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I don't recognise the wider caliper, it's probably correct for 450 early model.
The lower one is from 500 twin or cb350/360/400, etc
It's definitely not CB750.
Pivot pin is upside down in lower pivot arm.
What is the bore size of master cyl? (it should be on back next to clamp)
havent done any work lately... ill polish up the calipers tomorrow or the next day and post pictures.
just ordered a new stator and rectifier/regulator unit from franks motorsports..... actually another site that sells the same product, but cheaper. supposedly the new stator produces over 12v even at idle, so i wont have to bother hooking the bike up to a trickle charger each week.
pricy at 220... but what the heck; the 350 had a few problems... not using what we have nowadays to fix those problems would be stupid.
also my cb500t forks are en-route... cant wait to get them polished up! I hope to pull the motor soon and start on the frame painting.
i need opinions on whether or not i should do a mono conversion... i really cant decide!
Nice pick-up on the new charging system Theres one in the future for my 350. Mono conversions are awesome, BUT, do you want to spend the extra time and money, or finish your bike? It seems like time is your least available resource at this point.
if you are handy with a wire you can cancel that order from franks for 220 dollars. just do a search on "radio shack rectifier" and also a " ford voltage regulator" they both just need to have proper wire ends replaced and total for a Brand new reg/rec that is smaller than original and will last forever is under 50 $ .
if you are not into doing the wiring yourself then go a head with the pre fab but i wouldn't i havent even had to change out my rec. bc my original is working perfectly.
anyway good to see you back on and working...
if you are handy with a wire you can cancel that order from franks for 220 dollars. just do a search on "radio shack rectifier" and also a " ford voltage regulator" they both just need to have proper wire ends replaced and total for a Brand new reg/rec that is smaller than original and will last forever is under 50 $ .
if you are not into doing the wiring yourself then go a head with the pre fab but i wouldn't i havent even had to change out my rec. bc my original is working perfectly.
anyway good to see you back on and working...
i can make the regulator and rectifier no problem... the thing is that i am not buying it for the regulator and rectifier- im buying it for the new stator. it just so happened that it came with one.
Time not being a worry for this project... i am pretty busy, but i still dont plan to finish her for a while. Im handy with a welder and physics, so doing the mono conversion is more going to be about looks and reducing sprung mass. i just need someone to double check my math if i do decide to do it.
For pj or anyone else who was wondering... the smaller caliper is labeled as size F3... the larger one is P7. the caliper seal i ordered fits the F3 and is labeled as for "CB450, 500, and 750".... what hondas used the P7 caliper?
i cleaned out my workstation and moved the engine and frame on top of it! i should have the engine dropped by tomorrow... Ill grab pictures later and update by tonight- I have a date with a bird right now
date went awesome... and i got some work done on my bike afterwards!
here are the pictures of the motor out of the frame....
I had also started detabbing the frame, and i took a peer inside the cambox.... WOW! talk about clean! There was a nice light film of oil on everything which tells me the oil passages are open... The cam chain looked brand new... or at least amazingly well maintained. The rockers were in perfect condition as well as the cam lobes. Didnt grab pics of it because id hate to have my sister bitching at me for dirtying her camera ;D ;D
heres a picture of the frame on my newly cleaned work bench (man i should have done that a while ago).
and of course, one of me sitting in the frame, on top of a flexy (yet surprisingly strong) table.
I put the swingarm back on before i called it a day and decided that keeping the dual rear shocks would be more appropriate- my styling for this bike has been much too classic so far.
Frame will only be braced inbetween the shock mounts- much of the flex that this frame has comes from the swingarm, not the frame. Swingarm will be braced just like the one in the picture below, and then it will be sent out to get bronze bushings as the stock bushings have some play in them (woohoo, death wobble).
If you take a look at AHRMA site they give spec for bracing CB350 swing arm, may as well make it within the rules
It will probably be stronger than the one shown if you can get the material
If you take a look at AHRMA site they give spec for bracing CB350 swing arm, may as well make it within the rules
It will probably be stronger than the one shown if you can get the material
New Stator arrived today! super pretty, and great quality. wiring is also simplified a bit over stock.
Here are some pics of the tabs removed from the frame. I have to take a grinding wheel to those jagged edges though.
Heres the swingarm with the stock shocks on it... i threw it right there just so i could get my mind flowing with some ideas ;D
the green tape in this pic is where i plan to run some bracing... will be a rear hoop and bracing between the top shock mounts for stiffness.
Just take a look at this motor! so clean ;D
cant beat the old tools... rockwell/delta press drill and scrawl saw... both have new motors. drill press will be used to drill out the rotor (as well as million other things) and scrawl saw will be used when i make some new mounts and brackets and things (such as the top motor mount... will make a new one out of alloy stock.
heres a pic of the wheels... once i get the money for new spokes and rims, ill lace them up. will be shouldered alloys from buchanan, or i may go the cheapo route and get an xs650 rim for the rear and find something else that fits for the front...
anyone know what rims look like the xs650 shouldered alloys but are 40 hole?
i laughed so hard... I wouldnt have even considered it... but i had seen a picture of this done on a racebike somewhere on the web.
lets say if you have an 80 hole rim, and a 40 hole hub, you could lace that hub up to the rim no problem. it would be just as strong as a 40 hole rim. just with every other hole being unused.
I think what you probably saw was a race hub with the lands between the spoke heads drilled out. Really of little use other than in a pure race environment where every last gram is shaved off.
For a spoked rim, skipping every other spoke would weaken the whole structure. Think of it this way:
if you have a bare, unlaced rim in your hands, you'll find that it's pretty flexible. You can deflect it out of round without exerting much pressure. It's the cross tension of the spokes that give the whole wheel assembly it's strength. That tension is applied to the rim at the spoke nipples, I'd be awfully worried about the metal on either side of the loaded area having a hole. That wouldn't leave much material to stand up to the forces it would encounter. Having a spoke nipple (or 10!!) tear out in a corner would be bad....
agreed with everything swagger says, plus the chances of being able to get that wheel balanced and trued are going to be next to impossible, your spokes will all be diff length, and front end whoble will happen... plus it will look ghetto man
Spoke holes in rim are set in groups of four to meet hub at specific angle.
36 hole, 9 groups, 40 hole 10 groups
You would have to leave out 2 spokes from each side of hub, it may be possible if you re-drill some holes. (but that WOULD weaken rim)
If it was for a static display, maybe, to ride, no way
I have a WM3, 18"x40 hole genuine Borrani made in Italy (but I'm not selling it)
You would be much better off swapping axle and bearings in 350 wheel to fit 450 forks, it really doesn't need extra strength (and weight) of 450 wheel
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