75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

crazypj

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irk miller said:
There's a strong argument for keeping the center stand brackets. You can slide the pin out and remove the center stand for riding, then put it back in when you need to service the bike. I kept mine.
+1
I've removed the brackets and regretted it later (actually not too much later, about 3~4 days into build but 3~4 months after chopping them off)

MiniatureNinja said:
what size tire? I was able to get about 1mm clearance with a 130 tire on the 360 with stock rear rim.
Not going to do that, 110 rear I think with a 2.15 rim. Not sure yet
You really need minimum of 3" rim with a 130 tyre (WM 5 I think?)
I'm using a WM3 with a 4.50 trail tyre but it's a 'narrow' 4.50 at just over 4.25" fitted
 

MiniatureNinja

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here's what I did to center stand mount. removed stop and cut down to be less noticeable



and the "complete" waiting for rear hoop (also still need to chop stock rear tank mount off
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
Yep but I'm really slow 6weeks to 3 monts turn around(too much other stuff going on plus (gasp) I'm getting older
You need to drill the 'extra' holes in rotor so they 'overlap' slightly, that way pads stay flat and rotor stays 'clean'
shop is quoting me $280 to do valve job and install bronze guides then charge me $51 each for 35mm intakes and $37 each for stock type (but stainless swirl polished) exhaust valves

shaping up to be an expensive endevour but I'm determined to make this bike what it should be

gotta find that drill pattern I had to get the other holes into the rotor
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
You already have the radial lines on rotor from use, use them for the various hole pattern. All you need is to make sure there is 'overlap' so entire surface has a hole' It keeps pads 'flat' as they wear in. At present you would have ridges where the holes are
I can't remember how to link directly to a post but hopefully this should get you tyere. http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.450.
Go to post 475
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
You already have the radial lines on rotor from use, use them for the various hole pattern. All you need is to make sure there is 'overlap' so entire surface has a hole' It keeps pads 'flat' as they wear in. At present you would have ridges where the holes are
I can't remember how to link directly to a post but hopefully this should get you tyere. http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.450.
Go to post 475
good point, I think I will probably do two larger holes spaced evenly in the areas were there are gaps
 

crazypj

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That actually works well and could be 'different' enough if substantially larger (1/2" compared to 1/4") You don't need as many oversize holes and balance can be a problem if your not careful with spacing. I would probably do 4~5 (or more) depending on the hole pattern you already have
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
That actually works well and could be 'different' enough if substantially larger (1/2" compared to 1/4") You don't need as many oversize holes and balance can be a problem if your not careful with spacing. I would probably do 4~5 (or more) depending on the hole pattern you already have
I plan to balance the rotor when I am done, as well as slim it down to min spec - I am not 100% convinced it's not a bad idea, but 1mm of stainless has got to weigh a lot. your pictures also gave me more inspiration for drilling the area in the "hub" part of the rotor. I do have 2 spare rotors both NOS and so if I "ruin" this one with my hacking and drilling it's not that big of a deal. same with the sprocket cover I am drilling up and rear brake "thingy" I really want to give a nod to the "speedholers" that drilled every little ounce they could at the sacrifice of safety to go that much faster, without being unsafe - i want it to look that way
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
I did a dual disc conversion on my XS 650 several years ago. XS disks are known to be stupid heavy but I didn't have means to thin them at the time. ( glad I didn't as tey are quite soft stainless, noticeable wear after 12,000 miles)
I did a pattern on 1/2" holes which got rid of about 2lbs just in the rotors. Fitted Suzuki 4 piston calipers as tey are lighter than original Yamaha plus it kinda 'standardised' my brake pad stock (fitted Katana front end on 360 plus have a Katana to play with)
With the brake pedal, it has spot welds holding two halves where it fits splined shaft if I remember right? I would have the top and bottom welded (actually I would just weld it up myself, but ,you need a welder for that ;) )
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
I did a dual disc conversion on my XS 650 several years ago. XS disks are known to be stupid heavy but I didn't have means to thin them at the time. ( glad I didn't as tey are quite soft stainless, noticeable wear after 12,000 miles)
I did a pattern on 1/2" holes which got rid of about 2lbs just in the rotors. Fitted Suzuki 4 piston calipers as tey are lighter than original Yamaha plus it kinda 'standardised' my brake pad stock (fitted Katana front end on 360 plus have a Katana to play with)
With the brake pedal, it has spot welds holding two halves where it fits splined shaft if I remember right? I would have the top and bottom welded (actually I would just weld it up myself, but ,you need a welder for that ;) )
I almost was gonna do a dual disc on this bike, have 550 forks and all the stuff to do it but I realized how much weight that would add and decided against it. I may throw it on a CB350 project that isn't focused on weight savings
 

irk miller

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Don't do it. There isn't enough bike. I built the rotors to go to dual disc, installed them both, then pulled one off. You definitely don't need the unsprung weight.
 

