small CL 360 project

The lever is way shorter, but if you look at the video you can watch it move. It now has a very short throw, but all energy is going straight down. You can lock up the wheel with your finger. You can put as much weight on it as you want. It feels fantastic when you put weight on it, but that doesn't mean you can lock up the wheel at 90mph (It's yet to be road tested). I don't think I'm gonna use the spring, so you can't ride around with your foot on the brake. I guess there might be trade offs, but I really think it will work fine. Time will tell. Troy
 
Ok, I'm stoked. Got the patches the other day (thanks Carter) and today I picked up a new jacket. Not sure if it's real leather but I can't tell the difference. Jacket was $60 marked down to $17.99 at JC Penny. Besides it's called 'Racer', LOL. It is quilted and should be pretty warm.
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They are just ironed on for now. But not for long. Our old babysitter sews all our stuff. She has sewn for about 30 years. She said abut $10. I don't know what it would cost commercially?? Troy
 
I'm stoked. Now I need a bike. Carter does an awesome Job. The patches are great quality and I know that they will be around for a long time. I kinda hate to put them on a cheap jacket, but hopefully the jacket will hold together for a couple of years. When it dies, I'll just take the patches off and have them put on a new jacket. Troy
 
Nice Looks Sharp, If the jacket goes bad you can just cut it out and have it sewn on another. Is your rear (the bikes/make sure everyone is clear on that) that high cuz its on the stand? Seems a little high. Love the taillight install looks good. OH Sorry just noticed ur shocks arent installed. On your dent I was thinking why not use it. Smooth it out and copy on the other side. Like BCR has on some of their tanks with the front indents.
 
Thanks man. I've since decided against lifting the rear. It would have been a few inches lower than in teh picture because it was sitting on a jack that was too high. It also takes away a little bit from the vintage feel. So I'm leaving it stock heigth. That tank is the stock 360 tank and I'm not using it. I was offering it up to someone and just wanted to let them know about the dent. I have a CB 200t tank. I'm doing some body work on it because I'm kinda stuck with the other stuff. IE: electronics. I've still not mounted the battery box because I'm uncertain as to which I'll be using. Troy
 
you can always get a bit of lift out of the rear by beefing up your shocks... alot of models from metrics use a 13in shocks... i belive you have a 12 on there... an inch is a good gain on a shock swap...
i am a big fan of LOW AND LEAN though... so i dont have much room to talk
 
Well, I done a little work on the tank and rear sets. It's been to f'n cold and I've been pretty patient on this build. Maybe a little too patient, but like always I take two steps forward and one back. I really like to take a slow pace and try to make things right before I move on. When this weather breaks I may be scrambling to get this thing finished. Haha. Anyway, here is the tank after bondo and primer. It could use a few more coats of primer before I shoot it. Hope to get paint on it this weekend
http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo304/Applewoodfarm/DSC_0437.jpg[/IMG]]


I tried to use allthread to make linkage rod for the shifter. It's too weak and flexes. I also was going to use two ball joints but figured out I only need one. He it is on the bike. Only to be changed.
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here is a close up of the old shifter arm
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I ended up overtightining one of the bmx pegs and stripped out the threads. That's ok because I didn't like them much any way. I decided to change the mounting point of the shifter arm and for now I'm going to use the old pegs. I welded a grade 8 bolt just above the peg and used two brass washers and a lock nut to mount the shifter. It works real sweet! All except the flex in the linkage rod. Today I stopped by a local machine shop and they are going to make me a rod. They are going to mill a 3/8"s rod so one end will have 1/4" threads (I wanted to go with 3/8'" for extra strength otherwise 1/4" rod would have been real easy) Anyhow, I plan to make a yoke on the other end. I'll take a photo once I get it done. By the way, cost of the new rod....25 bucks. kinda sucks but it's the most expensive part of the rear sets, so I guess I cant complain too much. Here is the new mounting position of the shifter
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BigBSBusa said:
Cool! How much to get the patches sewn on?
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Hey Big can you believe $2.00. A real nice job too. She charges $1 per patch. She use to be a professional seamstress (SP??) To bad we are so far way from everone because that is all she charges and she does a professional job.
 
Like I said, two steps forward....
Today I screwed up the clutch linkage. I pulled the lever and something popped in the case and the lever went limp. The lever had no resistance so I opened up the case to find that the rod (don't know what it's called) was broke. It's the main rod going into the case. sorry I don't know a thing about this kind of stuff, but I'm wondering what I'm into? Any help???Troy
 
I paid $15 to have my drycleaner open up the liner, sew on the big patch and close things back up again. Well worth it.
 
troybilt said:
Like I said, two steps forward....
Today I screwed up the clutch linkage. I pulled the lever and something popped in the case and the lever went limp. The lever had no resistance so I opened up the case to find that the rod (don't know what it's called) was broke. It's the main rod going into the case. sorry I don't know a thing about this kind of stuff, but I'm wondering what I'm into? Any help???Troy
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That's the clutch pushrod. You do not need to take apart the motor to remove it unless a piece of it was pushed into the case and you can't get it out. There are a few options: weld the 2 pieces together and smooth out the weld, get another from ebay, buy a steel rod that's the same diameter and make one yourself, get a machinist to make one for you.
 
DrJ said:
That's the clutch pushrod. You do not need to take apart the motor to remove it unless a piece of it was pushed into the case and you can't get it out. There are a few options: weld the 2 pieces together and smooth out the weld, get another from ebay, buy a steel rod that's the same diameter and make one yourself, get a machinist to make one for you.
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"clutch push rod"' so that's what it's called. I'll try to take it apart tomorrow. Thanks Dr J.
 
you can get linkage or at least round bar steel at the local hardware store, then just thread it man. it is tuff!
 
troybilt said:
Hey Big can you believe $2.00. A real nice job too. She charges $1 per patch. She use to be a professional seamstress (SP??) To bad we are so far way from everone because that is all she charges and she does a professional job.
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That's a killer deal!
 
JRK5892 said:
you can get linkage or at least round bar steel at the local hardware store, then just thread it man. it is tuff!
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Jrk, do you think 1/4" steel will be tough enough? I was going with the 3/8" to get a little extra beef. If 1/4" will be enough I'll call them first thing Monday and just thread 1/4" rod like you said. It would be way cheaper and a lot easier. I don't have the dies, but I'll have them do it. Still way, way cheaper. What do you think?? Troy
 
Hey Troy, another option for your pushrod is 5/16" tube. If you get the right wall thickness (I don't remember exactly what that is offhand), it will have the perfect ID to tap with a 1/4" female thread. You get a little extra stiffness and save a little weight. I went that route on the steering pushrods for a couple of recumbent bicycles I built and it worked great.

CC
 
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