1980 GL1100 "Orange Crush" build
- Thread starter CrashDown
- Start date
MotorbikeBruno
Over 1,000 Posts
Those parts look great man. Keep at it. Find a new tank yet?
Updates!
The new tank from Pony Ruiz came in on friday.... With just about No rust inside. A quick rinse with sem rustmort and apple cider vinegar to clean the residual crusty stuff and a triple rinse with acetone and she was ready for satin black.
Figuring out the routing of the harness...
Does that small harness branch off to the right side of the bike like in this pic?
And what the heck do these go to??
Gas tank and battery box in
getting ready to get the centerstand in, lifting the swingarm with the use of a converse Chuck taylor hitop shoelace... Thats how I roll.
Gotta paint the brackets for the coils, they look ugly.
brackets...
This was not fun to install, but it's in.
Okay, am i missing something? is there supposed to be a stop to keep the centerstand from hitting the swingarm when in the stowed position?
And what does this plug go to??
rear brake bracket assembled.
Before I cleaned up for the day on saturday.
Sence im still waiting on my hagon dealer to get my rear suspension, and gonna have the wheels powdercoated this week, it's time to start on the motor!
Cooling pipes removed. Do they make those rubber seals the cooling pipes fit into on the ends that bolt to the motor?
Gonna have to drill and retap this motormount bolt out...
valvecovers off, the rocker arms and valvesprings are really clean...
Starter is toast, new one and starter solenoid have been ordered today, and should be here wednesday
I wanna get rid of the mechanical fuel pump and swap to an electric pump, havent been able to find any documentation on others doing this swap, anyone know of any good sources??
This is the fuel pump i wanna use, it's 2-4psi off a carburated Ferrari GTB.... would it work on our carbs??
Gasket required for stator replacement has been ordered as well and should be here wednesday.
Checked the belt tension, a little slack
Checked the tensioners, they turned nice and smooth, no play or grinding noise, so i readjusted the tensionsers and the belts are nice and tight now, no odd wear marks, cracks, or other damage.
Just sprayed some random areas with simple green and wiped off with a rag, should clean up nicely for paint.
How she lookd on the bench after clean up for the day..
The new tank from Pony Ruiz came in on friday.... With just about No rust inside. A quick rinse with sem rustmort and apple cider vinegar to clean the residual crusty stuff and a triple rinse with acetone and she was ready for satin black.
Figuring out the routing of the harness...
Does that small harness branch off to the right side of the bike like in this pic?
And what the heck do these go to??
Gas tank and battery box in
getting ready to get the centerstand in, lifting the swingarm with the use of a converse Chuck taylor hitop shoelace... Thats how I roll.
Gotta paint the brackets for the coils, they look ugly.
brackets...
This was not fun to install, but it's in.
Okay, am i missing something? is there supposed to be a stop to keep the centerstand from hitting the swingarm when in the stowed position?
And what does this plug go to??
rear brake bracket assembled.
Before I cleaned up for the day on saturday.
Sence im still waiting on my hagon dealer to get my rear suspension, and gonna have the wheels powdercoated this week, it's time to start on the motor!
Cooling pipes removed. Do they make those rubber seals the cooling pipes fit into on the ends that bolt to the motor?
Gonna have to drill and retap this motormount bolt out...
valvecovers off, the rocker arms and valvesprings are really clean...
Starter is toast, new one and starter solenoid have been ordered today, and should be here wednesday
I wanna get rid of the mechanical fuel pump and swap to an electric pump, havent been able to find any documentation on others doing this swap, anyone know of any good sources??
This is the fuel pump i wanna use, it's 2-4psi off a carburated Ferrari GTB.... would it work on our carbs??
Gasket required for stator replacement has been ordered as well and should be here wednesday.
Checked the belt tension, a little slack
Checked the tensioners, they turned nice and smooth, no play or grinding noise, so i readjusted the tensionsers and the belts are nice and tight now, no odd wear marks, cracks, or other damage.
Just sprayed some random areas with simple green and wiped off with a rag, should clean up nicely for paint.
How she lookd on the bench after clean up for the day..
