$50 mod thread
- Thread starter JRK5892
- Start date
johnson_steve
Been Around the Block
JRK5892 said:
My bike isn't wired the same as a 350 at all. This prob. works great for a 350; I couldn't tell you as I don't have one to look at. I'm just saying don't replace a rectifier/regulator with just a rectifier. It is also posible that I'm being over cautious. maybe 40 years ago in an automotive application a little cooking of the battery on long trips was acceptable.
Edit: Thank you CC for pointing out that the cb350 has a separate voltage regulator. that would make this a drop in upgrade for the cb350. If you bought one on ebay I hope you didn't overpay too much for a $2 bridge rectifier.
This circuit diagram clearly shows the rectifier directly connected to the battery with no voltage regulation at all. This was the initial cause for my concern. I would like to reasure you that this mod should work great exactly like it was posted despite this diagram being wrong for the cb350 and with some modification it could be made to work on any bike with a seperate voltage regulator.
johnson_steve
Been Around the Block
JRK5892 said:
Current list price: $1.69 ($3.29 if you shop at ripoff shack.)
How do you get the bike on and off that table?
johnson_steve
Been Around the Block
Don't get me wrong RadioShack has it's place (My brother works there.) If you need something 'now' and they have it you have no other options. They just seem more interested in selling cell phones now then stocking this type of product; which is sad because I remember when I was a kid RS had 2 asiles full of this kind of stuff and you could get everything you needed for a project right there, now it's 2 small sections of drawers at the back of the store. I stock a much wider variety of electronics components at my home then the local RS. You get a much better deal when you get this kind of stuff mail order.
boomshakalaka
Over 1,000 Posts
johnson_steve said:
agreed.
this is a fantastic thread!!! I've already used the epoxy paint trick on my triple threes, lever perches, and headlight shell. As for the wheels I'm gonna use some Eastwood "warm silver" to get that 60's MGB painted wire wheel look on the hubs and spokes. My girlfriend swears I'm gonna get cancer from the all the fumes, if the ciggies don't get me!!! I've also used the polishing info on the fork sliders and the improvement is just incredible, must be a 500% improvement. And all this started from a simple wiring fix in the head light shell, then stering head bearings and now this. I've never had so much fun!!!! thanks so much for the info and the inspiration!!! The XS650 is really coming along to being the near-Triumph that I wanted all along.
Terry
J'ville, Fl
Terry
J'ville, Fl
steve i have a ramp from my bike trailers so i just use that... getting 5 more milk crates to bring it up another level while i start all the final touches... also found my REAL wheel chuck so i will use that so no longer need the straps to hold it in place... post pics tomorrow
Ok so I did this about a month ago and I am kind of spurring off of the thread starters bike platform post.
I am a carpenter by trade, kinda, with the market the way it is I am now a suit for a while.... grrrr
I put this baby together for an eyelash under $50 with a contractor discount.
( 8 ) 8' 2X4
(2) 8' 4X4
(1) 4'X8' sheet of 1/2" plywood
(16) 1/2" X 7" long lag bolts
(32) 1/2" washers
(16) 1/2" nuts
A few solid nails and some Liquid nails (also known as flooring adhesive)
The total dimensions are 32" deep 36" tall 8' wide (Well thought out for the space in my garage, and my height)
I could jump up and down on this baby and it wouldn't move a 1/4 inch. SOLID
My previous work bench:
I am a carpenter by trade, kinda, with the market the way it is I am now a suit for a while.... grrrr
I put this baby together for an eyelash under $50 with a contractor discount.
( 8 ) 8' 2X4
(2) 8' 4X4
(1) 4'X8' sheet of 1/2" plywood
(16) 1/2" X 7" long lag bolts
(32) 1/2" washers
(16) 1/2" nuts
A few solid nails and some Liquid nails (also known as flooring adhesive)
The total dimensions are 32" deep 36" tall 8' wide (Well thought out for the space in my garage, and my height)
I could jump up and down on this baby and it wouldn't move a 1/4 inch. SOLID
My previous work bench:
LOL I paid a 20 spot for mine (rectifier) oh well it had a nice new connector set I needed to. (Still not $20 bucks even with postage Oh well lack of knowledge) Glad I'm sticking with CB350 for my next two builds saving money already. Nice tables both. Ive been lucky Lowes let me have to kobalt work benches for 60 bucks, because they were missing a drawer each. ;D
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
I'm starting to think this may not be a really good thread as just about every mod we cheap bastards make to our bike is less than $50. It may have been relevant to those HD folks that pay $300 for a turn signal. I already have 3 more mods that I plan to post after I do them.
johnson_steve
Been Around the Block
Flugtechnik said:
I think this topic is a great idea and is yeilding some nice mods. However at 5 pages and growing it's going to get hard to sort through real quick. It already crashes safari on my iPod if I try to scroll before all the pictures load. Is there anyway it could be made into a sub-forum and split into 1 topic for each mod? We have sub forums on other parts of the site, and eveyone knows the search function here isn't the best so it helps to have things laid out clearly.
