small CL 360 project

Thanks for the responses guys. I think I'm just going to thread 1/4" rod. It's just easiest at this point.
Hey Dr.J, I put the clutch pushrod on the back burner until I decide if I'm going to fix it or replace it.
Got the tank painted this weekend. Used epoxy like Jrk recommended. Turned out pretty nice. has a little orange peel, but nothing like it looks in the photos. Think it was reflecting stuff, ie: gravel in driveway. Anyway, it has a pretty deep shine.
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I'm having trouble with my photobucket account so I'll post more as soon as I can.
 
The tank looks sick! Joe was right, that appliance epoxy paint kicks ass. I picked some up today and started painting some parts on my wheels, and it looks great. Now that I see how your tank turned out with that paint, maybe I'll skip paying the painter to do my tank...
 
wait till you guys see how tuff it is! and it holds up real well to gas and other chemicals.... i have to strip my tank again and i am dreading it... i like it man, came out great... on your orange peel spots, wait a week, then wet sand the whole thing down again and shoot another light coat on it... smooth as glass man.... you can even buff it out a bit with a good wax after it cures up for a few weeks.!
 
compliments much appreciated! I'm no painter, but the tank turned out pretty good if I must so. Like JRK and others have said, "its all in the prep." The epoxy sprays different than other paints that I've used. It is way thicker and wetter. The spray pattern out of the nozzel is more concentrated so it's a little harder to get uniform coverage. You also have to watch over spray. After the first coat, I learned to keep the nozzel at a slight angle towards areas that I hadn't sprayed yet. Not sure if that was neccessary but that's whatI did.
SausageMahoney said:
The tank looks sick! Joe was right, that appliance epoxy paint kicks ass. I picked some up today and started painting some parts on my wheels, and it looks great. Now that I see how your tank turned out with that paint, maybe I'll skip paying the painter to do my tank...
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Well worth giving it a try. If you screw it up, just do it again or let your painter do it. Just take your time and do the prep work. What prep did you do on your wheels. Besides electrics its the #1 thing I'm not looking forward to. I plan on doing mine like JRK did on his current project "No Regrets" .
 
I also got a few other things done (or atleast started) this weekend. I decided to mount the electronics under the tank. I shaved the standind rib on the backbone and once flat I re welded it. I'm in the process of welding tabs to mount all the goodies. Just real basic, clean looking, but functunal. Right now I'm stuck on the rectifier. It needs changed so I'm unsure which one I'll use. I want to do the Radioshack conversion but I'll need more research to figure out what it will need (now where's that under $50 thread???)
I have more photos but photobucket is f'd up right now it won't even let me sign in. >:(
 
Ok Troy so I'm looking at making one of those shift levers for the rearsets and I am wondering couldn't I just make the same thing for the brake side too? I'm not really sure I haven't made stuff like this before but it looks like the same concept, just make the same kind of lever and peg and bend the rod and attach it right? Anyone give me some ideas to do this or reasons not to do this?
 
hanly2 said:
Ok Troy so I'm looking at making one of those shift levers for the rearsets and I am wondering couldn't I just make the same thing for the brake side too? I'm not really sure I haven't made stuff like this before but it looks like the same concept, just make the same kind of lever and peg and bend the rod and attach it right? Anyone give me some ideas to do this or reasons not to do this?
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Hey man, I don't see why. However....
However, it would take some work. First it has to be safe and functional. In that order. It is a little different than the shifter side because it requires more force to stop the bike than it does to shift it. Making the lever is the easy part. In fact, many guys on here have made their own rear sets including the levers. The way I made my shift lever is kinda what I'd call rough, old school type of fabrication (I don't have the skills or tools to do much else.) Anyway, The mounting location and it's strength is key. I wouldn't weld a bolt to the frame like I did on the shifter side. It needs a second fail. meaning placing the bolt (pivot/mount point of the brake lever) through a hole and then welding it. This way even if the weld failed it would have the hole backing it up. This mount would have to be strong enough for you to jump up and down on, IMO. You don't want this thing to fail when you are trying to stop. Failure could be deadly.

Ok, so besides the mounting point the next thing to figure out would be the linkage. That too needs to be stout. There are a bunch of builds out there that you can copy from or just do your own. Once done make sure you get the opinion of others. You want to know how strong it is etc, etc.. For example, a seasoned welder can take one look at a weld and tell right away if you should trust it or not.
Now, I don't mean to discourage you, but there are a bunch of rear sets going for very very cheap (like both sides for $50) on ebay right now. Even if you buy rearsets it will still take some fabrication but a good bit is already done for you.
If you feel you have the skill set and decide to make your own, go for it! For me, there is alot pride in fabricating something. If I can help in anyway, don't hesitiate to ask.
Also, it would be nice if others would chime in. In fact you may ask for the opinion of others over on the rear-sets threads. Troy
 
Today I priced the sum of all the parts to create a set like the one you made and it looks like it will cost at least 40-50. So now I am looking to see if there is another option. I would like to just have a simple set up with just one bolt going through the stock passenger location and through the lever and peg. I don't know if there is any sportbike sets that I can buy and then just not use the stock bracket to achieve what I want. But I can't find anything on ebay for less then $50 anyway. I have been obsessing about it all day.
 