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
Ok, I'll try to help. Check Randaaks for the fuel pump, he makes one, might give you ideas. The belts. Just change them, it is so much easier now than when the motor is in the bike and you have to pull the rad etc. 4-5 years is the max life, do you know how old those ones are? Unless you already did, then never mind.
CrashDown said:Updates!
The new tank from Pony Ruiz came in on friday.... With just about No rust inside. A quick rinse with sem rustmort and apple cider vinegar to clean the residual crusty stuff and a triple rinse with acetone and she was ready for satin black.
Figuring out the routing of the harness...
Does that small harness branch off to the right side of the bike like in this pic?
And what the heck do these go to?? One is the rear brake light switch, needs a spring the other wire I can't remember but I'll look tonight at my wing and tell you.
Gas tank and battery box in
getting ready to get the centerstand in, lifting the swingarm with the use of a converse Chuck taylor hitop shoelace... Thats how I roll.
Gotta paint the brackets for the coils, they look ugly.
brackets...
This was not fun to install, but it's in.
Okay, am i missing something? is there supposed to be a stop to keep the centerstand from hitting the swingarm when in the stowed position? I think there is a rubber block on the exaust hanger that keeps centre stand off the swinger.
And what does this plug go to?? I'll look at that one too, if it is teal orange it might be tailight signals sub harness.
rear brake bracket assembled.
Before I cleaned up for the day on saturday.
Sence im still waiting on my hagon dealer to get my rear suspension, and gonna have the wheels powdercoated this week, it's time to start on the motor!
Cooling pipes removed. Do they make those rubber seals the cooling pipes fit into on the ends that bolt to the motor?
Gonna have to drill and retap this motormount bolt out...
valvecovers off, the rocker arms and valvesprings are really clean...
Starter is toast, new one and starter solenoid have been ordered today, and should be here wednesday
I wanna get rid of the mechanical fuel pump and swap to an electric pump, havent been able to find any documentation on others doing this swap, anyone know of any good sources??
This is the fuel pump i wanna use, it's 2-4psi off a carburated Ferrari GTB.... would it work on our carbs??
Gasket required for stator replacement has been ordered as well and should be here wednesday.
Checked the belt tension, a little slack
Checked the tensioners, they turned nice and smooth, no play or grinding noise, so i readjusted the tensionsers and the belts are nice and tight now, no odd wear marks, cracks, or other damage.
Like I said, new belts, they can look great and just snap on you. Start new an you know the history.
Cheers,. SHe is beautiful.
Just sprayed some random areas with simple green and wiped off with a rag, should clean up nicely for paint.
How she lookd on the bench after clean up for the day..
as above do the belts its a interference engine so bad things happen if a belt snaps
also if you take the belts off consider changing the cam seals that way you wont wind up with the shoe oiler option
same with the tach cable seal its a pain as the oil blows back under the motor and winds up on the top of your shoe
DAMHIK
also if you take the belts off consider changing the cam seals that way you wont wind up with the shoe oiler option
same with the tach cable seal its a pain as the oil blows back under the motor and winds up on the top of your shoe
DAMHIK
MotorbikeBruno
Over 1,000 Posts
Yup, belts are supposed to be done every 25K or so. Easy job if you ask me. As for the coolant pipes, are you talking about the O-rings that fit into the center section? Or did you mean the outer pipes where it bolts down on the engine case? And what Maritime said. Randakks has an electronic fuel pump that he had custom made for the goldie. I tried with a 2-3psi pump when I had my bike, it caused a few other problems and I ended up putting the mechanical pump back on in the end, as I didn't have the cash for Randakk's version :'(
For the center stand, I don't remember, but some of those bikes had a spot on the exhaust that had a bump stop on it. Check yours to see if this is the case. Keep it up, paint looks amazing!
For the center stand, I don't remember, but some of those bikes had a spot on the exhaust that had a bump stop on it. Check yours to see if this is the case. Keep it up, paint looks amazing!
Okay instead of reposting all of the pictures.
The one where you ask "What does this do" that is your rear brake pull switch that makes the rear brake light come on.
