Acewell MD052 Tach Question

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

hey guys!


i´m looking for replacement for my Yamaha RD Tachometer...it broke this season and i dont want to deal with Tacho bowdens anymore so i researched a littl bit and found this acewell tach that includes both tach and revometer.

http://www.acewell.de/acewell/classic/tachometer-und-drehzahlmesser/351/acewell-ace-md052?c=7

What you guys think of this product?Has anyone of you used it with success?
Opionions appreciated!

Cheers!

 

[thwrightstuff]

I highly recommend it. I just bought the Acewell 2853 and the installation was a cinch, save for needing to add some load for my led lights. I'm having a slightly difficult time getting the speedo tuned, but nothing a little research can't fix.
This thing really cleans up the front end of the bike. I hated how the extra fat 80s tach and speedometer looked witht he clunky lights. This not only lightens up the front end, but makes it looks way prettier.
Personally, I love this one: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/black-acewell-2853-digital-speedometer-and-tachometer.html. And if you can't mount the magnetic speed sensor, grab yourself the appropriate mechanical speed sensor cable for your bike.

 

[thwrightstuff]

Here's a nice video of it operating: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMHyHGAl1ak

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

hey man!

thanks for your replay!

i guess i will go for the more classic looking tach.
i will use the mechanical tach bowden and a oil screw sensor to measure my oil temperature.is it hard to wire these tachs?
i hate messing messing with diodes and stuff.

how big is the one you posted?

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

I've wired up 2 of the Acewells. I think they are labeled fairly well, and as long as you know how to do wiring, not that painful either. I had one of the "higher" end KOSO guages that had tons of functions for my CBR600 Hurricane that used the temp sensors and such. I think it may have taken me a few hours. The Acewell was a bit quicker. Might have taken more time to fit brackets and change that aspect of the bike than it took to wire in

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

Thanks for chiming in!

The md052 is quite small with 52mm in diameter.are the digits readable in sunny conditions ?

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Thanks for chiming in!

The md052 is quite small with 52mm in diameter.are the digits readable in sunny conditions ?

It's backlit, so I don't remember having any problems with mine. I did have a slight angle (30-45 degrees maybe?) pointed up in my direction like any gauge would be. I'd sit on the bike and look at it a few times before you decide on your mounting position. That way you can see if there's any real issue for you. I can't remember any issues with sunlight on mine.

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

Ok man.i'm not sure if i will take the md 052..52 MM diameter is crazy small...but who needs to read revs and speed anyways ?

The other classic one i posted has 97MM diameter which again seems a little big for my taste.

Do you know any other firms that offer digital tachs for a reasonable pricing?

Oh and i almost forgot to ask:
My bike is a 2Stroke 2Cylinder.will these tachs fit my bike?
I guess the revs will be read by a coil wire.

 

[hillsy]

Oh and i almost forgot to ask:
My bike is a 2Stroke 2Cylinder.will these tachs fit my bike?
I guess the revs will be read by a coil wire.

I've wired in a few 2853's and you can select tach settings to suit singles or multi-cylinder engines.


And they are good quality units - well worth the money IMO

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

Hey guys!

finally had this in the mail: Acewell MD052 with temperature sensor and analog speed sensor.

Yesterday i tried to mount the tach and man this full of fail, i blew like 8 fuses.

Maybe you guys can help me out.

This is how i started:

First i connected the black ground, which ground all function all together.
Then i proceded in connecting the RED for "ignition hot" and BROWN for "always hot".
Everytime i connected the always hot i blew a fuse.
I even tried connecting it directly to the battery and i had a nice cable burn.
What is the way to go to get power to this thing without these problems?

Second pic shows the cables for the control lights:

ORANGE blinker left
WHITE blinker right
LIGHT GREEN light control
GRAY Oil light
PURPLE Neutral light

Third and fourth pic shows the power,ground and Rev cables:

BLACK Ground to frame
BROWN + always on
RED + ignition on
GREEN Speed
WHITE Temperature
Yellow RPM

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

I'd verify that brown IS actually the "hot" always wire. Sounds like it's a ground of some sort to be popping fuses if it's "supposed" to be a positive line in. I always test wires with a VERY SMALL 12V battery. That way there's not enough amperage to do a ton of damage. You do have to realize that the gauge is made overseas...and while they make some good things, they also make some bad things. Got a link to the wiring diagram? Or a scan of what it came with?

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

I'd verify that brown IS actually the "hot" always wire. Sounds like it's a ground of some sort to be popping fuses if it's "supposed" to be a positive line in. I always test wires with a VERY SMALL 12V battery. That way there's not enough amperage to do a ton of damage. You do have to realize that the gauge is made overseas...and while they make some good things, they also make some bad things. Got a link to the wiring diagram? Or a scan of what it came with?

hey man!

thanks for chming in.hope you can help me out!
there you go.

