Rat_ranger
Over 1,000 Posts
Slow progress is happening. Koni shocks are rebuilt and installed. Tail light is mounted and garage is cleaner with more to go.
The Norda
- Thread starter Rat_ranger
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Rat_ranger
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Seat is mounted, the rear mounts are dzus 1500 series sliding latches, front are pegs through grommets. I'm pretty happy with the overall look so far.
Rat_ranger
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I'm planning on the battery and fuse box being under the hump, so I figured tool free access might be important.
Rat_ranger
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Deciding footpeg placement. I think I have them where I want them, but I have a set of cheap 1" rise clipons coming so I can decide if I want the bars higher. it's a pretty long tank, so I think I might want higher bars. The $30 amazon clipons will be good to test and decide before spending close to $200 for something like woodcraft.
Rat_ranger
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Started working on the oil tank, and got new bars from woodcraft. Bars are a side mount 35mm riser style. This brings the bars up and back a little over an inch. It doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference in the reach.
Rat_ranger
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Woodcraft stuff isn't cheap, but they have setups you can't get anywhere else. I had driven racing clipons on the bike, but it felt like too long a reach. I changed to some super cheap amazon 1" rise clipons to test the position. I liked the rise, but wanted the bars further back. That meant woodcraft. Nice thing is if they sellthe parts to make what you want, but not as a set you can call and make a set. I wanted sidemount with the rise, but fixed rather than adjustable.
Rat_ranger
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Oil tank is getting closer. Just have to add lower mounts and cap the top of the sides.
Rat_ranger
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Had to make sure everything would fit. It's close, but there's about 1/4" between the air filter and oil tank.
Rat_ranger
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Thanks, it's been a learning curve to get here. Before this I had never used an english wheel or bead roller. I've also gotten a TON of aluminum welding practice. I'm still glad I bought the tank from Tabclassics, I still couldn't manage a tank that nice.
Rat_ranger
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Thanks, it still has a fair bit left to do. I just modifiedthe oil return from the head similar to cyclex, I'm waiting on a piece of aluminum to finish cutting down the stator cover, and a gl1000 clutch to modify for a 6 spring setup. I need to get a little more practice withthe boring bar before I do the cylinders.
Even with that I'm saving up to send the head out for guides and porting. As well as saving for main bearings, gaskets, and decide if I want a cam and lightened crank.
Rat_ranger
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Rat_ranger
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Hard to believe this thread has been going for a year and a half already. It feels both longer and shorter than that. Hopefully within the next year it'll be road ready.
Started working on footpegs and mounts. Also made a template to attempt some hydroformed megaphones. No pic of the template, but if it works the way I want I might make a dxf file and see what it would cost to have them cut by sendcutsend.
Started working on footpegs and mounts. Also made a template to attempt some hydroformed megaphones. No pic of the template, but if it works the way I want I might make a dxf file and see what it would cost to have them cut by sendcutsend.
I like the 4-4 exhaust systern on thoose old Honda engines, even if a 2-2 looks more clasdic with the Norton frame would I go for a 4-4. If it was mine build i would do the mufflers straight as the megaphones was on the vintage Hondas like the RC166.
I like the pegs nice work, are the footpegs in aluminium or steel?
I like the pegs nice work, are the footpegs in aluminium or steel?
Rat_ranger
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Footpegs are aluminum. Should be plenty strong.
I'm really thinking about hydroformed cones now. I made a DXF and 2 pieces to test it, so now that I know it works I can get the parts cut by sendcutsend out of stainless for a little more than material would cost.
How are you doing the hydroforming? Have you just weld the two plates together and then pressurised with fluid or do you have some template (mabye not correct name) to put it in before you pressurise to get the right outside form?
Rat_ranger
Over 1,000 Posts
Final form is controlled by the pattern. So I made my pattern, first I layed out a straight cone and got the diameter every 2 inches. Then I figured out how much curve I wanted. The diameters were then converted to circumference minus 5% for stretch and then divided by 2. The resulting numbers were used to lay out line perpendicular to where they fall on the curve and the outside was connected to match the curve with the taper included.
The edges got rolled over about 45* then tapped together to create a flat butt weld on the top and bottom. the ends were closed with 1/2" npt pipe nipples welded in. One end gets a valve and the other connects to the pump. The valve lets you bleed all the air out.
Once that's done you fill it with water and slowly start adding pressure. This starts the metal expanding and while it expands you tap along the seams with a hammer to help avoid wrinkles or creases. You keep adding pressure while helping it form to the final shape you want. If it pops a leak, you stop, drain it, and reweld the leak. Then continue. Once the pressure is around 800psi you continue tapping along the seam in areas that need help getting to final shape. Once it's as close as you can get it the ends get cut off and you can use a metal rod as a mandrel to do any final shaping.
This was my test piece. I drew my pattern in CAD and saved it as a DXF file so that I can have sendcutsend cut the pieces for me. It's actually cheaper than just buying material to cut myself.
Here's a pic of the end of the megaphone before I sealed it. It shows how the edges were formed into butt welds.