75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Alex jb said:
Looking great!


Getting good fuel through, floats set right/working?
What do the plugs look like?
I have no checked the floats myself - PJ did the carbs, so I will assume they are set properly and working. I will do some more checking of that stuff next time I hit the shop
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Carbs should only need minor adjustment, fuel screws and idle speed. Idle adjuster will be kinda behind clutch cable. Fuel screws are at 1.5 turns out which will get it started.
MiniatureNinja said:
I dont know how to kick a bike (never owned a kick bike before) and the bike just isn't dialed in... takes a few turns to fire up and dies :(
LOL, Should have realised. When I was at MMI a lot of people had never kick-started a bike or even seen it done
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
You'll definitely want to sync them. At least a good bench sync w/paperclip should get you fired right up with PJs carbs and then vac sync once its running. Pretty crucial to a well running twin.

Out of habit from all the thumpers, I usually prime kick once w/ignition off & fuel on to get some mixture in the cylinders, ignition on and another kick should fire right up. If it takes more than 2-3 kicks something ain't quite right.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
They should be close, plus, mini ninja has vac adapters for when it's running. Timing is good with correct points gap?
 
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

crazypj said:
They should be close, plus, mini ninja has vac adapters for when it's running. Timing is good with correct points gap?
Yes I have the proper adapters thanks to PJ and gauges too.

Timing is spot on, probably perfect. It was very easy once I did it correctly and followed the procedure in the manual. I was trying to do it a way I saw on YouTube and it wasn't at working.
 

trek97

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
A little late now.
But for what its worth. Easiest and quickest way Ive found to adjust static timing.

1. Set the gap on left point to open spec distance. .14

2. Now, use your test light or I prefer to use meter on tone so I can hear it open, while watching the marks.

Rotate plate til Left opens on LF exactly. snug plate down & rotate engine counterclockwise

3. Then WITHOUT using your feeler gauge. Simply, tweak RIGHT point until it opens exactly on L, it should "automatically" fall within .12-16 specs.

Now check RIGHT gap.

If RIGHT turns out to be more or less than 12-16, start over w step 1. This time set Left to open either .12 OR .16 gap...repeat steps 2 & 3.

If you adjust Left throughout the .12 .14 .16 range, opening exactly on LF and find you cant get Right gap within spec opening exactly on L,

Points are worn out and need replaced.

NOTE>>

If points are set less than .12 they will remain closed to long allowing the coil to heat up and fry. (not enough cool down time between charging cycles)

If open beyond .16 the coils will have less time to charge = weak spark.

Step 4, start bike put your strobe on it and turn plate for proper operation. Double check gaps. done.
 

