75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Rotor will wear back to better condition than it is now as long as there is slight 'overlap' between holes. If there isn't, you will get bigger ridges. It's dead easy to fix if needed though, just enlarge some of the holes slightly. Looks good in pic but 'full size' will be easier to see. ;)
Do both coils mount onto the new bracket?
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
Rotor will wear back to better condition than it is now as long as there is slight 'overlap' between holes. If there isn't, you will get bigger ridges. It's dead easy to fix if needed though, just enlarge some of the holes slightly. Looks good in pic but 'full size' will be easier to see. ;)
Do both coils mount onto the new bracket?
I checked all the overlaps - there is more than enough so no grooves... also it may look like it is grooved - but it's just a strange discoloration, you cannot feels this grooves at all - there is room to enlarge the single larger holes in the stacks, out to 3/8 (if you can see it, one of the holes IS a 3/8 hole - because I had to balance the rotor

there is an identical coil mount on the other side, they will each be on their own mount - I wanted them to hang a little down below the tank so you can see that they are non-stock coils and give another hint to the level pain and suffering I have gone through on this bike



I was hoping I could use this kit from TC Bros for my exhaust? I am not sure about the flange sizes.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
MiniatureNinja said:
there is an identical coil mount on the other side, they will each be on their own mount - I wanted them to hang a little down below the tank so you can see that they are non-stock coils and give another hint to the level pain and suffering I have gone through on this bike



I was hoping I could use this kit from TC Bros for my exhaust? I am not sure about the flange sizes.
Coils will also run cooler 'out in the breeze' ;D
As for pain and suffering, just wait til it's running ;)
I get pipes and mandrel bends from
http://www.magnumforce.com/magnumstore/shop/item.aspx?itemid=61
Need 2 bends and a straight.
I used smaller diameter out of port then sleeved over it to make a 'stepped' exhaust
Use a thick washer (1/8") in port and a thick wall tube.to space out far enough for flange to clamp.
XS is about 2-3/4" stud spacing while CB is about 2.5"
I can#t find the pics of building, guess it's the ones Photobucket screwed up. I'll re-upload them when I find the flash drive where they are stored
 

MiniatureNinja

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So PJs plan worked

It was very difficult with the equipment i have (don't have) but I manage to drill 1/2 holes lined up perfectly through the rear shock mount plates I welded up before... perfectly straight to the mm (woohoo!)



I then welded the inside of them, and cut the excess out of the middle.

because the plates aren't straight to anything but the tube - I had to cut strange angled spacers - I used the Dime City Cycles Universal Cafe Shock Mount Slugs that I had previously drilled holes in to lighten then up as I planned to use them in the above manner but didn't - I then drilled a 13/64s hole about 1 1/4 deep and tapped it for a 6mm bolt, which with a washer will hold the shock on



and.... after all that - I FINALLY got it "rolling" of course it's all back apart now while it gets some finishing touches and finish the tank and seat mount and alllll the other crap - oh yea like the ENGINE!

 

huck_finn

Member
Will the holes in the rear brake hub cause any issues with braking? Or do you think they will shed dust from the shoes? Either way, I really dig the way they look.
 

MiniatureNinja

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huck_finn said:
Will the holes in the rear brake hub cause any issues with braking? Or do you think they will shed dust from the shoes? Either way, I really dig the way they look.
they aren't on the friction surface so no issues with wear
however, those holes will allow dust and water and crap to get in there - which isn't good for anything

they are there mostly because I have been intent on drilling holes in every possible surface on the bike :)
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
Coils will also run cooler 'out in the breeze' ;D
As for pain and suffering, just wait til it's running ;)
Oh yea! that will be another thing all together - not looking forward to all the tuning that will be required

XS is about 2-3/4" stud spacing while CB is about 2.5"
i was more thinking about using the collar, not the flange I used the wrong term :(
wondering if that collar will work and I can use stock style CB flanges (probably from Speedy Seigl racing)
 

MiniatureNinja

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micro push button installed on the right bar (this thing is super tiny and very well build! it threads into the 5/16-24 hole I tapped in the bar)
mini GP drum lever to actuate the remote master cylinder (need to find a super short cable for this but I may just have to modify the ones I have and shorten it up)
standard dual Motion Pro throttle (thinking about using CB400 cables as they are quite a bit shorter than the cb360 cables)
I ran the wires through a short length of gutted 550 paracord to clean them up and also gives that "vintage cloth covered wire" look
 

Alex jb

New Member
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Just read all the way through, great build, we’ll done to you sir!

Did you decide on the top triple tree to remove the handle bar mounts?
I did on my 175 and don’t regret it, much cleaner look.
 

MiniatureNinja

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Alex jb said:
Just read all the way through, great build, we’ll done to you sir!

Did you decide on the top triple tree to remove the handle bar mounts?
I did on my 175 and don’t regret it, much cleaner look.
//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180421/1443fb976cc5cd14a1bc1bfcfee0688b.jpg[img]
[/quote]

holy wow that looks great! did you fill it with something and the paint it?

thanks for checking out my build :)

I am likely going to leave them there, as with the clip ons i have I know the mirrors won't be legal - and if i get a fix it ticket in Cali i'll just throw the old clubman bars with mirros on there for inspection and go back to the clip ons after i get the ticket signed off


I rode all last year with no signals and a sideways plate with no tail like and never got pulled over - so we'll see. top triples are cheap, can get an extra if I need to
 

Alex jb

New Member
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

I did exactly that, got an eBay replacement that was more beat up than my top tree and modified that.