It connects to the other side of the brake pedal mount.
There should be a little rounded area where the threaded part mounts and a small spring that goes in to that little hole and connects to the brake mount on the inside of the frame there should be a little hook.
The nut adjust the tension so it's not too loose and not pulling the switch.
As a matter of fact if you look at that same picture and go straight down and look at the frame there is a small round mount that is open toward the front of the bikd and that is where it goes.
Good Luck.
The one where you ask "What does this do" that is your rear brake pull switch that makes the rear brake light come on.
It connects to the other side of the brake pedal mount.
There should be a little rounded area where the threaded part mounts and a small spring that goes in to that little hole and connects to the brake mount on the inside of the frame there should be a little hook.
The nut adjust the tension so it's not too loose and not pulling the switch.
As a matter of fact if you look at that same picture and go straight down and look at the frame there is a small round mount that is open toward the front of the bikd and that is where it goes.
Good Luck.
kopcicle
antidisestablishmentarian
Just going to out myself as a former wing owner and mechanic .
If you don't know when the belts were last changed change them . these engines are not only valve benders but the valves make contact so far out on the edge of the piston that the compression ring is usually trapped by the impact . so not only are you replacing valves and possibly a cracked guide but you are splitting the cases for the ruined piston . Not fun at all .
The alternator/stator in these bikes is a weak link not because the part itself is weak but because the engine has to come out to change it . If you can at all find the coin to send it off to Gary at Custom Rewind (or wire puller of your choice ) and do it now while the engine is out .
The clutch can be done while the engine is in the bike but its a pain .
Valves are .004" and a bit more snug on the intake side .
Also while it's on the bench paint the flywheel markings with some high visibility whatever the ....
Ports and manifolds respond well to a good clean up if you have the inclination but any attempt to alter the passages usually ends in disaster .
There are several articles around the interwebs for rejetting the GL for free flowing exhaust but that's for another time . For now just save yourself some pain and do not remove the carb bodies from the intake plenum . If you do or already have good luck syncing them later .
the fuel pump is not a good idea
That's my $0.02
~kop
If you don't know when the belts were last changed change them . these engines are not only valve benders but the valves make contact so far out on the edge of the piston that the compression ring is usually trapped by the impact . so not only are you replacing valves and possibly a cracked guide but you are splitting the cases for the ruined piston . Not fun at all .
The alternator/stator in these bikes is a weak link not because the part itself is weak but because the engine has to come out to change it . If you can at all find the coin to send it off to Gary at Custom Rewind (or wire puller of your choice ) and do it now while the engine is out .
The clutch can be done while the engine is in the bike but its a pain .
Valves are .004" and a bit more snug on the intake side .
Also while it's on the bench paint the flywheel markings with some high visibility whatever the ....
Ports and manifolds respond well to a good clean up if you have the inclination but any attempt to alter the passages usually ends in disaster .
There are several articles around the interwebs for rejetting the GL for free flowing exhaust but that's for another time . For now just save yourself some pain and do not remove the carb bodies from the intake plenum . If you do or already have good luck syncing them later .
the fuel pump is not a good idea
That's my $0.02
~kop
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
I think that about answers all your questions... I can confirm the thoughts on the centerstand. There was a rubber snubber on the factory exhaust that cushioned it when retracted.
Not only agree 100% to change your timing belts now, but also do not push on the tensioner to adjust it, Use its own spring pressure only... then roll the engine through 180 to get slack on the other sides belt and let its sping set the tension there.
Not only agree 100% to change your timing belts now, but also do not push on the tensioner to adjust it, Use its own spring pressure only... then roll the engine through 180 to get slack on the other sides belt and let its sping set the tension there.
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
I had posted a lot of that inbetween the pics but it was hard to see after. There is a great step by step belt change tutorial on the NGW club site. Lots of pics and tricks to make the job actually enjoyable. within reason and the belts are cheap insurance for sure. Oh yeah did we mention you should change the belts??? LOL
MotorbikeBruno
Over 1,000 Posts
Maritime said:
And that the Napa ones work great! haha Change your belts. One more time for good measure