crazypj

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Early 35mm CX500 forks with dual rotors,
Much lighter than 70's set-up plus more than adequate on a 350/360 (or even a 400 f ;) )
The dual disc conversion I did on my XS650 used 'single rotor' rotors as they were larger diameter than the dual rotor set up
 

irk miller

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crazypj said:
Early 35mm CX500 forks with dual rotors,
Much lighter than 70's set-up plus more than adequate on a 350/360 (or even a 400 f ;) )
The dual disc conversion I did on my XS650 used 'single rotor' rotors as they were larger diameter than the dual rotor set up
I used EX500 rotors which are even lighter. It's still unnecessary weight, when one rotor and a dual pot caliper provide plenty of stop.
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
Early 35mm CX500 forks with dual rotors,
Much lighter than 70's set-up plus more than adequate on a 350/360 (or even a 400 f ;) )
The dual disc conversion I did on my XS650 used 'single rotor' rotors as they were larger diameter than the dual rotor set up
we have a cx500 sitting around so that may be a better way to go. the 350 will be more of a bobber and focused on looks rather than performance (i know i know) but I'm doing a lot of performance stuff to this bike already... I probably should have swapped the two bikes around actually

im gonna attempt the port job myself with a dremel, i've done it before on a set of Honda SOHC 4cyl heads from a car - so I sorta know what i am doing here. may take a while with a rotary tool but i dont have access to a compressor so that's what i get
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
Early 35mm CX500 forks with dual rotors,
Much lighter than 70's set-up plus more than adequate on a 350/360 (or even a 400 f ;) )
The dual disc conversion I did on my XS650 used 'single rotor' rotors as they were larger diameter than the dual rotor set up
also, choice between larger intake valves - or getting a new set of standard valves from say common motor and use the money saved to get barnett clutch discs instead of EBC ones ?
 

crazypj

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MiniatureNinja said:
im gonna attempt the port job myself with a dremel, i've done it before on a set of Honda SOHC 4cyl heads from a car - so I sorta know what i am doing here. may take a while with a rotary tool but i dont have access to a compressor so that's what i get
You would be a lot better off getting te Harbor Freight Tools electric die grinder and a router speed controller. With 20% off coupon it will be a lot cheaper(particularly if you ave any 1/4" shank burrs)

I would use stock clutch discs with heavy duty springs. Nothing wrong with EBC, I've used them 'forever (European Brake Corporation -I'm British) Unless the original discs are actually damaged or worn below minimum thickness, just re-use them. The springs are almost always the problem. ( so far, I've never replaced clutch discs in any of my 360/378's)
I would get the oversize intake valves, you don't need oversize exhausts
 

MiniatureNinja

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painting top half of the blocks and jugs - I had painted the head this aluminum color but looking at it now I think I'll paint it all black

I chose gloss because it will be easier to clean off, and accent the polished side covers and exhaust I plan to use
 

MiniatureNinja

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still doing stuff. just going slow.



I made the plunge and chopped off the rear shock mounts. This was necessary because no matter what seat I use (this or the tuffside, or the dime city "brass cafe") I didnt want the hoop so far back over the wheel (another reason I chose the longer CJ swingarm)

gonna weld slugs for new shock mounts, just not sure if I want to weld them to the frame tube, or create and weld them to a flange.

suggestions? examples?
 

teazer

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MiniatureNinja said:


pre-cleaning. Anyone got a recommendation for sending heads out for valve seat work and installing new guides? I think the guy I have locally will do it for $250 which I really dont want to have to buy the tools as much as i want to do some things myself, even the installation of guides will require tools I don't have

Since I plan to port the head I think I should also do this BEFORE I get service done, right?
Not sure if you got an answer to this, but have you determined that the guides actually need to be replaced? Honda valve guides typically don't show a whole lot of wear. You can do a quick and dirty check by checking to see how much side play the valves have. If the valves are good and not worn on the stems, you may be OK to just get the valves and seats cut on a SERDI machine. A good machine shop guy should be able to determine the amount of play there.
 

MiniatureNinja

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teazer said:
Not sure if you got an answer to this, but have you determined that the guides actually need to be replaced? Honda valve guides typically don't show a whole lot of wear. You can do a quick and dirty check by checking to see how much side play the valves have. If the valves are good and not worn on the stems, you may be OK to just get the valves and seats cut on a SERDI machine. A good machine shop guy should be able to determine the amount of play there.
Thanks! the Machine shop told me that I shouldn't need to replace the guides. I was simply wanting an upgrade to the entire engine - through his experience I have come to the conclusion that the bronze guides aren't an upgrade anyway (He told me Honda used Iron for a reason) so I'm happy that I can save about $100 there. decided to spend that on 35mm intake valves
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Personally I prefer Neway to Serdi.
Serdi is faster but somewhat limited to the available cutter plus sizes are 'fixed' in the cutter blade ($90.00 per cutter last time I checked in 2009)
Neway are crazy expensive ($200+ each) but cover such a wide range it kinda evens things out when you doing 'special' sizes/cuts/angles plus you can mix & match They are a lot slower to use though which makes a lot of difference when your paying someone else to do the work
 
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