whynot

~~~If it ain't raining, I'm riding~~{iii}?~~prost~
trek97 said:
A little late now.
But for what its worth. Easiest and quickest way Ive found to adjust static timing.

1. Set the gap on left point to open spec distance. .14

2. Now, use your test light or I prefer to use meter on tone so I can hear it open, while watching the marks.

Rotate plate til Left opens on LF exactly. snug plate down & rotate engine counterclockwise

3. Then WITHOUT using your feeler gauge. Simply, tweak RIGHT point until it opens exactly on L, it should "automatically" fall within .12-16 specs.

Now check RIGHT gap.

If RIGHT turns out to be more or less than 12-16, start over w step 1. This time set Left to open either .12 OR .16 gap...repeat steps 2 & 3.

If you adjust Left throughout the .12 .14 .16 range, opening exactly on LF and find you cant get Right gap within spec opening exactly on L,

Points are worn out and need replaced.

NOTE>>

If points are set less than .12 they will remain closed to long allowing the coil to heat up and fry. (not enough cool down time between charging cycles)

If open beyond .16 the coils will have less time to charge = weak spark.

Step 4, start bike put your strobe on it and turn plate for proper operation. Double check gaps. done.
Is this true on others bikes as well?

With dual points that is.
 

Alex jb

New Member
crazypj said:
Carbs should only need minor adjustment, fuel screws and idle speed. Idle adjuster will be kinda behind clutch cable. Fuel screws are at 1.5 turns out which will get it started.LOL, Should have realised. When I was at MMI a lot of people had never kick-started a bike or even seen it done
Are you pulling my leg?!


I’ve only owned one bike I was quite scared of kick starting (and it only had a kickstart) a Yam YZ490. If you didn’t commit and it kicked back it could catapult you!
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Nope. Electric start has been common since late 70's. Even back then there were bike not available with a kick-starter. (CX500, GL1100, etc) It only got more common. Majority of 'Inner city' kids saw very few dirt bikes and by 2000's the ones I met wanted to work on GSX-R, CBR, ZX-R, etc which hadn't had kick-start capabilities for at least 15~20 yrs
 

trek97

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
WhyNot said:
Is this true on others bikes as well?

With dual points that is.
I might be 99.9% sure it could probably work on 99.9% of bikes w dual points, maybe. ;)

So long as the plate fits the bike properly. I had one a few years back that could shift around.
The plate was a bit undersized and could shift side to side when screws were loosened. Continuously throwing gaps off, as I tried to adjust them.
Drove me nuts till I figured that out, and fit a proper plate.
 
Alex jb said:
Are you pulling my leg?!


I’ve only owned one bike I was quite scared of kick starting (and it only had a kickstart) a Yam YZ490. If you didn’t commit and it kicked back it could catapult you!
That's the bike my friend shattered his foot on!



Also thanks for the timing tutorial that's how I did it actually was near dead nuts on right cylinder after I did the left one correctly
 

jpmobius

where does this go?
DTT BOTM WINNER
trek97 said:
A little late now.
But for what its worth. Easiest and quickest way Ive found to adjust static timing.

1. Set the gap on left point to open spec distance. .14

2. Now, use your test light or I prefer to use meter on tone so I can hear it open, while watching the marks.

Rotate plate til Left opens on LF exactly. snug plate down & rotate engine counterclockwise

3. Then WITHOUT using your feeler gauge. Simply, tweak RIGHT point until it opens exactly on L, it should "automatically" fall within .12-16 specs.

Now check RIGHT gap.

If RIGHT turns out to be more or less than 12-16, start over w step 1. This time set Left to open either .12 OR .16 gap...repeat steps 2 & 3.

If you adjust Left throughout the .12 .14 .16 range, opening exactly on LF and find you cant get Right gap within spec opening exactly on L,

Points are worn out and need replaced.

NOTE>>

If points are set less than .12 they will remain closed to long allowing the coil to heat up and fry. (not enough cool down time between charging cycles)

If open beyond .16 the coils will have less time to charge = weak spark.

Step 4, start bike put your strobe on it and turn plate for proper operation. Double check gaps. done.
Excellent advice!! Will work on any twin cylinder with 2 point sets on a single timing plate. Generally, it is better to get the timing correct for each cylinder than the gap, so long as the gap is not too far out of range - as noted. Note: "dual point" ignition (not that you ever hear about such a thing these days - though we ARE pretty much talking antique here) is something entirely different and I don't recalling seeing it on a bike. A "dual point ignition" was used on high performance car ignitions and used one set of points to open the circuit and a different set to close it. This made the "dwell" time for the coil independent of the cam profile, allowing larger point gaps and longer "coil charge" times that would otherwise be impossible with a single set of points doing both on and off duty.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
jpmobius said:
A "dual point ignition" was used on high performance car ignitions and used one set of points to open the circuit and a different set to close it. This made the "dwell" time for the coil independent of the cam profile, allowing larger point gaps and longer "coil charge" times that would otherwise be impossible with a single set of points doing both on and off duty.
There are two types of dual point distributors- 4 lobe and 8 lobe. Mallory, iirc, made a double life 4 lobe that fired alternating points, so each one fired 1/2 the cylinders. My understanding, so correct me if I'm wrong, was the 4 lobe wasn't for dwell but to push flutter into higher rpms and for longer life.
 

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