lukeglasso said:Mate awesome stuff thank you, that's very reassuring. I will expect the stator over the coming days when I kick the bike over and run a voltmeter over it. Thank you for the pictures as well.
I was just looking at Sonreir's barebones loom but his custom jobs definitely look like the way to go. I will look at what you have suggested as its proven for our bikes already.
1sttimer said:Yeah my biggest problem with the bike has been charging. The stators go bad over time for some reason, and Sonreir and I have come to the conclusion over some time that a new stator is probably my best bet. Right now I can ride my bike for about 30 miles then the lights start to dim and stuff.
lukeglasso said:Oh wow, have you tried a new stator on your bike yet or replacing them after a period of time? Would be interesting to see the voltage drop over that 30mins on a digital display vs the purchase of a new stator. Do you find that keep the bike at a higher Rev will keep the lights functioning longer?
1sttimer said:I'm saving to buy a ricks stator. Still running on the stock unit. I live 2 miles from work so one charge lasts me a week
Yep, there's kind of a trial and error process with the wires on your stator going to your R/R and getting the pink wire in the right position is the key.
Did I mention that I still have a few loose ends to wrap up on my 175?
lukeglasso said:Noted taken thanks man. On the other hand what is left to wrap up?
Thanks Texasstar, 1sttimer referred me to your page also and have already copied some of your processes. Much to learn from you guys. Im just trying the get the motor at least kicked over before moving forward. Would you both suggest not only kicking over but at least a ride up the street to test the gears before stripping down?
60k on a 200 is a well loved bike...we just ran through the gears on the bench.1sttimer said:FYI 60k kilos is a lot of wear, but sometimes I hear you actually want a bike with lots of miles because it has stood the test and been kept running. This compared to a bike with 2k on the clock that has just been sitting.
Texasstar said:60k on a 200 is a well loved bike...we just ran through the gears on the bench.
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1sttimer said:You should be able to run through the gears with the motor out of the bike. If it needs nudging you can mount the engine, connect the rear wheel with the chain and turn the back wheel manually with your hand to engage the transmission.
Set the motor on the edge of a table with about 3" of the left side of the motor hanging off the table. Give yourself enough room to actuate the shift lever. Then give it a go.
BarnBurner said:Tank looks much better! I just read up on deox-c and it sounds a lot like the "Evapo-Rust" and Metal Rescue" products I've used in the past to get rust out of a tank. It's great when a biodegradable, nontoxic chemical can actually do the job well. It looks like some of your rust was pretty deep into the tank metal. I'd definitely do a double check for any pinholes before painting.
As for the wiring harness - you should be fine doing it yourself. I have almost no previous electrical experience other than wiring a few outlets around my house and I wired up my CL350 using a simplified diagram I put together and with brand new 14 gauge wire, bullet connectors and abrasive-resistant sheathing. It performs and looks great. It really wasn't that hard once I figured out my diagram. I just laid out wire on the bike from component to component to be sure the lengths were right, then cut and sheathed everything together, then spent some time crimping the connectors while watching a movie. A tip I will add is get a proper crimper like the one from VintageConnections.com. Before I had made my new harness I had used a cheap crimper that I had laying around and a few of those terminals ended up coming loose from the wire. The ones done with the new crimper are solid.