1974 Honda CB360 Garage Find Cafe Build

trek97 said:
Holy shit dude! Im sorry I cant help w the issue. But now you got me scared to death! I am halfway through the complete teardown and rebuild on my own engine!

Just make sure you are bagging and tagging everything down to the washer, read and re read your manuals and take tons of pictures. I can't tell you how many times I went back to look at my pics.
 
I'm not sure "screwed" is the correct word, but all those parts will definitely need to be replace or repaired.

Probably easiest to replace everything, but if you're after upgrades you can go get the cam reground, rocker arms resurfaced, and even consider a roller bearing upgrade for the head and rocker box. That much wear will almost definitely require a thicker thrust washer, too. Make sure to spec out the stem thickness on the valves as well. Lack of oil can cause them and/or the guides to wear, too.

The most important thing to do is to figure out why it was starved of oil. Is the pickup clean and clear? All o-rings in place? Oil galleys (especially those in and leading to/from the cylinder jugs) clear?
 
OUCH MAN ! dam hate to say it but that there is ugly ! Wish you the best of luck getting it back on the road and im sure theres more then enough guys on here that can help you !
 
You might want to find a low mileage replacement motor, so you can get this thing back on the road.

Then, take your blown top end motor, and slowly build it up with go fast parts.
 
Don't worry too much, man. If you're a 360 owner you've either been there or will be there soon enough. :D

Here's my own top end after running without enough oil for a few miles:
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77174_488956025158_5986630_n.jpg


73396_492634555158_2296413_n.jpg
 
Sonreir said:
I'm not sure "screwed" is the correct word, but all those parts will definitely need to be replace or repaired.

Probably easiest to replace everything, but if you're after upgrades you can go get the cam reground, rocker arms resurfaced, and even consider a roller bearing upgrade for the head and rocker box. That much wear will almost definitely require a thicker thrust washer, too. Make sure to spec out the stem thickness on the valves as well. Lack of oil can cause them and/or the guides to wear, too.

The most important thing to do is to figure out why it was starved of oil. Is the pickup clean and clear? All o-rings in place? Oil galleys (especially those in and leading to/from the cylinder jugs) clear?

I will probably just replace everything but yeah, gotta figure out why first. I am gonna drain the oil and see if I can see anything underneath that cover when I get home. Are there any obvious things I can/should look for? I cleaned it all out when I put my gasket kit on and everything should be in place.
 
Definitely.

When you pull the right crank case, there is a spring-loaded piece attached to the inside of the case. Ensure it moved freely and compresses in and out.

Next, check the oil pump idler gear and make sure it's engages with the oil pump. This part is easy to get wrong and people not familiar with the 360 will sometimes get it wrong and just screw the cases down without this gear engaged.

On the oil filter, make sure the cap is in place and not loose at all.

The oil pickup should have all the o-rings in place and after you unbolt it from the lower crank case, it should "pop" when you pull it out of the pump. It's not meant to move easily, either.

After the pickup is removed, pull the screen from the bottom. This needs to be clean and clear of too much debris.

Next check the pump for free movement. If you can find a way to actuate it, the pump should be able to move some fluid from point A to point B without too much speed applied to the gearing.

Under the left crank case, you can see the oil pathway that leads from the cylinder jugs down through the upper crank case. This portion of the galley is largely formed by the left crankcase gasket, so make sure that's in good working order.

Next, the jugs need to come off. The two outside holes toward the intake side of the jugs are what form the pathways for the oil to get up to the head. These need to be clear of pretty much anything aside from the head/cylinder studs.

Finally, blow some compressed air into any and all passageways leading to and from the journals.

Based on the damage, though, I'd put a bet on the problem being on the bottom end. I don't think any oil was getting up there at all.
 
That doesn't look like it was getting any oil?
Check oil pump drive gears
you will have to dismantle oil pump to check rotors they probably had pieces going through them
 
Man that almost looks like dude drained the oil and forgot to put any back in in. Notice how everything is really dry in comparison to Matt's pics?

Either that or the cylinder base gasket got put on backwards. ???
 
frogman said:
Man that almost looks like dude drained the oil and forgot to put any back in in. Notice how everything is really dry in comparison to Matt's pics?

That had crossed my mind, too.
 
Ttrailer it back to shop and remove sump plug when you get there
No oil - he's 110% liable for 'new' parts or (way more expensive) refurb of original parts
 
The Giant Robot Co. said:
Pictures - Check
Video - Check
Beer - Check

Beer helps sooth the pain of most bike related problems... :p :p :p

Good luck

Incidentally and sorry for the off topic question but, as the rebuilder of a CB350 that is soon to be tested for the first time, is the CB350 oil pump the same as the CB360 oil pump?
 
No. 360 oil pump is much more efficient. It's a trochoidal pump whereas the 350 is a plunger style.
 
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