75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

teazer said:
Q: why the relay before the starter solenoid? The sloenoid is a heavy duty relay. You should not need a second one there. Use it instead just for the coils.
well, because it was suggested to me and I have the room for it. the wires for my starter button are tiny, like 22 awg or something.

O2 sensors: It seems counter intuitive, but when the bike is running we know we can feel the pressure of exhaust coming out but what we don't feel is the fresh air pulsing back in. That's why short pipes show up as lean on the Lambda sensor and that's not accurate.

On one two stroke we tested on the dyno with a sniffer only part way into the tail pipe - it read lean even when it was clearly too rich. Mechanical baffles got in the way.
the exhaust will be pretty long - longer than scrambler exhaust - as it will go down around bottom of frame and up to the rear swingarm
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Starter solenoid only needs couple hundred milliamps to operate, your powering a coil to operate main contactor, plus, it isn't a 'constant on' component (should be max ten second 'burst')
 

Sonreir

Oregon
Most Honda solenoids will pull over three amps. It's not a trivial amount of current and I recommend 18 gauge wire or thicker.
 
Sonreir said:
Most Honda solenoids will pull over three amps. It's not a trivial amount of current and I recommend 18 gauge wire or thicker.
the old wiring I had used 16awg wire directly to the sol and never had any issues - this time I am using a metri-pack box that can house 4 fuses or 2 and a micro relay, super tiny 20amp relay and the button uses really small wires - the manufacture "requires" the use of a relay with this button.


BTW - i ordered from vintage connections - thanks for sending me spare little contacts in the connector sets.... that's a step above and much help!!
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Sonreir said:
Most Honda solenoids will pull over three amps. It's not a trivial amount of current and I recommend 18 gauge wire or thicker.
On the primary windings?
It's one of the few parts I don't remember taking measurements on ;D
 

trek97

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
teazer said:
O2 sensors: It seems counter intuitive, but when the bike is running we know we can feel the pressure of exhaust coming out but what we don't feel is the fresh air pulsing back in. That's why short pipes show up as lean on the Lambda sensor and that's not accurate.
+1
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Because of truck issue I've been looking up O2 sensors. (you forget a lot of stuff when your not 'using' it ;) )
This is the best video I've seen explaining how they work and what they do
https://youtu.be/wZc-zCr2QnE

BTW,. you only need to watch about first 30 mins, the rest is on actual vehicles so pretty worthless to 'us'
 
ran into sort of a problem and have been held up a few days - I seam to have misplaced the shim (thrust washer b) needed for the camshaft end play (part number 90484-369-000)

I am not sure if it slipped in between the cracks in my work bench but it's LOST FOREVER

problem is... everywhere I see that - well the only way to get one is to reuse the one you have.

in other news I got my head back from the shop, oversized 1mm intake and a mildly ported (match port, D shaped exhaust and matched intake boots, small sculpting done to the intake and exhaust around the valve guides and smoothed area at the seats

getting excited to get this thing together

oh, and while I was searching for the thrust washer I keep coming across a "sealing washer" (like this one) and I have no idea what it is where it goes
 

Sonreir

Oregon
MiniatureNinja said:
problem is... everywhere I see that - well the only way to get one is to reuse the one you have.
If you have the specs, I'm pretty sure most washers would work.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
'Most' washers are not precision ground.
Try McMaster -Carr for a thrust washer. Pretty sure it's a common inch size.
Only problem I see is you may have to buy a 10 pack although I'm sure other 360 owners would buy one if different size to what they already have as Honda only listed two sizes
 
crazypj said:
'Most' washers are not precision ground.
Try McMaster -Carr for a thrust washer. Pretty sure it's a common inch size.
Only problem I see is you may have to buy a 10 pack although I'm sure other 360 owners would buy one if different size to what they already have as Honda only listed two sizes
there are two sizes honda makes, 1mm and 1.1mm - I think the 1mm will still allow me to be within tolerance, but 1.1 would be much more in the middle.
I found the 1mm version on eBay - NOS for only 13$ shipped so I'll get that, and hunt around for a 1.1mm if I don't find it by the time this all needs to go together next Sunday I'll just use the 1mm

I also found an NOS cam on eBay that was improperly listed and used the buy it now function to get it for only $120 - pretty fucking stoked on that, seller had an NOS rocker box for $30... may still buy that too, just to have this stuff around in case I grenade anything or decide to do more oil mods up top
 
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Can someone weigh their cb360 rear brake actuator?

I made this one from aluminum and carbon fiber and it weights 1.1 ounces

 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
That's really lightweight
I'll try and find onetomorrow if no one else comes through sooner
 
I had heard the GS850 pistons were lighter than stock, I had to check for myself.

Stock Honda 65mm ART


Suzuki GS850 ART


the piston pin itself probably makes the most difference since it's the heaviest part, and the Honda version is longer than the suzi one
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I imagine the rings weigh something too. Looks to me like to GS doesn't have rings.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I wasn't questioning that it's lighter. Just making an observation that things weren't weighed under the same conditions between both pistons.
 

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