75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Sonreir

Oregon
Let me be the first to say that I love the carbon look.

Now that's that over with, don't overlook the functionality of using a metal tray. The easy grounding of all the components mounted there make for a pretty clean wiring option.
 

MiniatureNinja

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Sonreir said:
Let me be the first to say that I love the carbon look.

Now that's that over with, don't overlook the functionality of using a metal tray. The easy grounding of all the components mounted there make for a pretty clean wiring option.
I considered this, and the tabs that will be welded to the frame to mount the tray at all four corners (those 6mm holes) will be where I make the ground.
 

MiniatureNinja

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rear shock mounts taken off, make room for the *MUCH* tighter seat hoop.



mocked up and then cut these from 3/16" plate.



this is the idea:



Now, here is where I am a little bit skittish. The TC bros rear subframe kits and the Cognito-Moto shock mount kits all use this same idea... a 3/16" thick plate cut and shaped to which you weld your shock mounts. its a good bit thicker and heavier than the stock setup (but the stock setup is boxed)

I have plenty more material to cut more of these plates and make a boxed section, but I am wondering if this really is strong enough?

(Dime City Cycles universal cafe racer shock mount slugs) :





EDIT: sorry about your neck, for some reason all images were rotated
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
You n eed to remove a little 'triangle' so where tubes meet doesn't get welded/stressed and gusset becomes more of a brace
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
You n eed to remove a little 'triangle' so where tubes meet doesn't get welded/stressed and gusset becomes more of a brace
you're talking about the buttweld? yea, I did end up doing that, getting welded tomorrow so will post back updates then


spent today polishing



pleased with the results, considering how back these looked before! (including a huge gouge out of the clutch cover right where the brake pedal kissed it)
 

MiniatureNinja

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Got lots of parts in the mail today: teaser until i can photograph them all tomorrow evening in the garage

Clip-on handlebars
Cables (shorter clutch, new throttles)
Grips
Levers
Misc hardware (nearly every bolt is replaced with a stainless socket head)
Tachometer (already modified to have a NS indicator)
Rear Shocks
speedy seigle aluminum rear brake stay
Exhaust adaptors (until custom exhaust is welded up by a pro)
35mm KPMI intake valves
Clutch Springs, Clutch discs
bronze swing arm bushings
tapered bearings for steering head
Fuze block, vintage cloth covered wire, battery
universal 12v 5ohm canister coils, new wire and caps

still LOTS to do before she's ready for the road but I am very excited. Also here in Northern California we've been hit with snow and rain pretty much solidly for weeks. Might get to ride the end of April before the local Vintage bike show


one problem I foresee is that the Rick's stator doesn't have the mark for the timing. Not sure how I am going to time this bitch because I don't have the original stator any more
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Unless you really need new clutch plates I would stick with stock. They seem to work better (or just as bad ;D ) as anything else out there when you have 'race' springs fitted and will take several years of abuse (or several thousand miles) Should save you around $50.00 you can spend on something else (better tyres?)
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
Unless you really need new clutch plates I would stick with stock. They seem to work better (or just as bad ;D ) as anything else out there when you have 'race' springs fitted and will take several years of abuse (or several thousand miles) Should save you around $50.00 you can spend on something else (better tyres?)
Good info, I seam to remember you telling me before and I measured the stock ones - they are at the very limit of tollerance so I decided to get new ones. I saved some money on the seat that I really wanted (tuffside) and bought a cheasy ebay universal cafe seat in the mean time.. that extra $300 will go to tires (tyres). I dont want to comprimise with the xs wheels, so I am going to wait on the wheels until I can afford some sun rims - but at 3x the cost that may be next year. Biggest fudge I have right now is where to find a cable for this remote master cylinder setup


regarding the timing mark, can I just "guess" the mark on the ricks stator based on location of factory ones from a picture or do I need to buy a factory used one from ebay to time this thing
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
You need to line up TDC accurately then just make a mark on stator. An automotive style bolt on plate should work (but you will have to fabricate something)
SUN rims? Any particular reason? Probably overkill unless your going dirt track racing or using WM4/5 rear and need matching front? The Mikes XS WM3 are fine for weight/use on 360 (or XS650 ;D )
 

irk miller

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Most dirt bikes use a WM3 rear rim, and they go through a lot of abuse and mount a decent width tire. They're usually 1.85 in the front, which for a 19" rim would be a W2.
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
You need to line up TDC accurately then just make a mark on stator. An automotive style bolt on plate should work (but you will have to fabricate something)
SUN rims? Any particular reason? Probably overkill unless your going dirt track racing or using WM4/5 rear and need matching front? The Mikes XS WM3 are fine for weight/use on 360 (or XS650 ;D )
Ah, so set engine to TDC left Cyl - then make the mark on the stator where the LT mark lines up. Good idea.

also, Sun rims are not as tall as the Mikes wheels... I really don't like how tall they are. That's it - vanity only
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Thought it may be something like that.
Mikes used to do 'smooth' rims but haven't got on site for a long time and think they may no longer be available?
Use 18" WM 3 both ends, works well with noticeable handling improvement or 18" WM2 front, WM3 rear, either set up seems to work well
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
Thought it may be something like that.
Mikes used to do 'smooth' rims but haven't got on site for a long time and think they may no longer be available?
Use 18" WM 3 both ends, works well with noticeable handling improvement or 18" WM2 front, WM3 rear, either set up seems to work well
I'm doing my best to be metric - but WM2 is 1.85" correct?