I may have found a battery for cheap. It has 6AH and is pretty small. Manufacturer: PowerSonic
Chemistry: Lead
Voltage: 12 Volts
Capacity: 6 Amp Hour(s)
Dimensions: 3.54" L x 2.76" W x 4.21" H
Weight: 4.19 Pound(s)
$15.75 +shipping
If I've figured right the batteries like Chris f used is a little smaller but has a capacity of 2.4AH
I don't have a clue what I'm looking at but it looks like this would work for me. Here is the link: http://www.gotbatteries.com/items.asp?params=batteries/SLA/1/Powersonic/PSH-1255/PSH-1255F2/SL118/35L118S5

What do you guys think???
 
hanly2 said:
Today I priced the sum of all the parts to create a set like the one you made and it looks like it will cost at least 40-50. So now I am looking to see if there is another option. I would like to just have a simple set up with just one bolt going through the stock passenger location and through the lever and peg. I don't know if there is any sportbike sets that I can buy and then just not use the stock bracket to achieve what I want. But I can't find anything on ebay for less then $50 anyway. I have been obsessing about it all day.
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I'm kinda suprised at the price. The linkage did eat up some funds but more than likely you'd have to atleast make (or buy) the linkage rod even if you buy rearsets. Not sure where the cost comes in. I mean it's just 1"x1/8" flat stock, a grade 8 bolt and a couple of brass washers. I hear ya on the obsessing on the rear sets. I've been there. I plan to have less than $400 in build materials. It's tough to do. I'll check around. I seem to get pretty luck on finding deals. Do you want an exact match?
 
I'm just looking for something that works. I priced it like this
strap = 3
clevis pin = 3
bike peg = 5
rod = 3
ball joint ends at least = 4
bolts and washers or spacers = 2

thats $20 some prices are rounded up a little.

This is the battery I was looking at for hours today between looking for rearsets. It's very similar to the one you just posted only a little stronger I guess
http://advancedbattery.com/itemdesc~product~12v+7.0ah+f1%3b+power-sonic+ps-1270+f1~ic~12v7t1pc~eq~~tp~.htm
 
LOL, I was just on that page. They also have a 5ah battery for I think around $15. I'm feeling a little better about the battery. To bad I can't use the 7ah battery. It's to wide for me.
Still funny that not two seconds before you posted that I was on that exact page looking at that battery.
 
hanly2 said:
I'm just looking for something that works. I priced it like this
strap = 3
clevis pin = 3
bike peg = 5
rod = 3
ball joint ends at least = 4
bolts and washers or spacers = 2

thats $20 some prices are rounded up a little.

This is the battery I was looking at for hours today between looking for rearsets. It's very similar to the one you just posted only a little stronger I guess
http://advancedbattery.com/itemdesc~product~12v+7.0ah+f1%3b+power-sonic+ps-1270+f1~ic~12v7t1pc~eq~~tp~.htm
Click to expand...
Man, those ball jount ends add up fast. however you can make one end as a yoke (homemade)and use the ball joint on the other. I forgot about the bike peg. I have one good one I'd send you but to buy the other you'd have to buy both. Can you use your old pegs for now? Sorry man I'm trying. If you are like me your trying to be function, safe and cool, but cheap, cheap, cheap.
 
Anyway, don't give up on e bay. I know I saw some GSXR shifter side complete for $25 just yesterday. I almost made a post announcing ebay cheap rear sets but didn't get around to it. I'll keep an eye out for ya.
 
hanly2 said:
This is the battery I was looking at for hours today between looking for rearsets. It's very similar to the one you just posted only a little stronger I guess
http://advancedbattery.com/itemdesc~product~12v+7.0ah+f1%3b+power-sonic+ps-1270+f1~ic~12v7t1pc~eq~~tp~.htm
Click to expand...

LOL. I have four of these sitting in my garage. These are used for UPS systems for desktop PCs. Call facities and tell them your UPS battery has gone bad. When they change it out, tell them just to leave the old one :)

--Chris
 
chrisf said:
LOL. I have four of these sitting in my garage. These are used for UPS systems for desktop PCs. Call facities and tell them your UPS battery has gone bad. When they change it out, tell them just to leave the old one :)

--Chris
Click to expand...
Hey Chris, any reason these won't work?
 
Don't kill yourself looking for me. I appreciate it but I know you have plenty to do yourself. I just need to go to a scrap yard or something and actually look at stuff. What I want to do is find some used rearsets, where I can just use the peg and the lever and the linkage without having to use the bracket so I can just bolt it to the stock location. The problem is I do not know what bikes have rearsets that I can do this with. Like the Raask ones but not the same price lol. This is my first bike so it's hard to work with something that you have never seen. I may just use the stock pegs for this season and get some more bike experience then next year I can do rearsets and add clip-ons. I change my mind every 2 minutes.
 
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