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Sure, you could buy an assortment of jets, play with the clip height on the needles if adjustable (some weren't), and spend time doing plug chops to maybe find a good set-up. Personally, I would go with the Dynojet kit stage I. Save you tons of headache and probably some coin in the long run. They have the bugs already worked out.
You might want to since you are running pods. Read this http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3125.pdf page 2 tells the procedures. If you still are on the fence give them a call. Their Tech Support is reportedly top notch in recomendations.
I run a high flow Uni filter in place of the stock airfilter that's attached to the carb half of the stock airbox and a tunable Supertrapp / Kerker exhaust.
Too bad they don't make a stage II for our Zooks.
While I'm dealing with some striped carb screws I took a break and made some progress on the bike.
Question, I've upgraded the chain and sprockets which I installed and adjusted the tension. My question is if you look at the second picture there is a gap almost like the chain is to long. Will I need to remove any links?
I don't understand what you mean? I would rather leave it as is (as long as its safe) or before attaching the clip (I broke the first one) maybe just remove one of the links.
Keep in mind the chain will stretch a little with use. It might be a good idea to ride for a little and keep a close eye on it. Take a link out once it has stretched out a bit.
So because the MAC 4-1 black exhuast is on backorder for 4 weeks!!! (Shou've ordered long ago) I have time now to take my time with the electrical. First, I need to upgrade the regulator.
I'm currently looking for a rectifier/regulator so are there any specifications I need to consider? It looks like the stock has 3 wires going to the stator and 1 to positive? I plan to buy the battery below because of the size so I can hide it under the rear hump. From reading around in the forums these batteries are sensitive to voltages getting highter than 14.5 so when buying a regulator that is the main concern I have in mind. Besides matching up the wiring is there any voltage cap specs I need to consider?
This is the one I have
http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/suzuki/gs750e-16-valve-models-80-83/suzuki-univeral-regulatorrectifier.html
It goes hand in hand with the stator from electrosport as well
http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/suzuki/gs750e-16-valve-models-80-83/stator-suzuki-gs450-gs500e-gs550-gs650-gs750e-2.html
The electrical system for the GS is the weak point. On the stock stator one of the outputs is run through the headlight switch so that it only charges when the headlight is on.
Those two parts go hand in hand and connect straight to the battery.
Electrosport has bloody good customer service as well. I thought my order was lost as it took longer than a month to arrive (standard wait for Aus) I called them up and they looked it up, said if it does not arrive in a week to call again and they will sort it out. It arrived 3 days later.
Did you reroute your stator straight wire to the regulator and bypass the headlight? That would help me get rid of some of the wires. Did you just splice the wire going toward the headlight into the wire coming from the headlight into the regulator?
So it looks like if I keep the rectangle front master cylinder it will fit on the clipons, but the concern I have is the angle in which the fluid will be since they will be mounted on clips ons. If you have the bike sitting straight up and down the fluid will basically be all the way to the right of the MC which is the opposite side of the port down to the brake lines. Would this introduce air in the system? It seems like with the round MC the angle isn't as much of an issue since the hole is center of the MC.
Did you reroute your stator straight wire to the regulator and bypass the headlight? That would help me get rid of some of the wires. Did you just splice the wire going toward the headlight into the wire coming from the headlight into the regulator?
That was one of the simplest mods to my 80 GS750L. There are bullet connectors for both wires to and from the headlight circut. Un-plug both and plug two together to bypass I can check wire colors when I get home if you want...
So it looks like if I keep the rectangle front master cylinder it will fit on the clipons, but the concern I have is the angle in which the fluid will be since they will be mounted on clips ons. If you have the bike sitting straight up and down the fluid will basically be all the way to the right of the MC which is the opposite side of the port down to the brake lines. Would this introduce air in the system? It seems like with the round MC the angle isn't as much of an issue since the hole is center of the MC.
If the clip-ons were straight up and down all the time you would have an issue since its more than likely a slight angle you should be fine. Easiest way to tell is put it on the clip-on and check it. I never had an issue with mine when I had it set up that way with the old master and levers.
Looks like I swapped the white with a green tracer with the white with the red tracer at the connectins right after the regulator in the maian harness. I found the mod on www.theGSResources.com so it may be worth wile to double check there. But here is the schematic I modified to show what I did. So the White with a green is going straight to the regulator / rectifier (5) from the A.C. generator (3) then onto the headlamp.
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