I used the 2 Pac metal stuff that over here in UK is called quicksteel or quickalloy to fill in after roughing off the excess.


I’m envious of your alloy polishing skills too!
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
MiniatureNinja said:
they aren't on the friction surface so no issues with wear
however, those holes will allow dust and water and crap to get in there - which isn't good for anything

they are there mostly because I have been intent on drilling holes in every possible surface on the bike :)
The holes will let heat out and let brake run slightly cooler (plus, cool off faster)
Shock mounts look real good, ton of work to get back to 'almost' stock. It's something most people won't notice or even realise has been done but it does look 'race' 8)

MiniatureNinja said:
Oh yea! that will be another thing all together - not looking forward to all the tuning that will be required
You never know, might get lucky (some people never adjusted anything on carbs and others only adjusted fuel screw)
There are some very quick '360's' out there ;)
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
The holes will let heat out and let brake run slightly cooler (plus, cool off faster)
Shock mounts look real good, ton of work to get back to 'almost' stock. It's something most people won't notice or even realise has been done but it does look 'race' 8)

You never know, might get lucky (some people never adjusted anything on carbs and others only adjusted fuel screw)
There are some very quick '360's' out there ;)
I do tend to use the rear brake a lot in town, as the front brake is really good (no need for upgrades on these bikes) and sometimes I like to slow down at a reasonable pace... so i just ease on the rear... so that should help.
as for the shock mounts - I have learned my lesson on this... they were probably just dandy to begin with and I should have left them alone... but I wanted to bring them up to the frame as tight as possible to get a little more travel out of the rear end, and the correct shock angle for the longer swing arm (so the lines match up with the frame tubes) I should have just left it alone but live and learn - now it's "custom!"

the bike was plenty quick before, it'll be a beast now! Also welding an 02 bung into the exhaust for some dyno tuning. I have no idea how to to do it but I'm sure someone does - that will be a ways down the road I think - gonna be some plug chops or color tuning in the mean-time
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Dyno run with correctly set up O2 sensor plus 5 band 'probe' stck in the end will give so much information it makes fine tuning carbs real easy and is worth the cost. I would get at least a few hundred miles on it first (although I built first 378 and had it running 12,000rpm on 3rd fire up and less than 20 miles on it) It allowed me to sort out the major carb mods I had done (took 2 sets of carbs in with different modifications, I know what doesn't work ;D ) I've been fine tuning ever since but have 'basic' set up pretty good. Exhaust length and diameter is critical when stock air box is removed and the reason different secondary main jets may be required. The change in fuel formulation a few years ago (E10 everywhere ::) ) needed slightly different set up (float level and bigger secondary main jet ~up from 110 to 115) Running 'real' gas without ethanol needs smaller secondary main plus lower float level (19.5~20mm)
 

trek97

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MiniatureNinja said:
Also welding an 02 bung into the exhaust for some dyno tuning. I have no idea how to to do it but I'm sure someone does




12 O'clock position, as far from both the head and open air as possible, (mine measures approx 28" from head and 22" from fresh air.) do your best to ensure there are no leaks in the system.



Wurth assembly paste is good.

https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Exhaust-System-Fitting-Assembly/dp/B06XWP61RM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524478093&sr=8-2&keywords=wurth+exhaust+assembly+paste

 

MiniatureNinja

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cool thanks! my Uncle builds stock car engines - and said a trick they use to determine where to place a sensor is to use a crayon and draw a line along the header pipe - where the crayon stops burning is where you should place it - Now this guy is old school... probably doesn't even know how to log into a computer but any input on that? I guess it's just important for the exhaust gasses to fully mature before the sensor

will be using 1 3/8" OD pipe for the first 15-18 inches, and then 1 1/2" OD for the rest - got some u-bends from PJs link (thanks!) and then am gonna use the TC bros kit for the rest
 

MiniatureNinja

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what amp fuse to use for ignition? I have 1 circuit for the coils that ONLY runs coils so is 7amp good?
the main circuit for lights and Neutral Safety and StopLight swiches will be a 10amp - everything is LED so no real load on those, just protecting the switches


EDIT:

I bought some connectors from Sparack (vintage connections) a 4-pin 2.8mm (for the Neutral Safety Indicator and Stop light Switch) and a 2-pin 2.8mm (for the Starter Button)

This is the wiring diagram I have so far



and now digital with color codes:



later when I add headlights and a horn i will have to add another 4pin connector for those wires - the last time I did wiring on this bike due to the fire I had tons of connectors and wires and I really want to simplify this thing but i realize with things like starters and lights it really adds a lot to the deal. race bike would just need 1 wire from a toggle to the Coils.
 

MiniatureNinja

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Thanks pj for the adapters! They look great. Got a fancy photo for the web if you wanna sling them I'll talk to my partner about buying some in bulk from ya to stick it to the other guy

 

MiniatureNinja

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just ordered an M-lock

bike isn't really unsecured ever except when I am in the store or something, and we don't have a problem with bike thefts... I realize it only takes about 45 seconds for people to lift a sub 300lb bike into a van but this mlock will give me more peace of mind over just a toggle switch
 

teazer

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Q: why the relay before the starter solenoid? The sloenoid is a heavy duty relay. You should not need a second one there. Use it instead just for the coils.

O2 sensors: It seems counter intuitive, but when the bike is running we know we can feel the pressure of exhaust coming out but what we don't feel is the fresh air pulsing back in. That's why short pipes show up as lean on the Lambda sensor and that's not accurate.

On one two stroke we tested on the dyno with a sniffer only part way into the tail pipe - it read lean even when it was clearly too rich. Mechanical baffles got in the way.
 
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