xxxtra picante...just bought a frickn trainwreck kz750

Good points to add. I figured he'd go new with seals, but for testing cleaning is what I do first to see if a new caliper is needed/new pistons (I always buy new just didn't say it sorry about that Rich :-\)

As for the brake fluid as a lubricant, I've never had a problem on any bike i've ever owned. BUT that doesn't mean it's the correct way. Will look into the special silicone grease for caliper stuff. Yet another good point.
 
The cool thing about the silicone grease is that it protects the outside of the piston from corrosion, and makes it easy to clean when you change pads.

I have been on a bender lately with rebuilding calipers after bead-blasting and powdercoating them. Sometimes I polish them then use clear powdercoat, sometimes I use colored powdercoat.
 
Ok..didn't take too long.lol..Ive managed to get her started. Here I was imagining a nice quiet burble and she kicked into life like a banshee from hell with the idle adjuster at max and no exhaust pipes...I can't hear a frickn thing except for ringing and Im sure going from nothing to flat out after five years without starting didn't do any good at all.
I also realised that I might want to reconnect the killswitch and put on the pipes before trying that again...fuck...I was pulling out wires left right and centre just to get it to shut up...careful what you wish for...
The plan now is
get the old pipes back on until I can get some new ones- removing four broken bolts.
treat the tank with sealer, cleaner etc
hook her up
rebuild the carbs? Fuck I don't know ...they were sure working fine just then
should I be replacing any seals- etc so she doesn't seize?
fuck my ears hurt
 
You started the bike with no pipes at all?
Well, here's hoping all the valves stayed straight :-\
 
Everybody says shit like that...damm...add a little detail for me..this is a learning project

ahh actually don't worry..I looked it up. I don't think it was running enough to heat up at all, maybe 15 seconds max.. and it seems like the rapid cool down is what warps them. I wasn't actually expecting it to start- ideally I would have killed it immediately but the throttle was jammed on full, by a stray bolt and I'd disconnected the kill switch. live and learn
I'm more worried about the fact that its been sitting for years and then fired up on maximum revs from cold...definitely a good chance of damaging something...still a good thing overall- tell me you're not happy when a bike screams into life the first time (I'll try for less screaming next time)
 
Nah I stared angrily at it till it gave in and started.
It starts every time now- although I've got to get the old pipes back on till I get some new ones- Moto something- they're designed to fit and Im not to worried about sports performance on this beast.

As soon as I've got some time this is the order of operation

Im going to make the electrics more permanent- move them under the seat
get the regulator rectifier running
reline the tank- find a magnet to get whatevers rattling in there out and kill the inch thick rust

take off the carbs- give em a temporary clean and fit the air box
find some new bolts for the pipes and have a look into getting the two sheared bolts out- I just snapped the extractor bit so this is going to be a bitch

find some instruments and fit them - any advice on this would be good as I've no clue and only an ignition circuit at the moment

once this is all done I've everything but wheels and brakes and clutch but these can wait till she's running

anyway all talk makes jack a dull boy - I'll post when I've done something ;D
 
So pipes are practically back on at least enough for testing purposes..the frickn mounting bolt is grabbing as I work it in, an I don't want to strip the threads- i need one of those threading tools to get rid of the burrs. there is also two broken bolts still... both sheared off and the extractor bit snapped in place - I'm thinking i might try to weld half a bolt back on to the sheared one so I can get purchase....but theres no hurry for the moment
on a good note she sounds more healthy with pipes- tomorrow I'll start the tank cleaning process properly so I can get a permanent fuel supply, i bought a tank cleaning /relining kit with three liquids but i probably need a magnet first to get out whatevers rattling in there... maybe theres a cheap one I can find
this weekend I'll do the electrics as it takes forever to do right- and i'll take some photo's

so pipes- half done
electrics this weekend
tank- start tomorrow
carbs later this week
 
Post some pics of your broken exhaust studs as well. Is there any of the broken bolt sticking out or is it broken off flush with the hole?
 
Thanks John, Bruno
Having electrics gave me a bit of much needed progress so Im full steam ahead again
- Basically had to do a crash course in electrons with the emphasis on crash.
John there's heaps- i.e 7-8cm's sticking out- I drilled it then inserted the extractor bit - then snapped it without it moving an inch- I'll sort some photos this weekend Im flat out out at work- I chem washed the tank tonight - ready for rust removal but the bottle says remove all loose rust- I stuck a pressure water gun in it- but I can hear the rust swishing up and down still- way too much sludge and crap- theres also a frickn bolt or loose fuel sensor in there that won't come out for love and money- Ive used a magnet on a stick to no avail. Fuckn fuck fuck- seriously reluctant to drop a handful of bolts in there and my weldings not good enough to cut it open- On friday night Ive got a date with the bitch of a thing and we're going to have a serious talk about this behaviour.
Photo's friday.
 
If you DO put the bolts in there....find a stocking or similar "bag" or "net" to hold the bolts in, then you just pull the whole thing back out with all the bolts in it. Can't remember what others have used, but thats the best way to not have to dig out tons of bolts....

Up here we have CLR (calcium Lyme (lime?) Rust) remover that many people swear by. Just an added thought...haha I'll :-X now.
 
If you have bolt sticking out there are extractor tools that you tap onto the broken stud then just take a wrench and turn it out. If you have a broken extractor in the bolt already something like that may be your best bet.
 
sorry about the lack of photo's I'll go back and insert them shortly- I've lost the camera battery charger
Got the bolts out with Boltgrip or some such thing- came straight out without any issues- fits around the bolt. legendary. Their expensive but reusable but don't try to get the bolts back off the toothed extractor with vicegrips. Go the bench vice and turn the other way and it saves endless time.
Bolt grip extractors 55 bucks australian
bench vice 30 dollars straight from china
welded a metal tray for the electricity under the seat but the welding rods were burning to hot so I need to get something a little tamer so I don't burn holes in everything- the one thing I can do on this build is weld. Tools Tools Tools.
Carbs have been off and back on again- and at some point will come off again for cleaning- Im going to see if I can get it to run at idle

Tank has been chemwashed and etched but is now leaking- I'll line it with those nasty lining chemicals once I get the time and some more heavy duty gloves
Pipes are on
The tubes from the carbs to the air box are impossible to get on- hot water is not enough for 30 year old rubber- I'll keep trying but am looking at buying some kind of rubber piping of the right diameter and simply encasing the current connections and using a pipe shackle to tighten them on

the rear set on the brake side needs a heel rest - the existing brake pedal is on some ridiculous long stalk - Im dubious about keeping it...got paid today so might go on ebay tonight
thnx all
 
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