$50 mod thread
- Thread starter JRK5892
- Start date
boomshakalaka
Over 1,000 Posts
ya, I even feel bad when I wash my car on the street and all the mildly harsh stuff goes down the drain. Im lucky to have a hasmat disposal depot not too far from me though. Actually its right down the street from my school.
liam
1970 cb350/1980 xs250/2004 klx400/BMW E30 323I
ok, here's one i've done that i haven't seen anyone else do.
your results may vary, things may not fit together, it may overheat and catch fire or something,
headlight bucket modded to fit speedo/tacho
cost: varies, if you have the stuff, like i did, then around $15 +your time
needed stuff: about 10cm2 of fibreglass cloth, resin to match, some kind of filler, i used water based wood/ genreal purpose filler, because it's easy to sand. paint and primer. headlight bucket and light assembly, tacho or speedo w/casing
why: i wanted to clear some space on my cb350 bars, lower the profile, and give it a hint of 60's styling.
process:
- dissasemble speedo
-take speedo case, mark inside bucket a circle the size of top, cut this out, look at it. do you like it's position etc. keep cutting bucket until you strike the perfect balance between useful position, aesthetics, and fitting the light assembly in the bucket. the back of my light touches the threaded drive on the bottom of the speedo, so it will be a close fit, depending on what you're using.
-when it all fits together, with all the parts in there, then you're ready to fix it.
-mask both sides of the speedo glass off. (i didn't do it on the inside, mistake!)
-tape the case to the bucket in your favoured position from the inside. check everything fits together again.
-fill all the gaps on the outside with filler, bulk it up and lay it on thick, it will sand of afterwards.
-after the filler has set, remove the tape from the inside and cut some stamp sized pieces of fibreglass. use these to cover all the bare filler, making sure to make a good connection to the bucket and case. make sure not to get any inside the speedo casing that would impede insertion. i did, and i doesn't go all the way in, but you guys are pretty talented, and neater then me, so you should be fine
-after the resin has set, start sanding the outside. sand all planes flat, make all the surfaces regular and make sure they match the changes of surface on the standard buckt.
-paint it.
your results may vary, things may not fit together, it may overheat and catch fire or something,
headlight bucket modded to fit speedo/tacho
cost: varies, if you have the stuff, like i did, then around $15 +your time
needed stuff: about 10cm2 of fibreglass cloth, resin to match, some kind of filler, i used water based wood/ genreal purpose filler, because it's easy to sand. paint and primer. headlight bucket and light assembly, tacho or speedo w/casing
why: i wanted to clear some space on my cb350 bars, lower the profile, and give it a hint of 60's styling.
process:
- dissasemble speedo
-take speedo case, mark inside bucket a circle the size of top, cut this out, look at it. do you like it's position etc. keep cutting bucket until you strike the perfect balance between useful position, aesthetics, and fitting the light assembly in the bucket. the back of my light touches the threaded drive on the bottom of the speedo, so it will be a close fit, depending on what you're using.
-when it all fits together, with all the parts in there, then you're ready to fix it.
-mask both sides of the speedo glass off. (i didn't do it on the inside, mistake!)
-tape the case to the bucket in your favoured position from the inside. check everything fits together again.
-fill all the gaps on the outside with filler, bulk it up and lay it on thick, it will sand of afterwards.
-after the filler has set, remove the tape from the inside and cut some stamp sized pieces of fibreglass. use these to cover all the bare filler, making sure to make a good connection to the bucket and case. make sure not to get any inside the speedo casing that would impede insertion. i did, and i doesn't go all the way in, but you guys are pretty talented, and neater then me, so you should be fine
-after the resin has set, start sanding the outside. sand all planes flat, make all the surfaces regular and make sure they match the changes of surface on the standard buckt.
-paint it.
HerrDeacon
Over 1,000 Posts
Very nice liam, quality job.
ultimatefiend138
Active Member
I'm digging the in light speedo but what if you want to keep your tach? I understand this is a mod thread but maybe if your a lazy bum such as myself you could get ahold of the bucket with the speedo and tach that are integrated and work something together like on the superhawks and dreams. Props on the idea, it's awesome.
boomshakalaka
Over 1,000 Posts
I was thinking about trying the in-light speedo mod and including my tach. Im pretty sure you could simply cut more of a W shape as opposed to the U shape.
brewtown16
what, me worry?
the headlight/speedo combo is exactly what i want, but i fear that im going to screw up the clearance area of the speedo to the lens of the headlight. also, liam you never mentioned how the plug will fit.... you should make a small thread with a little more info... i mean that is one badass cheap mod... i really dont want to have to drop the 80 bucks for a superhawk headlight speedo combo
Irishwarelephant
8%ers for life!
nice speedo, i wish i would have seen that before i dropped the coin on one from BCR...
