I've got some updates to post.
I got all of the engine bits painted and cured.
Then came reassembly. The bottom end and the cylinders went smoothly. Somehow I remembered where everything went.
When I got to the top end, I hit my first problem. I had to press the new oil metering rod into the end of the exhaust cam. When I did that, it expanded the outside diameter of the end of the cam just enough so the new bearing sleeve wouldn't fit on it anymore. It had to be machined again.
Then, after I got the entire head reassembled, I found that the cams were very hard to spin. The intake cam wasn't too hard but it should have spun freely. I found that the cam covers were clamping up on the cam slightly, causing it to bind. I replaced the aftermarket paper cam cover gasket with a slightly thicker OEM gasket and it spun freely. The exhaust cam was another matter. I found that I could not get any clearance on the exhaust valves. The cam was always pushing the valves open slightly. No wonder it was so hard to turn. The exhaust valves were too long! This happened last time I rebuilt the engine. When the valve seats are recut, it moves the valve up into the head just a little bit, but that is enough to loose all of your clearance. I told the guy that did the head work for me about this, but I guess he measured wrong or something.
Anyway, the problem was easier to fix than I thought. I took the head over to my mechanic friend's shop and we figured out how much they needed to be shortened by (about 0.030 inches). Then we took them up to the local NAPA auto parts store. They had a machine shop in the back with a special grinder just for valves. After a couple minutes of grinding and measuring, both valves were the correct length and the clearance was perfect.
I was finally able to finish assembling the engine and get it back in the bike.