1972 Honda CL450 Scrambler Refurb

The wheels look great man.. Did you order the wheels and spokes from the same place?
Yes. Both from Buchanan's ( https://www.buchananspokes.com/ ). I sent the wheel hubs, new tires, new tubes and new rim strips to them and they built the wheels for me and sent them back. I picked out the rims and spokes that I wanted from what they offered and included a list of everything I wanted in the box. They called me when they received it and we went over the order. They were really good to work with and I'm super happy with the wheels.

I got to take it out for a ride on Monday, and it may be my imagination, but the bike seems to ride a lot smoother.
 
Yes. Both from Buchanan's ( https://www.buchananspokes.com/ ). I sent the wheel hubs, new tires, new tubes and new rim strips to them and they built the wheels for me and sent them back. I picked out the rims and spokes that I wanted from what they offered and included a list of everything I wanted in the box. They called me when they received it and we went over the order. They were really good to work with and I'm super happy with the wheels.

I got to take it out for a ride on Monday, and it may be my imagination, but the bike seems to ride a lot smoother.
Man, thank you very much for this information. I am building a little 200T honda and the thing that has stalled me out a bit has been getting the wheels I want built. The fact that you send them everything and they build the wheels is great, I will be in contact with Buchanan's today or tomorrow and let you know what I come up with!
 
Man, thank you very much for this information. I am building a little 200T honda and the thing that has stalled me out a bit has been getting the wheels I want built. The fact that you send them everything and they build the wheels is great, I will be in contact with Buchanan's today or tomorrow and let you know what I come up with!
Beware, it isn't cheap. But like you, I didn't really know where else to go. The local bike mechanic that I usually go to doesn't build wheels anymore and just sends his to Buchanan's as well. All-in-all I'm happy to spend the money for the quality parts and work and convenience.
 
Over the years I have made many modifictions to the electrical system. New headlight, blinkers, regulator/rectifier, coils, coil power relay mod, etc. But every time I changed something, I just hacked up the old wiring harness. Even when I rebuilt the bike after the wreck in 2012, and rewrapped the wiring harness, I still reused the old wires and connectors.

Not this time. I have had numerous problems with the old connectors falling apart and failing. This time, I decided to replace every bit of wiring and as many of the old electrical components as I could. I started off by making a plan. I took my old wiring diagram, on which I tried to document all of the hacks I've made, and then completely redrew. I added all of the new parts I would be installing. These included new electronic speedo and tach, new coils, new relays, new reg/rect, horn, and key.

The old wiring diagram:
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The new wiring diagram:
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This was super helpful in allowing me to figure out how many of each type of connector I needed, as well as all of the wire colors and lengths.

I tried to stay as close to the original color scheme as possible while removing a little bit of the confusing original runs, and adding in all of the new parts. I then ordered a whole bunch of wires and connectors from Matthew at Sparck Moto / Vintage Connections. He had everything I needed. I also bought a nice crimping tool for the connectors which came in very handy.

First I had to make a new bracket for the new coils. I made it out of sheets of aluminum that I bent up and them JB welded together. The JB Weld was really just there to hold it together until I put the bolts in. The coil bracket also serves as the mounting point for the turn signal relay and the coil power relay. The coil power relay was added so that the coil power doesn't have to travel up into the handlebar kill switch and back to the coils, the kill switch just controls the relay which has clean power from the battery. I also installed new plug wires and caps.

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After that, I installed my new electronic speedometer and tachometer from Daytona (https://daytona-europe.com/en/13-velona-speedometerstachometers). These things are really nice. So far I have been very impressed. I had to make a new gauge bracket out of aluminum sheet which bolts to the triple tree. I also relocated the key up to the gauge cluster. In addition to the new gauges, I also bought a new left hand control (clutch, turn, horn) and a reconditioned right hand control (brake, kill, headlight, start). I was not able to find any new right hand controls with the drum brake lever integrated.

