‘65 Triumph T120R Bobber - “Ticket To Ride”

Look at BMIKarts for a 16" rim. Prices are great, but shipping may kill any savings. They bought a bunch of stuff at the Dixie sale. $20 for a new 16" 40 spoke drop center rim. I've bought a lot of Sportster and chopper stuff from them in the last year and all has been good. A couple of years back I saw a Triumph 650 chop with front and rear Sportster hubs. Running dual disk on the front and single disk on the rear.
 
Look at BMIKarts for a 16" rim. Prices are great, but shipping may kill any savings. They bought a bunch of stuff at the Dixie sale. $20 for a new 16" 40 spoke drop center rim. I've bought a lot of Sportster and chopper stuff from them in the last year and all has been good. A couple of years back I saw a Triumph 650 chop with front and rear Sportster hubs. Running dual disk on the front and single disk on the rear.
They have a Black 16x3 40 spoke rim for $65 which isn't bad at all anyway... but those chrome $20 rims are a STEAL. I might grab the black one and a pair of $20 rims for a future project. SHipping isn't free but its not awful. Thanks for the heads up...
 
New front wheel and big rotors from TC Bros. for the front. Parts rolling in now for this front end. Need to temp mount these rotors and check for fit with the calipers and cross my fingers that I don’t need to do any fabrication other than making spacers
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I managed to get one caliper bracket made I had to move the caliper inward 1/4” and radially outward for the 320mm rotor. I went through 4 prototypes. One cardboard and 3 3D printed ones to finally nail it.

I’ll make another bracket later tonight and get them powder coated. Then I’ll move onto the triple trees. And get a tire on this wheel this week.

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No pics today. But, I dropped off the front wheel to get a tire installed. Being Harley sizes I was a little limited in selection and I didn't want a vintage style tire because they suck and I don't want you guys to pick on me for Firestones. So I went with Dunlop American Elite tires.

Having dude pull the bearings out of the hub I'm gonna use so that I can replace them and powdercoat the hub.... I can't get them sons-a-bitches out to save my life and I'm not spending $80 to get a proper bearing puller. I tried fabricating one and it didn't work so man with tools to the rescue. my Wheel guy went ahead and ordered my spokes from Buchanan to lace the inbound 16x3 wheel to the Harley front hub. So I'm guessing my wheels will be done in another week. And while I'm waiting for my hard tail to get back in stock I can shop around for a rear brake caliper and rotor, Oil tank, seat and battery box. I have the bearings, seals, and stuff I need to rebuild the bottom end inbound. Need to go vapor blast the cases. Hoping I can have a rolling chassis and the engine mostly done by the end of the month so that I can really get an idea of where to head with the design part of the build.
 
So I pressed out the stem from the bottom yoke and cleaned up the casting seam, powder coated, and pressed in the new stem I got from Cognito Moto.
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The top yoke needed its stem hole enlarged to 28mm to accommodate the lower stem nut so I got a little help from my CNC wielding buddy Mike.
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The crazy combination of parts for the front end are coming along and with a bit of finesse are going to work well.

My hardtail is inbound as well.
 
I have the engine cases stripped down and ready for new bearings and seals after I vapor hone them.
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I also built an air dryer for my shop air. Tired of fighting moisture in my lines. I’ll add a desiccant dryer in the near future to it also.
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ive been struggling with the same issue. how effective is that at cooling?
 
Seems to do pretty good. I did a good bit of bead blasting today and the moisture trap at the blasting cabinet would normally need to be purged every 10 min or so on a hot day like today. But even after a 30 min session the trap was empty and my gun stayed clear and clog free. So, I’d say very good I assume it’ll be all I need after I add the desiccant filter.
 
Should work well, but you'll need something to catch the nasty from each blow-down valve.
Working on it, think i'll plumb a hose from each to a catch can. Need to relocate my tank drain and put a timer on that too to keep the tank from building water in it... that's the nasty, filthy stuff.
 
From experience, just going to a can is going to blow it back in your face. Best to some kind of funnel leading to a drain.
 
Got the Front end loose assembled today. A bit fussy to go together as tolerances are pretty tight. But it went.
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Now I’ve got a bit of a problem with my front wheel. I can’t get a tire on it. I’ve tried a Dunlop and a Shinko and neither will go on. And that’s using a commercial pneumatic tire changer. It’s a Moto Iron wheel from TC Bros and while it looks like a nice quality rim the last couple of inches of bead just will not stretch over the rim lip. I’m not sure what to do... I either need to try another shop with a different tire machine and see if another machine can muscle the bead on or send the wheel back to TC Bros and either have them put a tire on it if they can and send it back or just refund me and try another rim. My wheel guy changes tires on 4-6 bikes a day and said he’s never had a tire not go on.
 
A freshly powder coated wheel hub. The bearings in this one were Brutal. I gave up and had a shop pull them out. New ones inbound. My spokes and rim arrived. So as soon as my bearings get here I’ll take this out to get laced up. I also nickel plated a bunch of bolts and stuff for the engine rebuild. Nothing funky going back in there.
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I’m still waiting for a bunch of parts to roll in. But I did manage to bead blast and paint the cylinder. Normally I’d powder coat this but whatever paint that Triumph used back in the ‘60s I is impervious to chemical stripping and media blasting. I could only blast off about 90%. So VHT epoxy to the rescue. Works great here and not nearly as fragile as most engine paints.
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