1978 CB550 Pieces/Parts Hellride

doc_rot

Oh the usual... I bowl, I drive around...
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Check out ArtPrimo.com they have both male/female caps and converters. I've used their offerings extensively.
 

cbrianroll

Member
Rad man! Never heard of Roth paint or aftermarket paint caps. Are the rattle bombs better that typical "glitter" paint?
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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kickracingmotorcycles said:
I would stay away from Rattle can paint. It doesn't have hardener in it. Use real paint and it will last forever.
The clear coat ( Spraymax 2k clear in this case) has hardener in it. Basecoats get reducers (1:1), but they never get hardeners or catalysts. Nice try, though.
 

3DogNate

"You Meet the Nicest People on a Honda"
irk miller said:
The clear coat ( Spraymax 2k clear in this case) has hardener in it. Basecoats get reducers (1:1), but they never get hardeners or catalysts. Nice try, though.
This forum needs a software upgrade so I can have a "like" button.
 

SONICJK

Reminds me of...me No, I'm sure of it. I hate him
::)

Unrelated note: I disagree about the like button. I'm on a few other forums that have them and I'm not a fan. I feel like it limits the discussion, people just hit like when in the past they would have commented, even if it's just to say "Nice".

Likes are for Facebook and Instagram. Forums are about the involvement.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
SONIC. said:
::)

Unrelated note: I disagree about the like button. I'm on a few other forums that have them and I'm not a fan. I feel like it limits the discussion, people just hit like when in the past they would have commented, even if it's just to say "Nice".

Likes are for Facebook and Instagram. Forums are about the involvement.
That's a good point. I often post when I would have otherwise hit a LIKE button
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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Engine and ignition is pretty well dialed in. Hopefully a test ride tomorrow.

https://youtu.be/0v0cd8immKc


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irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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Broke it out of the barn to see if I can sort the ignition out and to vapor hone some parts, while working out final details...

IMG_1278.JPG





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irk miller

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Sounds mean.
Sounded mean at idle, but the advance was moving at least 15 degrees beyond max advance and I have no idea why. The ignition is on the crank, so it can't really be an issue with cam timing. You'd try to give it throttle and take off and the bike would just bog and had no power. I'm swapping for another year advancer, which feels like it has stiffer springs, so I hope this fixes it.
 

teazer

Active Member
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Is there any wear on the "stops"? I am assuming it has a mechanical timing arrangement with weights that swing out and strike stops on the backing rotor. Sometimes they get a bit indented where the moving parts strike the relatively static parts. Those can usually be built up with weld to change the amount of mechanical advance

If you set full advanced timing, how retarded is idle?
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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Is there any wear on the "stops"? I am assuming it has a mechanical timing arrangement with weights that swing out and strike stops on the backing rotor. Sometimes they get a bit indented where the moving parts strike the relatively static parts. Those can usually be built up with weld to change the amount of mechanical advance

If you set full advanced timing, how retarded is idle?
So basically I’m an idiot in this situation. I vapor honed the advancer because it was pretty dark with age and surface rust. Low and behold, I discovered these two timing marks right at the post. They’re really hard to see when the weights are on and the surface rust just makes it worse. Turns out, I was looking for the advance at the two marks above the F and timing it at idle over the single mark between the T and the F. I knew these engines had a relatively flat advance curve, but obviously not that flat. They’re in the neighborhood of 26°, so the post makes sense.

IMG_1285.JPG



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The Jimbonaut

Well-Known Member
Looking good man. This'll sound like a dumb question - what exactly is vapour hone/blast? A friend of mine has a set up that looks similar to yours Irk which I used to clean up my Comstars - it uses glass bead as the media and air as far as I can tell. Is vapour honing the same but with water instead?

Every time I've mentioned vapour honing here in Montreal I get blank stare replies, as if it's called something else around here.
 
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