mrkil
Coast to Coast
get aluminum sheet not to heavy not to light - think bendable but not flimsy - $10-20
pop rivets - $2
3/4 inch foam - $5
upholstery vinyl - $14
poly glue - $4
1 - original seat base- cut off rear 1/4
2 - make sure to use cardboard for the templates on the rear section (don't want to screw up expensive aluminum)
3 - mark template shapes on aluminum for cutting, don't forget to leave extra to fold over for pop riveting
4 - pop rivet together
5 - cut down original seat foam to fit
6 - cover the whole thing in 3/4" foam
7 - make seat cover using vinyl best way is to layup paper over each section of the seat for templates again leaving 1/2" extra for sewing the pieces together
8 - steam the cover by throwing it in the dryer with a wet towel, it will stretch easier over the base
9 - start gluing the cover on starting from the rear and working forward. (i found bulldog clips best for hold fabric in place while drying)
now you have a seat that bolts right up to your frame for under $50
mine has a few ripples because i skipped the heating of the vinyl before mounting it...
maybe next time
pop rivets - $2
3/4 inch foam - $5
upholstery vinyl - $14
poly glue - $4
1 - original seat base- cut off rear 1/4
2 - make sure to use cardboard for the templates on the rear section (don't want to screw up expensive aluminum)
3 - mark template shapes on aluminum for cutting, don't forget to leave extra to fold over for pop riveting
4 - pop rivet together
5 - cut down original seat foam to fit
6 - cover the whole thing in 3/4" foam
7 - make seat cover using vinyl best way is to layup paper over each section of the seat for templates again leaving 1/2" extra for sewing the pieces together
8 - steam the cover by throwing it in the dryer with a wet towel, it will stretch easier over the base
9 - start gluing the cover on starting from the rear and working forward. (i found bulldog clips best for hold fabric in place while drying)
now you have a seat that bolts right up to your frame for under $50
mine has a few ripples because i skipped the heating of the vinyl before mounting it...
maybe next time
So you lads are building 30yr+ bikes,,and some have drum brakes.Original linings,,,da will give you duh biggest pucker ever on the street 
off to the jobber to get replacements,,,not ;D send them outs to a brake and clutch shop and have then relined with woven fork lift lining,,riveted and glued!! those forking things(and lift too) are on the brakes steady in a wearhouse,,,and not fade!! dids the front for under $50...
off to the jobber to get replacements,,,not ;D send them outs to a brake and clutch shop and have then relined with woven fork lift lining,,riveted and glued!! those forking things(and lift too) are on the brakes steady in a wearhouse,,,and not fade!! dids the front for under $50...not really a mod... more of a assembly trick... to protect the frame when assembling... go to the hardware store get some pipe insulation wrap... comes in all sorts of sizes usually around 1.50 for a 10ft section. it is already split down the middle... just wrap the whole sucker up! works great and comes off super easy if you use masking tape to hold it
JRK5892 said:not really a mod... more of a assembly trick... to protect the frame when assembling... go to the hardware store get some pipe insulation wrap... comes in all sorts of sizes usually around 1.50 for a 10ft section. it is already split down the middle... just wrap the whole sucker up! works great and comes off super easy if you use masking tape to hold it
Good idea man, alot of the CB guys like using garden hose... same concept.
Ok, I have the dickshawnary and it says "pucker" stick your lips out to kiss,,something??,,but the pucker I was refurring too is the one you get at the spinckter,its puckering cause you have no BRAKES and about to take down a stray carribou(very similar to Rudolf family of small elks) and referance to forking things um wood be a fork lift : and there on the brakes steady...which makes forklift linings better than the crap(and under the $50.00 bones minimum) than stock shoes hope this makes more cents
and there on the brakes steady...which makes forklift linings better than the crap(and under the $50.00 bones minimum) than stock shoes hope this makes more centsboomshakalaka
Over 1,000 Posts
you seem to actually have good stuff to contribute to this forum. So why do you talk like you have an extra chromosome?
I'm told one in three has the X chromezone,and one in six has the Y chromezone's,,geanneticlee faultered,,,,geniealigists blame it on in breading(hallowoween is fun here,, pump KIN),,,,,,and were told this happens in the Ozarks too,,I saw the movie,,deliveredance : : it's amazing that some folks take this seriously ;D ;D.thanks for the compliment and again I apoligise to referring to you as a ,,,well I apoligised!!,,,,,,,cb 350 and cb 550 I have a welf of knoelige ;D ;D(couldn't resist, lmao).......forgot just one thing,,if I wasn't warped...I would have no funs!!!!!!!
: it's amazing that some folks take this seriously ;D ;D.thanks for the compliment and again I apoligise to referring to you as a ,,,well I apoligised!!,,,,,,,cb 350 and cb 550 I have a welf of knoelige ;D ;D(couldn't resist, lmao).......forgot just one thing,,if I wasn't warped...I would have no funs!!!!!!!
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
He is the Sofa King!
