Oh the usual... I bowl, I drive around...
DTT BOTM WINNER
Check out ArtPrimo.com they have both male/female caps and converters. I've used their offerings extensively.
The clear coat ( Spraymax 2k clear in this case) has hardener in it. Basecoats get reducers (1:1), but they never get hardeners or catalysts. Nice try, though.kickracingmotorcycles said:I would stay away from Rattle can paint. It doesn't have hardener in it. Use real paint and it will last forever.
This forum needs a software upgrade so I can have a "like" button.irk miller said:The clear coat ( Spraymax 2k clear in this case) has hardener in it. Basecoats get reducers (1:1), but they never get hardeners or catalysts. Nice try, though.
That's a good point. I often post when I would have otherwise hit a LIKE buttonSONIC. said::
Unrelated note: I disagree about the like button. I'm on a few other forums that have them and I'm not a fan. I feel like it limits the discussion, people just hit like when in the past they would have commented, even if it's just to say "Nice".
Likes are for Facebook and Instagram. Forums are about the involvement.
Sounded mean at idle, but the advance was moving at least 15 degrees beyond max advance and I have no idea why. The ignition is on the crank, so it can't really be an issue with cam timing. You'd try to give it throttle and take off and the bike would just bog and had no power. I'm swapping for another year advancer, which feels like it has stiffer springs, so I hope this fixes it.Sounds mean.
So basically I’m an idiot in this situation. I vapor honed the advancer because it was pretty dark with age and surface rust. Low and behold, I discovered these two timing marks right at the post. They’re really hard to see when the weights are on and the surface rust just makes it worse. Turns out, I was looking for the advance at the two marks above the F and timing it at idle over the single mark between the T and the F. I knew these engines had a relatively flat advance curve, but obviously not that flat. They’re in the neighborhood of 26°, so the post makes sense.Is there any wear on the "stops"? I am assuming it has a mechanical timing arrangement with weights that swing out and strike stops on the backing rotor. Sometimes they get a bit indented where the moving parts strike the relatively static parts. Those can usually be built up with weld to change the amount of mechanical advance
If you set full advanced timing, how retarded is idle?