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Daytona sells an electronic speedometer pulse pickup that mounts into the stock speedo driver gear on the front wheel (https://daytona-europe.com/en/senso...pulse-converter-dia15-insert-87143-87143.html). However, it looked kind of weird just running a wire down the front fork, so I used a thick wire hanger and some heat shrink to simulate the original speedometer cable running from the handlebars down to the wheel.

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Once I had all of the major components installed, I started running the wires. At first I just ran them with some extra length and held them in place temporarily with twist ties and loose zip ties.

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Once I had all of the wire runs laid out I tightened up the zip ties, marked where I wanted the connectors to go and pulled the rough harness off of the bike.
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Then I wrapped it with some fabric harness tape.
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I added the some braided sleeving to protect the wires and put a piece of heat shrink at the end of each run to keep the sleeving and tape from unraveling.

Finally, I put the harness back on the bike, cut the wires to length, installed the connectors, and used a small label printer to make little labels for each connector that matches the wire name on the wiring diagram I made.

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I am very happy with how it turned out and so far I have had zero electrical issues since.
 
That wiring job is impressive and super clean man. The trick with the wire hanger to simulate the speedo cable was a damn good idea
 
I was just thinking about how nostalgic it makes me feel to watch you rebuild a bike that I watched you build for the first time when I joined DTT. I'm glad your doing this and posting the updates.
 
Thank you for the compliments. As I said at the beginning of this thread, my plan is to do it right this time around. Even if it takes awhile and cost more. I am very happy with how the wiring turned out. Now, the only electrical component on the bike that hasn't been replaced or refurbished is the alternator. I haven't had any issues with that and I hope it stays that way. With all of the lights converted to LEDs, it provides ample power.

The major item left to do is the paint. I plan on having the frame and many of the parts powder coated. But, I want to get everything sorted before then so that I do not have to take it apart again.

To that end, lately I have been working to get the carbs dialed in. I think they are pretty close, but my ability to tune carbs is a bit sketchy so I have been educating myself. As I was fiddling with them, I decided to double check the timing in case something had changed since I last had the engine apart. I have an electronic ignition system from Charlie's Place installed. As I was looking at the mechanical advance mechanism, I noticed the rotor with the magnets had some significant play to it. When I took it out I found that the rotor had deformed where it contacts the advance weight arms just like my old system from PAMCO.

In the picture below, the stock rotor (steel) for the original points system is on the left, the PAMCO rotor (aluminum) is in the center, and the Charlie's Place rotor (aluminum) is on the right.
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You can see that the two aluminum rotors have significant wear from the advance weight arms, making the slots that they sit in wider. This allows the rotor to bounce around about 5 degrees.

I contacted Charlie's Place and he agreed to sell me a new rotor. I had to get a new plate too, because he changed the design a little. But I was able to reuse the old pickups. I got that reinstalled and the timing set dead nuts. It is running very well now.

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I have a feeling the same thing will eventually happen to this one, but it is working well now. Since PAMCO doesn't seem to be in business anymore, the only electronic ignition system I have been able to find for the CB450s that has an electronic advance is from a German company and is fairly expensive at $440 (https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsystem-3/en/digital-ignition-zdg-3-23-for-honda-cb450-500t.html). I also don't feel like trying to mount the external computer box at the moment.

I did see that Common Motor came out with their own system. It still uses the mechanical advance, but it uses the stock steel rotor. That would be better, but their system requires you to install two external electronics boxes.

For now I will keep this system and continue on with the rebuild. I was able to go on a nice long 2 hour ride this weekend and the bike performed very well. Right now I only have two complaints.

1) It stalled when coming to a stop at a red light, two different times. It fired right back up, so I don't know what happened.
2) It doesn't have as much engine braking as I would like. However I think I just need to keep it in a lower gear as that seemed to help. I tend to use engine braking to gently slow the bike as I go into turns, but at higher gears/lower revs, the bike didn't really slow down and I had to use the brakes.

The engine braking issue may also just be from me getting spoiled riding the Z900RS that I bought a couple of years ago.
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These two bikes are exactly 50 years apart and they are like night and day.
 
Engine braking is largely a product of engine compression. The z900 is probably around 230psi compression and the CL is probably around 150psi.
 
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