2x stroke street tracker - project coming together slowly.

NoRiders

Member
Busy in the background is what I like to call it.....not much up front but plenty going on behind the scenes so to speak.

Been awaiting the completed delivery of the NSR forks, yokes, wheels etc.

Found out that the NSR125 ran either 17" or 18" rear wheels....I have 17" already....guess what turned up? :/

No matter, I will only run one rear wheel....at any one time ;)

Been playing with engine mount height while keeping an eye on the primary/rear sprocket-swingarm pivot alignment.....it's close enough I reckon.

The bar is sprocket alignment but I also aligned the primary/rear/pivot in an almost horizontal line.

Anyone add anything useful on this issue?



Assembled the front end and slotted in the NSR yokes (new head taper bearings needed) but the wheel and caliper all bolted on as they should....so I now have a new front end which gives it a flatter stance as the forks are a tad shorter, a bit of a subtle change......me likey :)



If the engine stays in this position, which I think will work, then I can make the engine mounts to suit. Is there an engine inclination figure?

The angle of the barrels will be critical for the Microns to hang correctly so a bit of jiggling to do still.

Plenty of head clearance and with the rear set pegs I think the gear shift will work out too...hopefully?



Thinking I might ditch the seat unit and rethink that area.
 

NoRiders

Member
Bearing in mind absolutely nothing on this project fits anything else......it's doing my nut in tbh.

I'm now fettling the engine mount position to suit the Microns....which could foul the footpegs and gearchange....and only just clears the frame downpipes which is fine except the primary sprocket could be too high, given sprocket/swingarm pivot horizontal alignment, not to mention the sidestand!!

Mind you....the Microns will look ace I reckon. :)



In other news I now have a good top yoke that I can fix/drill/bolt the handlebar stand-off clamps to. I'll make two spreader plates as the material is not thick enough for me.
 

NoRiders

Member
Today was a good day.

Aligned and centred the rear wheel, I now know the spacer width I'll need, 41 o/s & 16mm n/s.







Positioned the engine in it's optimum slot....exhaust clearance is 4mm, primary drive aligns and priamry/swingarm pivot/rear axle are horizontal.





And, as you may have noticed, I rolled it outside for a good look at it from a distance :)





I have an idea for the lower engine mounts....more anon.

At the moment I can use the rear upper Honda engine mount, with a spacer, but need to fab the upper front out of 4mm steel as well.

I also mounted the bars on the broken yoke just to see how the risers fit....it'll work with a spreader plate underneath as the yoke isn't too thick.

I'm defo going with alloy short levers for clutch and front brake...probably in anodised blue.

So good progress today I think.....thanks for dropping by.
 

NoRiders

Member
Small steps.....engine mount fabrication stage 1



Actually pleased to be at this stage tbh. Just 3x more mounts to sort...

Also, couldn't resist some time on the bench wire wheel.....burnished the footpeg/brake unit...came out nice n clean but not too shiny.



The leftside gearchange peg still to do.
 

NoRiders

Member
Sonreir said:
Good to see some progress on this one. Looks like it's starting to come together really well.
Thank you Sonny....rolling it out on its own wheels was a milestone I reckon....and standing looking at it (something I do a lot) I like what I see...stance, wheelbase, overall shape all where I hoped it would be. Just the guards, seat, tyres & exhausts to get right now ;)

I'm a bit motivated tbh.
 

NoRiders

Member
A good place to buy good parts cheaply is at an out of genre swapmeet. Scored this new 110/70x17" Kingstone tracker style tyre for £10 ($12) which I think will suit the overall look, at a VW event over the weekend.



Anyone have any firsthand experience of this 'ditchfinder' brand?

They appear to be fitted to quite a few Chinese bikes and hopefully will work OK on my trips to the local coffee shop in the dry.

Headlight brackets are in along with some 3x25mm flat steel bar for the engine mounts.
 

NoRiders

Member
So....I had a minor problem with the floating disc bobbins. I'd removed and cleaned the crud off one, only to find it rattled much too much when refitted.....wtf?

Anyway, I removed another to clean it and noticed I'd fitted the special spring washer the wrong way round, which meant the C clip couldn't hold the fitting tight.



All sorted now, cleaned and fitted correctly. I will repaint the gold.

Had a go at the caliper to start ceaning ready for paint...probably gold too I reckon.



Stainless allen bolts arrived along with 3x25mm flat bar for the engine mount idea I have, so that's the next job.
 

NoRiders

Member
You know how one thing leads to another. right?

Well, I had concerns the kickstart might just foul the new rearset peg, so my thought of a solution lead me to think about an electric starter. Fitted to GT models but not all SB models.

So, I browse feebay and stumble across a complete bottom end of a GT200 engine....including the starter, new clutch, primary sprocket, head - just missing the barrel on offer for £100 I won it for £102 ;)

So now I have a x5speed gearbox, electric start and spare everything. I had my doubts about kickstart only...my ego said 'yes, look cool at the biker meet' but my head said 'wtf are you thinking? '..heheh...so now I have two options :)

Here's what 1/2 an engine looks like.

