Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

2_DONE_THE_TON

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Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

What you guys think of gas stabilizers?
I used this stuff a few times...mixes 1:1000 and says that it slightly rises the octane (i run 95) cleans carbs and keeps rust out of tank.
Go or no go?
The aim for me is mainly keeping the tiny air bores in my carb clean.i already once had a blocked one.
Tank is clean and lined.
Sorry the bottle is german :)
 

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jpmobius

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I only use fuel stabilizers when I know I am going put something in storage for a while, or at least not use it for a long time. (I usually forget though and pay the consequences!) They definitely work, but I have never used them for daily use. I don't use fuel filters on the bikes either and can truthfully say I have never had a problem. That may seem pretty careless, but conversely I tend to ADD fuel filtering on fuel injected engines as injectors are a terrible pain to clean and suffer massively with the most microscopic bit of foreign matter. I do keep my air cleaners in good condition and not leaking. Most of the time I run the fuel out of my carbs on the bikes which I am sure greatly helps forestall potential problems.
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

My father runs this stuff since years on his flh 1200 harley and NEVER had to clean his carbs since then....maybe his carbs are not so easily blocked.
Interestingly i have the feeling that when i run the motor with this stuff,which smells terrible it loses a bit of perfomance....
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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i´m about to tackle the gas leaking issue.

Question A:as i already said the bike slighlty leaks fuel (little droplets).as you guys said, it is possible that the petcock leaks,but is it also possible that a slight wear of the brass tang where the needle touches could cause the needle not to close entirely (mobius posted this already earlier in one my threads)?
i think i will give it a go and slighlty sand the tang with 400 then 600 grit smooth if theres wear.

Question B:how do i go about preparing K+N filters for use,do i need to oil them?i read somewhere then i can also fog some diesel on them to prepare them...

thanks in advance!
 

Tune-A-Fish

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K$N has a filter cleaning kit and it includes oil. I would wash it by soaking it in soapy water never allowing the inside (clean side) to enter the water and then rinse from the back side (clean side) only, allow to dry and fog with spray filter oil very lightly
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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thanks tune!

but how do you treat a frehsly bought K+N,do you oil it before use?i mean that oil is effin expensive!
 

davedogg

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I wanna say the K&N filter is already oiled or doesn't have to be out of the box. The Uni foam filters need to be oiled.
 

Tune-A-Fish

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Ryan Stecken said:
thanks tune!

but how do you treat a frehsly bought K+N,do you oil it before use?i mean that oil is effin expensive!
Already treated with K$N filter oil Ryan. You can put a chunk of paper towel pushed lightly against the filter material and let it sit for a hour to be sure... the oil should show up on the paper slightly (look close) as a yellowish oil color stain.
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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Thanks tune a!

Good news guys,my birthday presents this august will be very RD centered :) dg pipes, carb parts,y boot.

The dg's are the reasonable priced pipes i could get for now.lets see what they can do.
Cant wait to hear these pipes,i have to be really careful the police in austria is really a**** about loud pipes.
Do you guys have experience with the dg pipes?how loud are they and will they bring me some horsepower(of course together with some carb work)?

Gonna post pics of my RD 350 parts too,i think the PO did some head work,sqish band and the burning room loom modified.
 

davedogg

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I have experience with DG's on my modded 350 and my bone stock 400. They aren't bad, there are just better pipes out there. DG's are have a nice sound. Some people think they are too loud but they are not louder than any other chambers for RD's that I've heard. I ran with DG's on my stock 400 for about a year. I just recently put the stock chambers back on and love the power that they bring down low. You'll hit the powerband around 5.5k rpm with the DG. I don't think I'll ever put the DG's on the 400 again. But my 400 is my passenger bike.

If you really want to get performance from pipes. I would get a pair of Spec II's. Or since you are in Europe a pair of Higgspeed pipes from England.
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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davedogg said:
I have experience with DG's on my modded 350 and my bone stock 400. They aren't bad, there are just better pipes out there. DG's are have a nice sound. Some people think they are too loud but they are not louder than any other chambers for RD's that I've heard. I ran with DG's on my stock 400 for about a year. I just recently put the stock chambers back on and love the power that they bring down low. You'll hit the powerband around 5.5k rpm with the DG. I don't think I'll ever put the DG's on the 400 again. But my 400 is my passenger bike.

If you really want to get performance from pipes. I would get a pair of Spec II's. Or since you are in Europe a pair of Higgspeed pipes from England.

thanks davedogg!
the higgspeeds are crazy expensive.since this is my daily driver i dont look for crazy power just a mild hp increase.
on the other hand,when i look at the mods i will do on my stock RD it will be enough power for me.DG chambers,carb mod,350 conversion with sqish mod and bigger reeds.
how long does the powerband "last" with the dg´s?
i guess the 250 motor will max out at 9.000 rpm,which i never hit till now.
 

