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1 beer and 1 night sleep further:
removed the oil pressure switch to make some required room and used a small adjustable spanner, i guess thats what the translation is, to get rid of the damaged screws.
a few minutes later:
prior to removing i cut away the damaged rubber to have proper access to the screws.
both old intake rubbers where about 3/4 torn.
now need to find the proper allen bolt size to replace the screws with.
Then reinstall the new intake rubbers and this job is done.
Then the carbs need attention, those will probably require another beer and night sleep
Invest in a JIS screwdriver, mine has a metal core so can be used as an impact driver too. The screw head Xs are specific to the JIS criteria and no other crosshead fits as well.
Good work to get those screws out btw. A 10minute job turns into a 2 day job... :/
sometimes it's better to step away and re-think instead of pushing on and end up with much more issues.
i've found some JIS bits in the toolbox which i used to get some of the screws loose. a JIS bit and a small spanner did the tric.
inspected and cleaned the carb's, set the top cover in the black wrinkle, cleaned the breather hoses and clamps.
just need to get me some new screws or allen bolts before placing it back.
think i'll do some more cleaning and painting on the engine and parts prior to installing.
Anybody ever used following on removing dents is the gas tank?
i have some major dents in the gas tank and i've seen some reviews on youtube that it worked.
was cheap so i ordered it, thought give it a try!
I used one of those very successfully on a CB500T tank. You have to be very patient and take your time, don't expect the dent to come out all at once. No matter how careful you are there are times when the hot melt glue won't hold and you don't get a pull, but just keep at it. Round dents work better you may. not be as successful with sharp-edged dents.
little bit of paint, cleaned it and installed it, looks better than it was, hopefully see runs better now too.
before testing it, pulled the exhaust off for an inspection and go over.
Need to take the rust of, need to patch up some small holes, but nothing I can’t fix ( so I hope ).
Anybody have tips on polishing the rust of?
my dent removal set should arrive next week. Give that a try after I have this running again. And need to fix the seat to the frame and be able to still remove it. already have an idea for that, now to execute it.
getting there; using sandpaper, aluminium foil, water and handsoap.
need some more hours of sanding and polishing before they are done.
Luckely i'm not going for the full blown polish, just want to get rid of the rust build up and major blemishes.
I'm already happy that this works, not a big fan off the exhaust tape option.
The hand work looks good but can take ages.
Cheap and easy rust removal is to use molasses.
A mix of between 1:5 to 1:10 of molasses and water depending how bad the rust is. Submerge the pats for a few days and have a look to see how the part is progressing.
Molasses can be had cheap at farm supply stores.
exhaust are back on the bike, rust mostly removed and shiny enough to go back on.
in the mean time i've also modified the inner mudguard to fit under the modified rear fender.
Cut of a piece of the OEM plastic part and made a new fixation for it, also relocated the OEM sticker for the tire pressures.
this way it should guard the electronics for water and dirt and it looks nice and clean on the under side.
removed the dents as much as possible out of the tank, the cheap tools worked rather well.
With the excaption of the glue gun. That blew up, luckely a paint remover heat gun works better .
It's labour intensive, but the top and side are mostly out. Good enough for me, the bike needs some character
now need to repaint the tank
battery maintenance: refilled the battery now on the charger:
moulded in a bolt for the fixation on the frame and sorted the frame to fit it:
now fresh gasoline and fire it up again!!
the make a license plate houlder, found one i like but it's 70 euro's:
think i can make it myself, 6mm round steel and some sheet metal should do the tric. just need to get the materials.