will run. Try to get the crank to spin and make sure the transmission goes thru all the gears.
 
Big Rich said:
Compression is checked by spinning the engine any way possible: e-start, kickstart, wrench on the end of the crank, etc.

Forget about trying to start the engine. If it isn't seized and all the other components are in good shape it will run. Try to get the crank to spin and make sure the transmission goes thru all the gears.
Click to expand...
thanks
 
SHE BREATHES!
I hope that's a good thing..when I crank it around with a wrench she goes very smoothly and huffs and puffs at the carbies and the exhaust maybe? didn't pin point it.
I've got the tank being electrolyted in the shed as per someones post...the rust is just falling off- Ive disconnected the already mangled loom and labeled all the connections
this week the wheels will come off.




Could someone tell me..To measure compression what do I need to seal off? anything? The exhaust is off and the Carb valves are showing..will this stop compression being achieved? and how do I get photos up here?
 
Do you have a compression tester? If not, you can get one as a "rental" at some auto parts stores. Screw it into the spark plug hole and usually you need to hold the throttle open. In your case however, just spin the crank quite a few times.

There is a "how to" guide that Loco Leon posted in the show & shine section along with one in the member introduction section.
 
thanks big rich and everyone else..im making progress- got 150 compression on two opposing cylinders by pushing it up the driveway fifty times and adding oil to the sparks


dont need to go the gym tonight and the neighbours, think i'm nuts


the other two cylinders are an issue because the rear wheel has started to lock up in first and i cant find 2345..so cant roll it down the hill
im thinking


p.s after some research I'm thinking the clutch plates are sticking from sitting too long- considering there is no clutch cable keeping the clutch 'off', im gonna bodge unstick the plates to get compression readings- im guessing wd40 should unstick them and there's no tension to lock em up again





the pistons have seized
or
more likely ...that the shifter seized or has gone out of wack


the rear wheel locks entirely but goes into both neutral and first with minimal jiggling Someone says that kawas dont go into second unless moving but i've tried walking and changing the gear as I go (that was fun) and it just locked


Since I don't have a manual im stuck again...hopefully it will arrive soon.
Id add a photo but all that would be in it is the engine casing...did I mention there is no clutch cable and that the current rear wheel is off a 250 thanks to the guy who had it before me...
i get very little compression hand cranking and break my arm everytime so tha'ts not working
Im actually quite happy with 150 I keep reading that 100 is the bare minimum - is this right for a 750...sounds ok
 
lol..wet clutch..yeah Im mad..but stubborn at least I'll entertain


anyone know any alternatives to jammed clutch plates before i put new ones in?
 
No such thing as "jammed clutch plates."
Sometimes they stick to one another, but they will break loose.

What has me curious, didn't you say the clutch cable is broken? How are you disengaging the clutch without a clutch cable?
 
The clutch probably just needs to be taken apart. Maybe scuff up the plates. I think that bike would have a wet clutch like all it's Japanese buddies. If there was shit or little to no oil plates can be stuck together. Or maybe it's just a crappy push mechanism that pushes the basket.

You need to pretty much get a lot of time, patience, and a shop manual and just take that thing apart piece by piece, problem by problem. That way you learn the machine, some basic mechanics, and have the right to say its yours once it fires up
 
he stoll got to be within his budget though :)


AlphaDogChoppers said:
<<Most of the time, the bikes that you can score for $500 end up needing another $1000 just to make it complete and running.>>

That's what I tell people when they contact me looking for an under $1,000 bike. Example: I had a '94 Nighthawk 250 for sale. I took it in as a neglected bike that had been left outside for about 3 years. It DID run, but looked like crap. I reconditioned it, paint, polish, rebuild forks, repack wheel bearings, new cables...real typical stuff. I put it up for sale for $1,525. (Got it, too.)
http://alphadogchoppers.com/BikesForSale/Nighthawk/

A guy called when I had this bike advertised wanting to know if I had something for around $800. I told him that THIS bike was ready to ride. If he bought something for under $1,000, he would have to put more money into it. He ended up buying a Vento 250 for cheap. There was a reason it was cheap. It was a piece of shit, and I had to do $400 in repair to it immediately.
Click to expand...
 
Rich, you sooooo need a good mentor. The manual will help tons, but having someone who has been there and done that makes a huge difference.

Surely there is a fellow DTTer in Melbourne.
 
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