1st time build-1980 Suzuki GS750 Cafe

My 80 750 came with a spare 850 tank and it didn't fit over the triple tube backbone of the frame. Did sell it for a good cunk-o-change though....
 

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Is it hard to cover up the side mounting holes for the emblems on the tank or do most people just leave it and paint the tank as it?
 
If you go the body filler / paint route, you'll need to grind down the mounting points a little bit. They actually stick out a hair more than the "body" of the rest of the tank.
 
Ok guys, so I'm finally to pretty much the last stage, the electrical and I'm already lost. I tried labeling everything, but since so much is not going back on I'm not sure what goes where. I've been reading the schematic which kind of makes sense, but I'm just nervous I'm going to plug something in wrong and start blowing fuses. Any tips guys?
 
claygs750 said:
Ok guys, so I'm finally to pretty much the last stage, the electrical and I'm already lost. I tried labeling everything, but since so much is not going back on I'm not sure what goes where. I've been reading the schematic which kind of makes sense, but I'm just nervous I'm going to plug something in wrong and start blowing fuses. Any tips guys?
Click to expand...

Keep it simple... I was in your predicament not long ago. I roughed the wiring so that I knew everything worked, one circuit at a time. It was tedious, but it taught me quite a bit. I then broke out the paper and pencil and revised the mess into a simpler schematic, and may even have revised it one more time. Blowing fuses is good, when compared to melting wires, frying reg/rec, or a fire.... I can sketch a schematic out for you that is fairly simple for your GS, based on mine. Drop me a PM.
 
So I'm still working n the electrical, but in the meantime I need to find a seat. There is a local guy that will do it for 150, but I need create a metal seat pan. I would rather buy one already done and not mess with it. Anyone know of seats that are made for the thruxton seat fender I have? The one from DCC is too plan with no stitching so I would rather have something a little better.
 
Ok, so I'm trying to get the electric going temporarily, but I must have something wrong. At this point I'm just trying to see if it will try to turn over at the solenoid. This is how I have it connected right now:

-Starter wire (black) going to one post of solenoid
-Other wire (red) from solenoid going to positive terminal on battery.
-Green/yellow wire from solenoid into matching wire in harness
-Ground terminal on battery has wire straight to frame
-Wire (red) going from positive side of battery to fuse box
-Second red wire from fuse box going to matching red wire in harness
-Plug set of wires coming from fuse box connected to matching plug from wire harness
-Polaris R/R three wires connected straight to 3 stator wires
-The unneeded loop from the r/r through the headlight has been removed
-The clutch safety wire has been removed and connected to each other in the bucket.
-Other 4 wires from r/r go to:
--Positive terminal of batter with in-line fuse
--Positive wire in harness
--The other ground wires connected to each other with jumped to frame
-Every other connector is attached to the matching connector or wire.

Currently I have most bare wires connected using a twist nut temporarily.

When I place a screw driver across the solenoid terminals I can see a few sparks and hear a clicking sound near the stator/clutch area, but it doesn't try to crank. Any ideas?
 
If you are SURE your engine isn't locked up...Sounds like a bad starter if you bypass the solenoid and all the starter does is "Click". Run a decent sized cable from a starter mounting bolt directly to the battery negaive terminal to verify a good solid ground and try taking a screwdriver across the two big positive terminals on the solenoid. regardless of the switch position or any other circut, She'll crank over if the starter is good and the engine isn't stuck. Won't start... but she'll crank (or melt shit trying) ::)
 
Before I started this build the bike sat for 5 years. I put a battery in it and fired right up on the first try so I would think everything is still ok, unless I messed something up when I broke everything down. I didn't really take apart any engine parts so I'm not sure. I'll try to get a better ground and try again.
 
Ok, so the click is coming from the starter. I ran a better ground wire to the neg terminal and its doing the same thing. I'm not sure how to tell if the motor is locked up or a way to tell if the start is good
 
Pull the timing cover off and put a wrench on the end of the crank. Spin it counterclockwise (pull the spark plugs out and it should be easy).

As far as the clicking starter...... generally it's a battery with a low voltage (just needs charged). Could be a ground issue as well, or maybe a faulty relay?
 
I am just curious... Hoosier or Big Rich, you guys should be able to confirm this. I have read through this great! thread. I want to confirm something. From what I have read, it is the case that the gs750et tank... the one on your bike clay (and a great looking tank!)... will NOT fit on the earlier 76-79 models without frame modifications?

I have a lead on one of these tanks, but I haven't seen it up close. I don't want to blow $100 on something that won't fit. Then again, I have some friends who are aces with torches and welders... so I might be worth a little frame modification.

Sorry for being dense, and thanks for the any info provided!

Clay, that bike looks amazing.

HR
 
There was a cut-off when they change the rear mounting. Either two vrtical bolts or one single horizontal bolt... but I don't remember which one was first. I can tell you my '80 has the single horizontal.
 
+1...... my 1980 GS450 has the single bolt in the rear, along with the 1980 GS850 tank. My 1983 GR650 has the dual bolts in the rear.

But aside from the rear mounts being different, the front mounts might be too narrow or too wide, and they could be a different distance from the rear mount, tunnel width could be different, etc, etc. Really, you can roll the dice and hope for the best or try and get measurements before buying. The mounts are usually an easy fix, but the tunnel width / depth can't be altered so much......
 
Well I think I sorta fixed one problem and found a new one which is typical for me. So I'm an idiot and didn't ground the soleonoid so once I grounded the solenoid mounting bolt it started to crank. The crank is very slow, battery is right at 12v, but at least it's cranking. So I thought what the heck I will throw gas in the tank and try to turn it over. After multiple cranks that sounded like there was no chance of turning over gas started pouring out of the carbs.

So, I've just rebuild the carbs with a stage 3 kit and walked through every single step looking at two very detailed write-ups on gs resources site so I am really confident it's done right. I also recently bought a new petcock, the one that has no dial that you turn with a screw driver. I'm not sure what setting I need to have this on when I'm trying to start the bike. Could I have it in the prime setting where it's filling up the bowls and then eventually pouring out? The gas stopped once I turned it horizontal.
 
Yes, you should have it to prime. That is not the reason you have fuel pouring out.
Those vacuum petcocks are the bane of a 80's Suzuki, but usually because they DON'T flow fuel. The Run setting opens by engine vacuum, so the Prime setting is to fill the float bowls after it has set a long time or received maintenance.
For some reason your float valves are not closing, Either your floats are stuck, float level is set too high, maybe crap in the float needle valve seat, or your o-ring around the seat is cracked / torn.
 
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