I planned to use a 1.85 front, and 2.15 rear with a 3.50-4.00 rear and a 3.00-3.25 front
I was going to get Metzeler Block C tires but they aren't great for grip - I realize there is going to be some sacrifice for a "vintage look" tire... I refuse to use the firestones EVERYONE uses they are trash, but anything has to be better than the ChenShen C-max I have


EDIT:

OK, so I checked their site, and the "WM type" seams to be the "smooth" wheel I am looking for - the photo seams identical to the "H" profile wheel so that may have lead to my confusion.

but they do not list a 1.85x18 36 spoke WM type wheel
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Yep, 1.85" internal on flange
When Mike was running site it was relatively easy to get in touch and get real answers to just about any question with the parts. I heard several years ago that it's now almost impossible to get a decent answer to parts questions? (since about 2011~12) No idea if things have improved as my XS's have been 'on hold' for several years. The XS rear rim on front drum hub is a direct fit (XS rear hub flange is same dimension as Honda, I measured rear XS hub I have ) Fitting to a smaller disk hub needs edges of spoke holes relieved or there will be a 'kink' at the rim leading to possible spoke breakage. Rear hub on 360's, although smaller than XS isn't enough to make a difference.
You can use WM 3 on front, tyre 'spreads' slightly but even a 90/90 is a good fit (wouldn't use a 75-80/90 though)
If your using 3.00~3.25 it will be a major improvement over stock rims
 

MiniatureNinja

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as promised. PARTS!

Speedy Siegl Racing Aluminium Brake Stay, Bronze swingarm bushings, and new shock mount bushings - also the CJ360 swingarm with it's enclosed axle housing and about 1.5" longer than the CB version


DCC Micro Gauge - its hard to tell how small this thing is... 1.9" diameter, so awesome.


Clip Ons, GP Levers (cable brake and clutch) - Biltwell grips


Brake Lines and Pipe - Goodridge Sniper II line - modified pipe to fit. will go the remote master under tank


Barnett Springs & New EBC discs little extra grab, also drilled out the clutch basket for better cooling



Rick's High Output Stator Kit - Rick's is an awesome company and their kits are almost required for these bikes (especially since i am running a LiFePo4 battery


EMGO universal Coils - hoping this work - had to move coils due to location of master cylinder so these came up


Seal Kit - not much to discuss, it's just a seal kit


Motion Pro clutch cable for shorter bars (10" shorter than stock)


Shocks - 4Into1 Supplied these for me, they are adjustable for damping, preload, and length - also progressive


All Balls Tapered steering head bearings. Never knew mine were so bad until I actually pulled it apart and some balls were MISSING!


Lani hooked me up wit this copper head gasket - 69.5mm bore, .042" thick solid copper. Waiting for pistons back from shop before I have to order base gasket from him too




also, rear seat hoop all welded up! no wjust have to weld the shock tabs and mounts - figuring out how to get it all square
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Shouldn't have any issues with EMGO coils, I've used them a couple of times. What throttle are you going to use?
While your welding on frame you may want to get a piece of box section welded in where 'saddle tubes' meet top frame I use 2"x1"x 1/16" wall thickness
I got some pictures on 'Build to Blog' reply 468
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.450
 

MiniatureNinja

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crazypj said:
Shouldn't have any issues with EMGO coils, I've used them a couple of times. What throttle are you going to use?
While your welding on frame you may want to get a piece of box section welded in where 'saddle tubes' meet top frame I use 2"x1"x 1/16" wall thickness
I got some pictures on 'Build to Blog' reply 468
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.450
Throttle is a Motion Pro Honda CR "push pull" throttle - and new cables by them as well. I'm debating a single cable throttle to clean the bars up but I really don't mind the dual throttle cables it looks mean

also, I plan to weld some 3/4" angle at that spot to mount the electronics tray I showed you, should strengthen it up real nice back there
 

MiniatureNinja

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RANT:


got my order from moto-madness
i ordered a 520 chain conversion with a gold EK o-ring chain, 35t aluminium rear and 16t steel front sprocket. 3 weeks after nothing showed up I emailed the owner and got an immediate response, they were out of 38t sprockets. Ok, but I ordered a 35t!!! sorted out, order arrived - sprockets only in the mail, look great... drop shipped from rebel gears . That's irritating, I would have just ordered direct. No chain. so I emailed again - chain on a separate order to arrive today, which it did. Drop shipped from Vortex Racing - again, I would have just ordered DIRECT. Opened the box and it's the WRONG DAMN CHAIN.

I'm very annoyed. Next time I will order direct from the manufacturers, thought moto-madness would take care of me but nope.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Welcome to the world of 'instant Internet experts'
It made me mad for a long time, I deleted over 1100 posts on this site when I first joined as too many 'experts were flaming me for telling it as it is plus didn't even log in for several months.
Many of the 'flamers' are still here and 'well respected' but now repeat the things I told them 9~10 yrs ago so I guess they were willing to learn (but still haven't said sorry for being assholes)
I haven't used 'closing' cables on CV carbs since 1978 (except on customer bikes - never know how bad maintenance will be there)
Only time I've ever had an issue was on 1968 Honda CD175, water got in cable and wind chill froze cable wide open. Killing ignition stopped bike and 10 mins standing still the engine heat unfroze cable. Went a lot slower the last 30 miles home (coming back from 1976 Dragon Rally in North Wales)
 
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