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Or garb a cooler from a Kawasaki 600 or similar. CB900 also had an oil cooler but that's a bit wider. Also Lockhardt Phillips used to sell small universal coolers. Didn't some VWs have an external cooler?
And you could think about maybe mounting it like a Britten under the seat if you can get the airflow through it.
Or garb a cooler from a Kawasaki 600 or similar. CB900 also had an oil cooler but that's a bit wider. Also Lockhardt Phillips used to sell small universal coolers. Didn't some VWs have an external cooler?
And you could think about maybe mounting it like a Britten under the seat if you can get the airflow through it.
thanks Teazer we are going to put it on Victoria the next engine we build we want to build a max torque engine...have you seen torque numbers on a 209cc 175 like ours with 20 ftlbs of torque? On another note..what is the downside of using the Suzuki dual overhead cam head that has been used on the cr77 replica? Now that we have a TIG welder it opens up all kinds of possibilities.
On another note..what is the downside of using the Suzuki dual overhead cam head that has been used on the cr77 replica? Now that we have a TIG welder it opens up all kinds of possibilities.
Here is a cb450 and another gs400 Suzuki conversion conversion to make a cr77 http://www.chopcult.com/news/blogs/cr77-doppelgangers09-13-12-09-40-07.html
trick stuff there yum yum and what awesome project that would be !
back in the day when my buddy was racing 1015cc superbikes one of the big issues on the kwaker was cam chain tensioner woes from faded memory i think it was something to do with the center top idler dealy..any way with a proven later model design like the suzi those type of issues were probably long ago coverd
but just to spin your brains you should look at a composite/hybrid system like on some later model dohc machines .my tl1000r uses it and it is a very reliable lashup without the problems that can be associated with a great long chain run
although to keep the gears on the cams at a reasonable size the head really needs to be of a quite narrow included valve angle such has been adopted on most all recent performance dohc's
but you need more stuff upstairs boiling around !@!
oh and one bonus is the sound the gears make !
XB has a nice pic there. CBR600 looks similar as do most modern bikes.
GS top end is only 2 valves per cylinder so all you get is more capacity which is fine on a 54mm stroke CB72/77 but a bit over square for a 41mm stoke. I have seen >20hp but don't take a lot of notice of the torque numbers as long as the curve looks good and keeps going up. For lots of torque at less crazy revs, go for larger capacity 57mm and high compression with smallish ports and pipes.
You try a longer stroke like a CR93 but that motor is based off the older Cx92/95 125/150 motors with cam drive at the side and predates the CB96 125/160 motor design. Nothing to stop you machining the crank to take it to 43mm or longer stroke. You could probably get as far as 45mm or maybe even longer with enough work and new rods.
Focus on reducing friction and wasted energy - everywhere. be like Geoff Monty and throw out wheel bearing dust seals to minimize friction if you can deal with replacing bearings are regular intervals.
A low piston crown with steeper valve angles would potentially make for a more efficient combustion chamber and would reduce the surface area: volume ratio.
oh one minor detail the lashup like i posted, to do a conversion would require backwards profiles on the lobes
it makes the cams spin the opposite direction than a single long chain drive lash
There is not a good tutorial on installing an oil cooler on a cb175 on the web. So feel free to correct me...Oil flow diagram for a cb175 is as follows
Now the oil travels into the oil guide to the centripetal?? Centrifugal??? Filter then out the filter back through the oil guide to the upper rear studs and crank bearing like the cb160 diagram
That little spring loaded part in the outer cover is critical. If it doesn't "seal" reasonably well against the rotor, oil leaks out and starves the top end. We lost a top end at Road America with that.
And of course you are using the larger bore CB200 pump.
What I did was to drill in at the two spots along the front face of that oil gallery to take pipe fittings and then drilled and plugged it between the two.
That little spring loaded part in the outer cover is critical. If it doesn't "seal" reasonably well against the rotor, oil leaks out and starves the top end. We lost a top end at Road America with that.
And of course you are using the larger bore CB200 pump.
What I did was to drill in at the two spots along the front face of that oil gallery to take pipe fittings and then drilled and plugged it between the two.
Thanks Teazer that is easier than what I was thinking. That cb200 pump mod was a must in my opinion it doesn't take very long to get oil to the top of the engine. That spring in this particular engine is seized and I can see how that would be a real bummer to loose a new engine to that spring in the oil guide!!! Did you have any concern grabbing unfiltered oil going into the oil cooler?
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