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What model and size rubbers are those? I'm in the market for some one size up tires on my 360, current have a good pair of stock ties but they look tiny. I wonder if handing is improved when going from let's say a 100 rear to a 110? Crazy pj what do you think?
No it isn't unless you change rims.
Even fitting 90/90 and 110/90 will make bike handle worse than stock
Stock rims will work with those tyre sizes but bike is way more 'twitchy' and makes cornering more difficult unless you like leaning way over (then stuff drags on the floor and you need to do other modifications)
Using stock inch sizes or 80/90 f, 90/90 r can improve handling ove 30+ yr old tyres
The best handling will be with WM3 rims front and rear then 90/90 front 110/90 rear (going from 1.60" front rim and 1.85" rear to 2.15" both ends)
No it isn't unless you change rims.
The best handling will be with WM3 rims front and rear then 90/90 front 110/90 rear (going from 1.60" front rim and 1.85" rear to 2.15" both ends)
Jugs soaking in the kitchen sink?? Why not?
This clay stuff is baked on here like sandstone. There was enough of it in between the center holes in the casting and on the fins to make me think the lack of surface area and overheating was probably an issue with this engine.
Hardest thing I've ever had to clean. Wish I had taken before pictures
Haha I did the exact same thing last night, luckily my sink is made of old porcelain otherwise I might have broken it when the whole thing slipped out of my hands
Yah, it was response to bubonics question 8)
I don't know why the clay stuff gets baked in so hard, probably turns into 'pottery' It happens in Britain as well so must be the motor design not local conditions?
Having the air passage between cylinder and cam chain tunnel blocked is very very common, you'll probably find casting 'flash' that needs removing
Usually I use a sharpend up electrical screwdriver to chip 'pottery' out then soak and scrub (followed by sand/bead blasting when I can)
Removing the casting flash can be 'quite challenging' as it's a narrow passage plus it way down 'in there'
Thanks for the tip. I've been racking my brain trying to think of something to clean with besides my too-wide wire brushes. Didn't think of the pistol cleaning kit for some reason
Thanks, I wanted to be sure. When I went to remove the clutch adjustment assembly from the spare engine to replace this broken one, it had no ball bearing, it looked like the PO had just been riding on the end of the adjustment bolt instead. Eeek
They didn't all make it out alive... The screws on the right crankcase after some removal difficulty. The ones that didn't come out easy stripped all to hell, so I drilled the heads out a little, hammered a Phillips head in until stripping wasn't an option and got them off. Fun stuff. I'm really just trying to get in there to clean the oil filter. Everything looks good, the clutch looks to be in good shape and everything is very clean and not worn at all.
I hope this is also the case when I get down into the head...
Been doing some sandblasting at work. I'm a crew chief on KC-135Rs in the air national guard and we have some amazing sandblasting cabinets and a huge painting booth. I've been doing some blasting on my lunch breaks...
Update: got into the carbs today. The bad news is a previous owner really did some damage to jets, diaphragms, etc.
the good news is that I have a good set of spare carb bodies and enough good spare parts to rebuild them... Three good diaphragms, a couple good float bowl o-rings... Also, the girlfriend got me an ultrasonic parts washer for Christmas (which is amazing) so the disassembled carbs will be cleaned post-crimbus. There were ripped diaphragms, stripped jets, gunky waxy gasket material...
Notice the little bolt that doesn't sit flush on the backing plate... And the attempt at applying filler to seal the inevitable air leak... Interesting solution.
You guys have any advice on ultrasonic cleaning agents? I've been using tap water and a diluted ZEP citrus degreaser with good results, but I expected better.
The ultrasonic cleaner has already justified it's existence by cleaning the girlfriend's jewelry
I disassembled and put each part through at least 20-30 minutes of US cleaning. The cleaning was really just to get at any recesses or nooks I couldn't access and to clean the used jets, however it also had the positive side effect of cleaning up the outsides a bit.
Once taking the bowls and bodies out of the cleaner I sprayed it with compressed air to dry and coated them with wd40, I then rubbed with steel wool, then one more dip in the cleaner to get rid of any steel fibers and THEN another blast of air and a generous coat of wd40. Then cleaned as well as I could with a shop rag, they look pretty good.
Nasty screw heads got wire wheeled.
I abandoned the carb body with the stuck jet, I couldn't get the thing out and didn't feel like drilling since I had a spare... If anyone needs some extra carb bodies, let me know.
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