Tune-A-Fish

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The DG off the shelf chambers (for the most part) are tuned to track perf... if you want a more street chamber you should call them or find a way to communicate what you want, not sure if they shelf different chambers but may build to order something. You will love the noise but soon you will be looking for the power off the bottom and for that the stock pipes are perfect, also remember... no expansion chamber will work well without a specific purpose built silencer with the correct packing.

Mobius and Teaser have the most recent stuff on this... That I've read here any way, maybe get with them and see if you have options you haven't explored.
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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Tune-A-Fish said:
The DG off the shelf chambers (for the most part) are tuned to track perf... if you want a more street chamber you should call them or find a way to communicate what you want, not sure if they shelf different chambers but may build to order something. You will love the noise but soon you will be looking for the power off the bottom and for that the stock pipes are perfect, also remember... no expansion chamber will work well without a specific purpose built silencer with the correct packing.

Mobius and Teaser have the most recent stuff on this... That I've read here any way, maybe get with them and see if you have options you haven't explored.
thanks tune for chiming in!

i must say the stock chrome pipes have zero down torque, read about a stinger mod that would help with that but i will have the chrome ones stock so i can go back to stock anytime for MOT.
as for the noise of the DG i heard that there is also a stinger mod,which takes out the noise a little bit.i dont care for noise,i want performance.
 

teazer

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DG pipes are far from top of the line state of the art, but they work well and are well priced. Jim Lomas does some really nice pipes as do others. I have Spec 11s on my RZ and they make nice power and are reasonably quiet with the alloy muffler shells.

We had a pair of DGs on a 400 years ago and they were fine. Not too loud.

For the street (in the US) I would use DGs without hesitation on a budget performance build. They work well on the street and are not a race pipe like some of the others. If I had a larger budget I would go with Spec11 and if money were no object I would use a set from Lomas.

Sound is subjective and I am not a big fan of the pop corn popping sound that Higgs pipes make. Others like it, but it could irritate a cop and we don't need that.
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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teazer said:
DG pipes are far from top of the line state of the art, but they work well and are well priced. Jim Lomas does some really nice pipes as do others. I have Spec 11s on my RZ and they make nice power and are reasonably quiet with the alloy muffler shells.

We had a pair of DGs on a 400 years ago and they were fine. Not too loud.

For the street (in the US) I would use DGs without hesitation on a budget performance build. They work well on the street and are not a race pipe like some of the others. If I had a larger budget I would go with Spec11 and if money were no object I would use a set from Lomas.

Sound is subjective and I am not a big fan of the pop corn popping sound that Higgs pipes make. Others like it, but it could irritate a cop and we don't need that.
Thanks teazer!

I searched a long time and after checking the prices of the liquid cooled exhausts of the 31k and 1wwt yamaha rd models,they are sold for approx 150-350 euros in austria depending on the condition,i thought the DGs would be the best bet for the money.
Theres a guy from germany who made a website about tuning his RD,he bought the lomas exhaust (800 euros).
His RD crank was crushed by the sheer rpms...the lead weights got loose...
So when i would roll with the lomas exhaust i would spend not only alot on the exhaust but i would need to get my cranked checked and reworked...i guess.
I have the luck that i have the last aircooled model with the crank with no lead weights (very similar to the LC crank).

However theres a guy in the UK called Mike Abbey he makes custom exhausts for little money.shipping the exhausts from the UK would be again plus exhaust around 350 euros...
 

jpmobius

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I also suggest you stick with the DGs. ALL pipes I have used (including the DG's) do two things. The spike in the power curve happens at a higher rpm, and the max rpm's the engine turns is also increased. Some pipes feel a lot stronger than they are because of a reduction in power before the spike. The DG's are a bit unattractive to my eye, but they work ok without overdoing it. I personally have not worked wit JL pipes, but they are certainly beautifully made, and are great performers by all accounts. I did just spend a lot of time with some Moto Carerra's, And like most pipes the expense is not so much the additional price of the pipes, but the cost of building a crank that will last reasonably long on the street. The early cranks have all manner of trouble with high rpm, the so called balancing weights not the least. I have 2 engines sitting here out of my absolutely stock (except for heads and a careful assembly) personal street bike that now have crankshafts too wide for their cases due to excessive rpm.
I would do the head work first if I was on a budget. Put o rings in them. The best way is to machine the outside of the sealing surface on the head so it fits down precisely inside the recess in the cylinder where the copper gasket used to go. That way the head will be located precisely in the center of the cylinder and you do not need to pin the heads in place. This works only on the early 250's and 350's here in the US, the 400's use different gaskets. I don't know how your 250's heads are made - I presume like the 400. Then get the pipes and commit to not over-revving!. I think you will find very little value in fooling around with the reed blocks on your 250, though you might try some YZ125 reeds. If you go to the 350 barrels there is more utility.
 

2_DONE_THE_TON

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hey mobius!

thank you!i´m like a sponge and try to suck up as much wisdom as i can.

the first pic shows the 250 gasket

the rd 350 cylinder has a recess for a rong formed copper gasket.

note this are not my cylinders!

do you have pics of the o ring mod you wrote about?would you care to share?
 

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