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
I was being a bit sarcastic. I love this thread, but it will get quite long. Joe promised to index the mods on the first post.
johnson_steve
Been Around the Block
Ahh, I see. I still think the sub-forum would be cool but that will work.
johnson_steve
Been Around the Block
crazypj said:
You sure know your shit pj. That's my bike exactly. However the only stock wiring on it now are the wires going to the alternator. my rectifier/regulator was bad when I got the bike. It and all the other wiring have been replaced with a much more modern system of my own design. I don't like trying to troubleshoot someone elses circuits, it requires geting into their head and thinking like them. It is much easier for me to start from scratch. Then when something goes wrong I know why and how to fix it.
njsoccerguy
New Member
OK, not really a mod, but a cheap fix and very useful for all your chrome bits.
I learned this from my BMX buddies, I collect vintage bmx and 80's freestyle bikes and there is a really good way to remove rust from chrome parts, without using abbrasive materials or the electrolysis set up. It's called an OA bath.
OA is short for oxalic acid, commonly found in wood bleach, like the stuff you would clean your deck with. You can pick it up in powder form or in liquid form already diluted. You can find the liquid forms at Home Depot or Lowes or your local hardware store. Just ask for wood bleach. The important thing is to read the ingredients on the jug, because you can also get wood bleach with sulfuric acid (I think that's the other ingredient), and you don't want that. Oxalic Acid is the stuff your looking for.
I use 1 large container of wood bleach, I think its about 64 oz, and fill up a large rubbermaid plastic container with warm water. I do this outside, but I do know people who use their tub (not recommending it though). Let it sit for a few hours and every so often just rub it with a towel or soft bristle brush. You'll be amazed at how the rust just disappears. After you have finished, make sure you dry the item really well, and I coat the non-plated side ( like the inside of headlight ears) with WD-40, to make sure the non-chromed areas don't rust up again.
Do not use on aluminum or with bare metal. It will turn both black.
But it does work wonders on chrome. If you have items with surface rust, give it a try. Try it on something you don't really care about first, just to make sure it's good................I know it is, but I am also always skeptical of using someone elses ideas first without seeing it first hand or having practiced on something I don't care about. If the rust has gone through the chrome, you will still have "peppering" but it won't be all scratched up from using abbrasive cleaners or materials.
I'll try to get some pics of some things I've soaked up real soon.
I learned this from my BMX buddies, I collect vintage bmx and 80's freestyle bikes and there is a really good way to remove rust from chrome parts, without using abbrasive materials or the electrolysis set up. It's called an OA bath.
OA is short for oxalic acid, commonly found in wood bleach, like the stuff you would clean your deck with. You can pick it up in powder form or in liquid form already diluted. You can find the liquid forms at Home Depot or Lowes or your local hardware store. Just ask for wood bleach. The important thing is to read the ingredients on the jug, because you can also get wood bleach with sulfuric acid (I think that's the other ingredient), and you don't want that. Oxalic Acid is the stuff your looking for.
I use 1 large container of wood bleach, I think its about 64 oz, and fill up a large rubbermaid plastic container with warm water. I do this outside, but I do know people who use their tub (not recommending it though). Let it sit for a few hours and every so often just rub it with a towel or soft bristle brush. You'll be amazed at how the rust just disappears. After you have finished, make sure you dry the item really well, and I coat the non-plated side ( like the inside of headlight ears) with WD-40, to make sure the non-chromed areas don't rust up again.
Do not use on aluminum or with bare metal. It will turn both black.
But it does work wonders on chrome. If you have items with surface rust, give it a try. Try it on something you don't really care about first, just to make sure it's good................I know it is, but I am also always skeptical of using someone elses ideas first without seeing it first hand or having practiced on something I don't care about. If the rust has gone through the chrome, you will still have "peppering" but it won't be all scratched up from using abbrasive cleaners or materials.
I'll try to get some pics of some things I've soaked up real soon.
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
Ha! 
Oxalic Acid is also available in powdered form at any grocery store. I buy "Barkeepers Friend" in a goldish can in the cleaners isle. I use it to clean my stainless brewing equipment and pots, as well as my sink!
I've never tried it on chrome. The BKF does have an abrasive in it, but as long as you don't rub it on the part, it shouldn't scratch it.
I think a can is like $1.50.
Oxalic Acid is also available in powdered form at any grocery store. I buy "Barkeepers Friend" in a goldish can in the cleaners isle. I use it to clean my stainless brewing equipment and pots, as well as my sink!
I've never tried it on chrome. The BKF does have an abrasive in it, but as long as you don't rub it on the part, it shouldn't scratch it.
I think a can is like $1.50.
njsoccerguy
New Member
Flugtechnik said:Ha!
Oxalic Acid is also available in powdered form at any grocery store.
Man, and I always run soooooo much farther from my house to get it, when there's a grocery store right around the corner from me. What is it in there, or is it just for sale as OA??