 

[Sonreir]

Looks like the brown wire from the tach should be able to go to constant hot. If you're blowing fuses then something might be wrong with the gauge.

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

Looks like the brown wire from the tach should be able to go to constant hot. If you're blowing fuses then something might be wrong with the gauge.

thanks for chiming in!

i used "crocodile" clips to test brown constant hot on the tach.after 15 seconds i got a nice cable burn.the ground was connected to bare frame metal.is it possible that these clips are not made for that kind of amperage?
i use the stock 12v 5 ah battery of my RD.

how can i test which cable is the ignition hot?
i have a test light.

 

[Sonreir]

The brown wire is for the clock, I assume, so it should draw very little power. 5mA I would think would even be a lot. No way it would cook a wire unless something was quite wrong.

If you hook the gauge up to a battery, brown on positive and black on negative, does it work?

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

The brown wire is for the clock, I assume, so it should draw very little power. 5mA I would think would even be a lot. No way it would cook a wire unless something was quite wrong.

If you hook the gauge up to a battery, brown on positive and black on negative, does it work?

^ This. That's why it's "constant" it's to keep the clock going for you, that's it. So if it's burning wires etc, something might be wrong internally with the gauge, or the person who loaded the connector put it in the wrong spot. Double check that your browns line up on the connector too!

Also, for things like checking wires, never use clips until you have verified that your connection is OK, that helps you from burning things out since the second something happens, you usually jump or pull away and release the power to the cable. You can also feel the heat generated if there IS a problem like that. Just tap it on the (+) connection and see if the clock pops up. If it doesn't, something else is wrong internally. Contact the seller.

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

The brown wire is for the clock, I assume, so it should draw very little power. 5mA I would think would even be a lot. No way it would cook a wire unless something was quite wrong.

If you hook the gauge up to a battery, brown on positive and black on negative, does it work?

Before i tried to hook it up to my hot wire in the loom i connected the brown and red to the + of the battery and the - of the tach was grounded to the frame.
the brown seems to power the "battery" that the tach has,it reads the time on the lcd display.when the ignition hot is disconnected,the time reappears.
When i connected the red wire (ignition hot) the lcd display lit up with all the functions showing.

Is it right that i connected the tach ground to the frame?
should i run a separate cable just for the brown (always hot) from the battery plus or should i just use the red (always on) from the ignition switch?

how can i test the switched plus in my ign switch

thought about using the plus side of one of the lamps that lightened the stock tach,they are switched plusses arent they : ?
when i turn the key,these lamps would come on so...

 

[Sonreir]

Before i tried to hook it up to my hot wire in the loom i connected the brown and red to the + of the battery and the - of the tach was grounded to the frame.
the brown seems to power the "battery" that the tach has,it reads the time on the lcd display.when the ignition hot is disconnected,the time reappears.
When i connected the red wire (ignition hot) the lcd display lit up with all the functions showing.

Is it right that i connected the tach ground to the frame?
should i run a separate cable just for the brown (always hot) from the battery plus or should i just use the red (always on) from the ignition switch?

Red from the ignition switch is fine. It runs straight from the battery anyway. Connection to frame for the ground is OK, too, but use a multimeter to ensure the connection has good continuity (1 Ohm or less and less is better) to the battery negative terminal.

how can i test the switched plus in my ign switch

Sorry, I don't understand this question. You mean testing that the ignition switch works when you turn it on and off?

thought about using the plus side of one of the lamps that lightened the stock tach,they are switched plusses arent they : ?
when i turn the key,these lamps would come on so...

Sounds correct to me.

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

I'm in agreement with Sonreir on that. The only thing I might add, is that if you are proficient enough with wiring, you could run a single negative lead directly from the battery if you'd like. That way you KNOW you have good grounds that are not 40 years old But it's really not a necessity. With clean contacts you should be able to get a nice solid ground in the leads that are in the headlight bucket. The red always on lead that goes to your switch will be fine, and you can definitely use one of the lines that ran your stock tach or speedo lights as they are switched +. They are "unused" now anyways, so you might as well use them to save you some wiring time! Keep at it, sounds like you are getting this figured out nicely

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

hey guys!

today evening i will finally have time to try what you told me about my tach!

question:

i need to hook up a wire form the tach for the revometer to my CDI coil, the support technician told me that there should be two cables ( i have a orange and a black cable), and i need to hook it up to the cable that is not hot.
Which of the two cables should be the one with the signal?
how can i test it?
i have a test light and a multimeter.

cheers guys!