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Weird, It seems to be a very popular place to cut a k. We are going to do them at angles and then we;d the seat tube on top. Base should be done today!
Seat pan is almost welded up, padding and leather tomorrow as well as the side panels. Gotta give a hand to my friends at E.R.A Fab and Customs where this has been getting done due to my garage being almost non existent and their welcome doors. Anything that was welded is Eric's handywork. It helps to have good peeps in your life.
Here is where we are at: The seat is all aluminum
This is all Eric's handy work, I am still coming up on the learning curb with welding but he is a genius, He fabricated this headlight envelopment in about 3 hours from a sheet of aluminum.
Because a lot of the front end parts are all waiting to come in, All of the front end will be started on in a week or so.
Muffler will be chopped for now but soon Id like to do a very short pipe and wrap the headers all the way up until the black tip I plan on putting on from DCC.
Clip ons, headlight, fork gaiters and new front brake line have arived. Seat almost complete, side panels getting done this week then I move on to the front end, then paint.
He did a mock up today of the leather, but its kinda like "the first pancake" so I rode it to work today but it will be re done and re sewn with thicker foam. looks good though
If it's the first time you've tackled this job, here's a headsup. get yourself a long [ 18" ] blade Phillips screwdriver before you start.
The small fairing screws under the front [ above wheel ] are a bitch to get to otherwise. attack them from the opposite side - ie left screws from the right etc. Ditto the screws inside the fairing at the front around the hand controls.Spray everything in sight with WD40 or similar a few hours [ 12 is better ] before you start.
It took me nearly 3 hours to remove the first fairing I did ..... down to 1 hour now.
Here it is with the fairing off. Side panels are a bronze grill type thing. The seat cover and foam are going to be fixed up when there is time. I still have to remove the ABS and re do the brakes with new pads and a brake line, then replace the forks, then put on headlight, gaiters, clip ons and move the key ignition. Ive got heaps of school work this week so I hope that all can be done by the end of the week.
I think Im going to just go with raw aluminum for the gas tank. The seat pan and wheels have to get painted sometime soon too.
I talked to Larry of Special K's about speedometer options and he gave me some great info on speedometers. So thats happening too. stick around
Replaced brake line with braided steel lines and pads, clip ons new forks and the glorious 7 inch headlight from dcc is all on. removed all componets of abs as well and took out a lot of unnecessary wires. also dropped forks an inch or so. will have better pics soon
I still have a lot more things to do but its lookin good ay?
Re: 1994 BMW K75 RT police "Clair build" BIKE WONT START PLEASE HELP electrical
Im very sorry to have to send you to another link but I believe I have described it as best I can in the thread link. I can imagine that this is not the most popular place for a bmw question but this is an electrical problem and with this wiring diagram and link someone with more experience than I may be able to decipher the problem seeing as most bikes are quite similar when you get down to it. I know no one who has more electrical knowledge than I do (not to sound cocky its just that in my small town I have no close peeps with that knowledge...sad I know), and I believe this is a problem that doesnt require 200 dollars to fix, Im just 20 years old and still learning everyday.
Re: 1994 BMW K75 RT police "Clair build" BIKE WONT START PLEASE HELP fuse pop
burnicarus said:
Im very sorry to have to send you to another link but I believe I have described it as best I can in the thread link. I can imagine that this is not the most popular place for a bmw question but this is an electrical problem and with this wiring diagram and link someone with more experience than I may be able to decipher the problem seeing as most bikes are quite similar when you get down to it. I know no one who has more electrical knowledge than I do (not to sound cocky its just that in my small town I have no close peeps with that knowledge...sad I know), and I believe this is a problem that doesnt require 200 dollars to fix, Im just 20 years old and still learning everyday.
Re: 1994 BMW K75 RT police "Clair build" BIKE WONT START PLEASE HELP fuse pop
No power to kill/start switch so when I put the kill switch to on the instrument does not show all systems go (i.e. neutral light, oil pressure light battery light, abs light) So I cant start the bike. The green/black wire coming from my brake light is melted up into the relay box due to crappy bmw police mechanics not fixing things correctly, I cut it out and Im still not getting power and fuse 1 is popping
Re: 1994 BMW K75 RT police "Clair build" electrical fixed, still wont start
electrical is fixed can now attempt to start bike however it is not starting. the engine is turning over i believe, I checked spark and put in new spark plugs, when I pulled the plugs they were wet. So im at a loss. its really weird as this bike was running a few days ago and would always start at the first push of the button
Re: 1994 BMW K75 RT police "Clair build" still wont start imiss kickstarters
Fuel injected, right?
I'm going to assume that the fuel is in the correct quantities and ratios when compared with the air. Since the bike was running a few days ago, we'll also assume that compression is good.
That leaves only spark. If you're sure you're getting spark, then the only possible problem is that the spark is at the incorrect time. Possible that the plug wires are swapped or the connector from the ignitor is messed up some how?
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