1972 cb/cl 100

Would the cam being one tooth off cause the bike to not shut off? I took it for a test ride, ran great through all the gears and throttle positions, just won't stop running with out rolling on the throttle after the switches are in the off position.
 
Tried moving the cam chain. In moved one tooth in the direction needed, it put the timing mark the same distance away, but on the other side of the mark. I did find that the tensioner screw only moved a little bit back and forth when the lock nut is loosened. Should I use force to move it more, or is it only meant to move a little bit. Sorry for the noob questions, I'm still learning every time I work on this thing.
 
Took the generator off to take a look at the cam chain tensioner adjusting screw. It was jammed down all the way, and the tensioner was loose. I was able to get it free and reset the tension. Changed the oil and buttoned it up. It ran good with less noise, and turned off with the switch. Today I hope reset the timing with a strobe.
aca9de723d1fda40b835b4b4e63a1b54.jpg
I couldn't get good pics inside because my hands were full of oil and I didn't have enough light.
 
JB77 said:
Crazyp,
eba54b26cc17589a488e525a9c691c41.jpg
It has the circle. I zoomed in on the original picture, it is lined up with the indent on the head. Do you think it on a tooth off?
Click to expand...

That looks fine, no need to move from there. I probably should have been more specific, the 'dot' lines up with cylinder centerline so not 'vertical'

Tensioner only moves about 3mm when it's working properly. Initially, it will move about 10~12 mm after an engine build
'Up' is tensioned, pushing it down loosens the tensioner to make assembly easier
Should have read ALL your post before making above statement ;D
 
Hey I'm new to the forum. Found it by searching for the problems with my 1972 Cl100. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has posted. Mine is getting there!
Two issues I'm having now if anyone has advice.
-Bogging down on throttle at about 1/2 pull, shuts down at full pull.
-Engine gets really, really hot. Smoking hot. Like whoa hot. The bike sate for a long time disassembled and I'm thinking some old oil could have clogged the oil passageway. I checked the oil pump and it appears to be in good shape. Could a clogged passage cause the overheating?

Thanks again, this place looks great!

Edit:
Should have mentioned that I have the standard jet in, and the float height set to factory specs. Also new gas and good compression
 
OldBikeSailor said:
Hey I'm new to the forum. Found it by searching for the problems with my 1972 Cl100. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has posted. Mine is getting there!
Two issues I'm having now if anyone has advice.
-Bogging down on throttle at about 1/2 pull, shuts down at full pull.
-Engine gets really, really hot. Smoking hot. Like whoa hot. The bike sate for a long time disassembled and I'm thinking some old oil could have clogged the oil passageway. I checked the oil pump and it appears to be in good shape. Could a clogged passage cause the overheating?
Thanks again, this place looks great!

Edit:
Should have mentioned that I have the standard jet in, and the float height set to factory specs. Also new gas and good compression
Click to expand...

Check timing and advancer for proper operation. Also check main jet for clog.
 
yep clean and grease it. ensure smooth action. After you set timing w strobe, have a helper give the throttle a quick twist and you will see it advance smoothly on the marks. Once the throttle is released the advance will drop back to normal position.

And start your own thread. Just for good etiquette. ;)

Link to my 72 CL100 resto-mod. I worked over the advancer on page 14.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=65898.msg755100#msg755100
 
OldBikeSailor said:
Could a clogged passage cause the overheating?
Click to expand...

Nope, it's almost certainly ignition timing. Clogged oil jet would result in a seized cam bearing PDQ
 
crazypj said:
Nope, it's almost certainly ignition timing. Clogged oil jet would result in a seized cam bearing PDQ
Click to expand...

When I said "clogged main jet" I meant in carburetor. Sorry if this caused confusion.
 
OldBikeSailor said:
Thanks for the replies! Ill make my own thread with some updates, sorry to the OP for the unintentional hijack!
Click to expand...
Good luck with your cl. If you read my whole thread, which can get boring at times , the other members have given some great info on advance, and carb tuning.
 
This article is from last year but I just came across it. Pretty good read about a '71 Cl100.
http://lanesplitter.jalopnik.com/how-i-rebuilt-an-extremely-sketchy-honda-cl100-scramble-1720836632
 
So I realized that my issue with the cam chain tensioner was that the po, or whoever had this thing opened up before him put the wrong circle clip in, and from what I could see forgot the two 6mm washers that were needed on the adjusting screw. I drained the oil, opened her up and replaced the missing parts. I then reset the tension on the cam chain, rechecked static timing, replaced the old screws with Allen head stainless bolts, and refilled the oil. I went to fire it up, and it feels like it has very low compression, or like the motor is flooded. I couldn't get it to start. The spark plug was a little wet with oil when I pulled it. Before today, even with the loose chain the bike always started. Any thoughts on where I should start? I'm going to try to find a compression tester to make sure something didn't go wrong with the piston. I didn't mess with any internals except the cam chain tensioner.
 

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Re-check cam timing, I think it's possible for chain to 'drop' and move a tooth when tensioner is removed
 
I did check cam timing. I had the cam cover off so I could check it before fully buttoning everything up and trying to start it. Thanks for the response. I think I might have a grounding or pinched wire issue from removing the stator. I'm going to retrace my steps this weekend and check all the connections and wires. If it's not that I'm not sure what step to take next.
 
Remove sprocket cover and check stator wires. The points wire is normally pretty 'safe'
 
As per Crazy's suggestions, I took the stator cover off and checked all the wires. The neutral switch wire was pinched but operational, everything else looked good. So I went back and re static timed the little cl motor. After resting my points to where they want to be now that the cam chain is the proper tightness, the bike started. I had static timed it last week and am not sure why it was so off, but happy to have it start. I plan to strobe it this weekend and fully set the timing. I'm very thankful for this forum and it's members for the great information and help.
 
You may have had points wire shorting out as there isn't a lot of clearance under cover.
It's pretty easy to do, ask any CB360 owner ;)
 
I hadn't worked on the little 100 for a while. I have a couple updates. I ordered a set of Hagon shocks from Dave Quinn, and installed them. I checked the timing with a strobe and it checked out proper. Discovered the PO didn't wire the key and kill switch properly, so I figured that out. I just have a little carb tweaking to do, but otherwise it seems good to go for the summer.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 
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