1982 CB750F...Better Devil

Jimbonaut

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Clutch dampers arrived today (ordered from vintagecb750.com) so got right to it. The kit comes with very clear instructions and you don't need any specialized tools (apart from the clutch bolt "castle" socket) to get the job done. Takes a couple of hours, here's the skinny.

With the clutch removed and basket separated, drill out the rivets on the back of the basket (make sure to protect the needle bearings inside the hub from getting shit all over them) -



and use a chisel to knock off the rivet heads -



Then you can remove the damper housing and gear -



and drive out the rivet stems (I used a flattened masonry nail) -



The old rubber dampers are absolutely not fit for purpose after 38-odd years. No longer rubber, more like hard and brittle plastic that is doing absolutely no damping whatsoever, hence the clutch rattle -



So bin them. Then tap the rivet holes -



install the new dampers, damper housing and gear -



get some blue loctite on the new bolts and install the backing plate -



Job done.

Here's how the engine sounds with the rebuilt clutch (cold start) -


It's absolutely night and day. Frankly I'm amazed - I'd definitely curbed my optimism but damn I'm thrilled with the result. No clutch rattle whosoever - the engine now really does sound brand new.

You got one of these bikes? Clutch rattles? Do yourself a favour and spend the $50 on the kit. Couple of beers and a couple of hours later and your bike will sound way better. Especially if you've rebuilt the engine - these new rubbers make all the difference. If you're in Europe the kit is available from a guy over on cb1100f.net (username - wout) who can ship these from Belgium (I think that's where he's from). Brilliant.
 
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Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
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Carbs and airbox in -



Ditched the ratty old clamps that are an utter nightmare to try and re-use after nearly four decades of abuse, and bought some Norma stainless steel hose clamps. They work a charm, look good and have a 9mm wide band so they're the right size. They need trimming so that you don't see the "tail" of the clamp sticking out. Those are new carb boots too, holy shit they make installing the carbs so much easier than trying to jam them into 40yr old hard rubber. Also installed the headlight fairing I picked up on the cheap. The brackets didn't fit so they needed some manipulating, I'm undecided but will keep it on while it grows on me (or doesn't)



 

chickenStripCharlie

Been Around the Block
Nice! Where did you get those clamps from?
I looked for stainless clamps like that but never found ones narrow enough! They were all much too wide to fit. Let me know! I'll see if I can get some before my carbs go on
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
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Easy Charlie, just google 9mm Norma hose clamps. Think I bought mine on amazon but it was a while ago. You need the 40-60mm ones - they’ll cover all three sizes you need.


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chickenStripCharlie

Been Around the Block
Easy Charlie, just google 9mm Norma hose clamps. Think I bought mine on amazon but it was a while ago. You need the 40-60mm ones - they’ll cover all three sizes you need.


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Thanks! Found them!

I did a search for this months ago but never found them. Adding Norma to the name certainly helped. Thank you!
 

chickenStripCharlie

Been Around the Block
Also, is there room to stuff the throttle cables on the inside the forks? Fit them on the inside bars then down the tank channel, as opposed over the fork tubes then down the tank channel?
 

Jimbonaut

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Not sure I understand your question. The cables route in front of the right fork, then back between the forks, then past the left side of the steering stem, then through the small hole in the cross brace in the frame under the tank.


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Maritime

Over 10,000 Posts
Also, is there room to stuff the throttle cables on the inside the forks? Fit them on the inside bars then down the tank channel, as opposed over the fork tubes then down the tank channel?
This all depends on shape of bars and length of cable etc. if you put to tight of a curve you will bind the cables and they will not work right, also risk having them change throttle settings in tight turns etc.
 

chickenStripCharlie

Been Around the Block
Yeah, probably too tight a curve on the inside of the fork tubes. Gotcha

Hey Jim, do your carbs have the same adjusters like this? Because I'm not sure how one would undo the nut, make adjustments then tighten the nut without moving the adjuster screw. Seems impossible to do on #3 when installed.
 

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chickenStripCharlie

Been Around the Block
Hey Jim what size fuel line are you running on that bad boy?

I got 1/4" and just realized tonight that there is no way to fit it over the brass T at the carbs. It is significantly bigger!

Edit: stock size was apparently 5.5mm which is even smaller than 1/4" and I have no idea how that was ever supposed to fit over the brass T
 
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Jimbonaut

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Did you sort out that fuel line Charlie?

Working part time in the service dept at my local moto dealership (Vespa, Moto Guzzi and Honda), so bike progress recently has been sloooow as molasses in January. But getting closer none the less. Got my seat back (well, foamed) - needed some trimming to snug it up against the tank but it came out great I think.






Needs a bit more of a trim (my seating position needs to move back an inch or so) and then it'll be upholstered.

Hit a bit of a snafu with the rear brake reservoir I bought. The hose attachment on the reservoir is 0.34" (8.7mm) but the OEM hose attachment on the master cylinder is 0.43" (11mm). Any ideas on how to make it happen? I basically need a hose with different end diameters, or some kind of adapter.




Hope you're all enjoying the dog days of summer, gotta make it count.
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
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Yeah, probably too tight a curve on the inside of the fork tubes. Gotcha

Hey Jim, do your carbs have the same adjusters like this? Because I'm not sure how one would undo the nut, make adjustments then tighten the nut without moving the adjuster screw. Seems impossible to do on #3 when installed.
And yeah, you need that tool that turnturtle pointed you towards. I don't know if adjusting your carbs is even possible without it.
 

Jimbonaut

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Can’t take any credit for the seat - I designed it and made the pan but Rod Alves here in Montreal is responsible for the foaming and ultimately the upholstery. He’s something else. Pure professional.


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pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Hot water soak might soften the hose enough for the smaller size to fit the larger barb. At least it isn't under pressure.
 

Jimbonaut

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Still no dice on the brake hose. Hard to find the stuff to begin with. I'll see if I can find some that kinda fits each end - I'll try your suggestion pidjones, thanks.

In other news, ditched the crummy Emgo clutch perch and lever I bought. The lever was too short, and the perch angled incorrectly, towards (and not parallel) to the bars. My mate dug a perch out of his stash along with a lever - with a bit of filing, polishing and paint it came out pretty good, and a decent match with the Nissin brake assembly on the other side of the bars -



Also, rebuilt the starter motor. The +ve terminal on the battery was heating up to the point that the rubber boot on it was melting when I tried starting the bike with a low battery. Was told this was probably due to a dirty starter motor straining to get enough juice to the rebuilt engine. Took the thing apart (you can do so without removing the carbs), cleaned out all the carbon build-up, checked the brushes were in spec and re-installed. Bike fired up fine, no more smoking at the terminal, but then again the battery was fully charged.

Think I'm in the clear but could something else cause that amount of heat at the +ve terminal?


 

chickenStripCharlie

Been Around the Block
What kind of grip is that? Looks like 2 piece?
Some fancy heated grip?

Maybe your cables are just shot? I re did my + cables with 4 gauge and they are FAT. No heating up even when I cranked it long enough to kill the battery the other day lol.

I bought some red 4 gauge on Ebay and crimped terminals on it myself. I used a bench vise and a ball bearing on one side to mimic what a crimp tool does
 

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Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
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Ha, no not heated - the grips are from Highsider.

You could well be right. I do have a new cable but it's so long I couldn't get it to fit. Maybe time to revisit the thing and try again - the old cable could well be struggling under all the weight of betterness in the engine.
 

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