Poor College Student CB360 Build

dude first just bypass the kill switch take a hot wire, any hot wire, and put it direct to the coils. Black and white was hot to coils. Coils should get warm when you are trying to start the bike > are they? Make sure your wire is hot to the coil by turning your multimeter to battery test and ground one lead to engine and one lead to the wire should read around 12 v if you are juiced. I don't see how you could wire the coils backwards. Yellow is left cylinder i think. Gap your points and set your timing. If this sounds unfamiliar you need to invest in a good chilton manual it will be your best friend. I would be meticulous going through wire connections as even an intermittent short can keep it from running even if you see spark when testing the plugs. make sure all connections are insulated. If it tries to start i would spray some starter fluid if it tries harder it is likely a fuel problem if it doesn't even try likely a wiring issue.
 
I think it is good practice when trouble shooting to use a car battery so you know it's getting good juice. Use clear fuel line so you know you aren't fuel starved. oh and check the fuse first. I tore my carbs apart a couple times before i diagnosed a crappy little short.
 
Thanks everyone for the feedback. I know it isn't a battery problem because I can pull the plugs and get spark on both the left and right. Also I am running clear fuel lines to begin with and they have fuel in them. Plus the petcock is brand new, so no junk in it. Also I have tried the starter fluid thing and that gets me some popping but the last few times I haven't been using it and it seems to want to go. I just pulled all of my wires to the coils and what not and hooked them back up. When I try to fire it up it seems like it wants to go instantly, but I get smoke out of the carbs.... >:( So any ideas?
 
I fyou have compression, fuel, and air, the only possible thing is spark. You may be getting a good spark, but it's possible you're getting it at the wrong time. Check your timing and ensure the coils are hooked up to the correct point.
 
really sounds like a fuel problem to me. I imagine it has to do with your carb cleanliness// setup / but i digress. Good luck brother.
 
Well... I'm not too sure what kief means by "seems to want to go", so I could be misinterpretting his post. If he's getting a popping sound after using starter fluid, that's usually an indication of uncompression ignition (smoking from the carbs backs this up as well) and so I say his timing is off. By a lot. Probably 180° out.
 
Well I think it is timing too; by 180 degrees or more. I was reading in another post about a similar situation with the kickstarter biting back and believed it was a timing issue. If it is off by 180 degrees how would I fix that?
 
Here is the post that I got the idea that the timing was off.

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=33080.0
 
Do you have a manual? If so, follow the procedure for gapping the points and setting the static timing. Also ensure that the advancer has not been installed incorrectly (this will put timing out 180°) or if you have switched the wires leading from the points to the coils or switched the coils themselves.
 
I checked the timing and it looks like it is correct to me. I believe the wiring is correct too. I have the original wiring diagram and everything looks to be in order.

Also I bought a master cylinder repair kit and I was wondering if there is a way to get that snap ring out with out the tool. Mine aren't long nor thin enough to reach down in there. I also checked around town for one that would work but I couldn't find any.

So I have some pictures of the progress since it has been awhile.
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I have a few wires unplugged for now since I was wrapping them all up.
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Notice my impeccable metal work for the battery.. :o
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Dirty Mirror
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Here is the stator and timing marks...
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and the points in that position.
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Ladies and Gentlemen, SHE IS ALIVE! I got her running while a buddy of mine was kickstarting it for me. I do have a few issues to figure out, like kill switch, a couple of leaks, etc. She climbed to 4k and stayed there, but she does rev all the way to the red line. When I tried to kill it she refused to and I had to pull the quick connect from the power cable. Though I already devised a new kill switch. I pulled the plugs which are new and they were where black.

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So where should I start with the high idle issue?

p.s. I will get a really crappy video of it running later.
 
Bench sync the carbs if you haven't already done so. Then adjust idle screw down. If that's not working, it's likely you have an air leak.
 
Bad seal in the manifolds is the most common one. Make sure you're using new gaskets (a touch of gasket sealant will help with this, but go easy on it) and a thin layer of grease between the carbs and the manifolds is recommended as well.
 
carb gaskets that are dry cracked ect......spray some wd-40 around possible leaking areas and the idle will change if there is an actual leak
 
Good lord, son! Lower that headlight and those guages!

Otherwise, very nice work. Have fun, and good luck.

*EDIT* I see you have plans regarding this issue. Well done. Carry on. :D
 
another place to look for an air leak is a torn/ripped carb diaphragm... check the other places first though.
 
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