 

NoRiders

Member
Sonreir said:
Nice score!

If nothing else, you now have a powerplant for a great kart!
Haha....to shift my 14.5 stone bulk I'd need a 500cc at least.

Pleased with the engine...hope its as good as the seller says? I'll find out next week when I pick it up.
 

NoRiders

Member
My shithole of a garage was winding me up....so my Father's Day treat was my lad popping in and helping me to sort my shit.

Threw the bikes out for the day.....

 

NoRiders

Member
7aliveatlast7 said:
Do you know what model Suzuki your swingarm came from?
I think it's a GSX1100E and one or two other models. Box section alloy will look right I reckon. :)

Found this on fealbay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/372762255566?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=372762255566&targetid=594043309910&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046124&poi=&campaignid=6466403742&mkgroupid=77731900736&rlsatarget=pla-594043309910&abcId=1140486&merchantid=6995734&gclid=CjwKCAjw_uDsBRAMEiwAaFiHa59uGWP2JZSF4oFRcXiy3oHkDndNdNoBsG_p2B0SuGMnUXIpTe6KWxoCSmkQAvD_BwE

PS I think I paid £10 or £20 no more.
 

7aliveatlast7

the bearded hessian
Oh wow, I had no idea katanas ever came with dual shocks! I’m just trying to find something a little longer than a stock cb550 swinger that still has dual shock mounts for a clevis style shock bottoms. Thanks for the lead, I’ll definitely hold out for one at 1/3 of the price haha.
 

NoRiders

Member
7aliveatlast7 said:
Oh wow, I had no idea katanas ever came with dual shocks! I’m just trying to find something a little longer than a stock cb550 swinger that still has dual shock mounts for a clevis style shock bottoms. Thanks for the lead, I’ll definitely hold out for one at 1/3 of the price haha.
Early models had twin shocks, clevis fitment, I think....defo didn't want mono shock on the project as an old skool look was what I'm after. I may be using a single sheer bolt as the mounts are too far apart from the top mounts.....or extend the top mounts?

Most bike builders I've spoken to say a single bolt to a regular eye fitment would be fine with a 10:9 bolt. It'll not be used for rough off road riding and the bikes will be relatively lightweight and I'm only 14.5st. We'll see.
 

doc_rot

Oh the usual... I bowl, I drive around...
DTT BOTM WINNER
How is the chain run? that will probably prevent you from moving the shock inside the mounts, as the shock to chain clearence super close on most bikes. also take note the katana swingarm is a-symetrical, and the shock mounts are as well. the left side is wider by like 10-15mm iirc
 

NoRiders

Member
Interesting...but I don't see the asymmetrical in the swingarm to be honest. I'm running Honda NSR125 wheels with 130 or 140 section tyres so there is clearance.

Here's an image of the sprocket alignment which is close but there is enough room for an offset eye shock mount.





I've since aligned the engine in the frame and give or take a mm or two the primary sprocket position lines up nicely I reckon.
 

doc_rot

Oh the usual... I bowl, I drive around...
DTT BOTM WINNER
looks like plenty of room. its the spring of the shock that usually hits the chain but that wont be an issue with those Hagons. Most swing-arms are a little wider on the drive side to accommodate the sprocket. Its nearly impossible to notice with the eye, but every swing arm i have taken the time measure has been anywhere from 5-15mm wider, including the GS1100E. I blueprinted one of those arms when I chopped it up to shorten it. I only mention it since you will be modifying your mounts in some fashion its the perfect time to ensure the top and bottom are on the same plane for optimal shock performance. which can mean asymmetry in the mounts. Good call not using a wider tire btw, keep it light and lean.
 

NoRiders

Member
doc_rot said:
looks like plenty of room. its the spring of the shock that usually hits the chain but that wont be an issue with those Hagons. Most swing-arms are a little wider on the drive side to accommodate the sprocket. Its nearly impossible to notice with the eye, but every swing arm i have taken the time measure has been anywhere from 5-15mm wider, including the GS1100E. I blueprinted one of those arms when I chopped it up to shorten it. I only mention it since you will be modifying your mounts in some fashion its the perfect time to ensure the top and bottom are on the same plane for optimal shock performance. which can mean asymmetry in the mounts. Good call not using a wider tire btw, keep it light and lean.
Thanks for the head's up on swingarm....I'll be sure to have the wheel alignment dead centre. Currently needing spindle mods as the wheel bearing are 17mm i/d but the swingarm jaws are 19mm....so looking to have the solid spindle turned down, with a 19mm shoulder at the head end and a top hat spacer at the nut end. Jobs like these hold me up as I don't have a lathe and rely on mates to help.

I'll be aligning the shocks mount to mount, this should highlight any differences you mention. Cheeers
 
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