Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

teazer

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Ryan Stecken said:
I gave the carbs a little clean out to,the little air drilling of the right carb was blocked.
Ryan,, Is that head cracked in the second picture or is that just an optical illusion?
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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Hey guys!

i´m running a 2 stroke oil i bought a oldtimer market,i will look up what kind of oil it is.
what should i look out for when isnpecting the rings?

yes this is a hair crack...:-( how something like that happen?should i be worried?is it repairable?
it actually looks mare like a scratch,there is no visible crack on the other side of the head (threads of plug).
i´ll post pics when i´m on my computer again!
 

Tune-A-Fish

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As for the rings, I would look for a chip or anything causing the scratched walls, the crack is strange, you could get it magnafluxed to see if it can be repaired, any decent weld shop can help with that, but probably was from heat and cooling to fast or pinging really hard, you don't run corn gas do you? E fuel is probably not a good idea for the old 2 Smokers.

Teazer may shed light on the cracks at the top of the chamber as something completely different... Interesting spot to crack.
 

jpmobius

where does this go?
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Yep - that is an unusual crack in my experience. Oil choice is no joke. Looks like some pretty excessive coking buildup unless you have vastly more miles than it sounds. Looks castor based maybe? No good at all on a street bike unless you like taking your engine apart after every ride to clean it. I use plain old Yamalube mostly - economical and very clean.
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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Hey guys!as for the gas i'm using the standard 95 octane unleaded gasoline we have in austria (we also have 98 octane but i heard to use this is just a waste of money.
For the burning oil i bought an oil from a specialised oil distributor in austria you see in the pic.
It says 2 stroke oil,part synthetic.
Specification: API TC

For the gearing oil i use:Motul 10W30 Motorcycle Gear Oil

 

Tune-A-Fish

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I would see what Motul 2T oils are available for "burn oils" also, I have no idea what Yamaha or your injection system has for mix ratio so the only thing you can do is try oils and watch the baffles for drool, all that unburnt oil is plugging up the air flow through the motor (air pump) and as soon as you dial in the consumption you should see less mess and better perf, maybe viscosity is key, I just don't know, but it has to burn. If it were mine I would covertly disconnect the injection system and go premix unless you plan to ride more than a tank at a time and even then I used to keep oil in a Ziploc freezer bags, pump a shot of gas in and shake it up then dump it in the tank with the gas pumping slowly, you can fit a dozen measured bags in the cowl tucked inside a cut off oil bottle in case one should leak.
 

Tune-A-Fish

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If you ever do go premix, you will need to fatten the mains some... again viscosity will play a role here.
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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So i´ve just ran into a little annoying problem i need to find a solution for:

The carbs of the RD do never leak when i ride it,even when parked for 1-2 days they keep the gasoline pretty well.
But when i park the bike for more then a few days it slighlty drips...which sucks cuz i park the bike indoors in my fathers workshop :D.
the carbs got pretty rebuild and cleaned thoroughly.
i only see these options:

-draining the float bowls before i park it:either with the drain screw or "riding" it empty by closing the petcock and waiting it to get empty.-->it takes YEARS in idling to clear the bowls,draining it by riding it empty is pretty risky in city traffic...
-somehow blocking the overflow hoses temporarily when i park it.

another guess of mine is that the petcock is leaking...although i replaced the oring that seals some weeks ago...it alsoways seem the drip a little bit...
 

Tune-A-Fish

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The only way the bowls drip is from over fill so if the floats are set correctly the needle(s) may be sweating just enough to drool on the floor and yep! if that is what's happening... off on the petcock is not really off then is it ;) I would set out for an NOS petcock or a nicer replacement and hold onto the original for a keepsake to pass on. :eek:
 

Tune-A-Fish

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I can say with some certainty these guys at HVC do a decent job, you could just call direct and get what you need also.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-RD-RD200-Petcock-RD200-Fuel-tank-Valve-360-24500-00-00-/400277728731?hash=item5d32696ddb&vxp=mtr
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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thanks for your advice!i will look out for a good replacement!the bike usually rests on the side stand so maybe thats an issue too since the left bowl will be easier to overflow then.

i will need a 2 way petcock,i have a shop in vienna who sells all kidn of stuff,icluding petcocks in different dimensions.
 

jpmobius

where does this go?
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Ryan Stecken said:
as for the gas i'm using the standard 95 octane unleaded gasoline we have in austria (we also have 98 octane but i heard to use this is just a waste of money.
Possibly the high Octane rating IS of value. Just FYI, octane is not a material, it is a theoretical rating based on the percentage of iso-octane that produces comparable results to the sample fuel in a laboratory test engine. For our purposes, it is meaningful for how resistant the fuel is to enabling detonation (spark knock). Two strokes are rather prone to this problem. Past that, it is absolutely true that high octane fuel does not create more power on its own, so if your engine does not need it, it is in fact a complete waste of money. Conversely, if it does need it because of its higher state of tune, it really does need it if only for self preservation. 93 is generally as high as is commonly available where I live, and my Rd's are definitely afflicted by the low rating.

Sounds like your petcock is leaking. My Rd's always drip fuel if the tap is on, but not a drop if turned off. I commonly run the bowls dry - and it does take a while - but you don't have to empty the bowls, just turn off the gas a hundred meters or so before you come in and park. If the petcock does not leak, you will not have drips - even on the side stand. I keep one of my bikes inside my house, and there is not even a whiff of fuel odor. Pingel makes an excellent tap for your tank though it is very expensive. Their off the shelf for your bike application has fuel outlets that are too large and makes fuel lines tricky to match your carbs, but they will make you one with the correct size for a small extra charge. Like I said, expensive, but it is a very high quality part and worth it in that regard.
http://www.pingelonline.com/
 

Tune-A-Fish

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jpmobius said:
not even a whiff of fuel odor
If it were race fuel this would be no problem for me... U-4 with a hint of ester could be a perfume IMO or a nice V-P T-2 after shave :eek:
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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thanks for the insight!

have you guys ever performed a hydraulic clutch conversion on the RD?found an article about this:

http://www.aircooledrdclub.com/clutch.html
 

Tune-A-Fish

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Ryan Stecken said:
thanks for the insight!

have you guys ever performed a hydraulic clutch conversion on the RD?found an article about this:

http://www.aircooledrdclub.com/clutch.html
Hydro clutch would be great for racing, but you could get a nice lever and perch with quick adjuster like the one in the picture and along with a fresh cable, you could have almost the same pull feel without loosing that "feeling" of the shutters and obvious end of life warning sign :eek:
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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Tune-A-Fish said:
Hydro clutch would be great for racing, but you could get a nice lever and perch with quick adjuster like the one in the picture and along with a fresh cable, you could have almost the same pull feel without loosing that "feeling" of the shutters and obvious end of life warning sign :eek:
what do you mean by shutters and end of lofe warning sign :)?
 

Tune-A-Fish

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You know when a clutch gets down to the EOL and slips a little, builds up some glaze and then the lever get the jitters... With that perch and lever setup you can quick adjust for hot and cold running so you are in the meat all the time like a hydro :eek:
 

der_nanno

Faster!
Ryan Stecken said:
thanks for the insight!

have you guys ever performed a hydraulic clutch conversion on the RD?found an article about this:

http://www.aircooledrdclub.com/clutch.html
About as useful as t*ts on a hedgehog. Just route your cable properly and/or fit a new one. Furthermore, lube up the clutch lever and bush it out at the pivot, if it is worn. You'll be amazed...

Cheers,
Greg-san
 

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