75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

crazypj said:
I edited previous post.
Exhaust is way to short if it's exiting around swing arm pivot point, your not going to run open pipes (could be interesting with 125~130 secondary mains on a dyno to see just what it can do) I would guess around 41~42bhp at te wheel (compared to 36 at the crank that Honda claimed)
CB350's dyno around 26~28bhp, 360's 24~30 at the wheel (obviously more production variations on 360)
oh no, I know these bikes like long exhaust - I plan to have the exhaust come under the frame then right at the back of the frame kick out and up to two reverse cones - I posted a picture of my idea earlier in this thread



EDIT: got piston rings end gapped - now just waiting on the gasket I ordered to arrive and my cylinder head to be done so I can throw this all back together!
 
OK

so I owned up to my mistakes thanks to members here for steering me true!

EDIT: I REALLY hope you guys approve because i DON'T wanna do this again.
note: I plan to weld a 12mm bar all the way through and then cut in the middle between the frame - so that it's straight and I will drill a hole in the ends for a 6mm round head bolt and washer to mount the shocks


chopped off the stupid shock mounts I was so proud of...




welded "proper" ones this time




mocked up how the seat and cowl will look:


I did a bunch of other stuff but I am dead tired and will post more tomorrow
 

whynot

~~~If it ain't raining, I'm riding~~{iii}?~~prost~
Absolutely better......but I'm no welder, wish I could though.

Maybe someday I'll take a class and buy a cheap welder.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
WhyNot said:
Absolutely better......but I'm no welder, wish I could though.

Maybe someday I'll take a class and buy a cheap welder.
Just buy a cheap welder and make a lot of mistakes ;D (just make sure your not doing anything structural until you figure it out)
A lot of cheap 'buzz box' welders turn up at garage sales and Craigslist and a LOT of good work has been done without using TIG, MIG or expensive welders. It is easier with a multi adjustable box plus the learning curve isn't as steep. Welding takes practice more than anything else. Long long time ago (probably around 1975~76?) my brother bought a cheap 100A 'buzz box'
After a few months (and several pounds of electrodes) I was able to weld any steel you will find on a motorcycle I most proud of repair to rear mudguard mount on Honda S90 he had, it was only about 0.018"~0.020" thick.(someone with an S90 probably knows gauge ;D ) Looked like TIG (which I hadn't even heard of at the time) Being a kid helped as well, you don't know you 'can't do that' so you just do it 8)
 

whynot

~~~If it ain't raining, I'm riding~~{iii}?~~prost~
crazypj said:
Just buy a cheap welder and make a lot of mistakes ;D (just make sure your not doing anything structural until you figure it out)
A lot of cheap 'buzz box' welders turn up at garage sales and Craigslist and a LOT of good work has been done without using TIG, MIG or expensive welders. It is easier with a multi adjustable box plus the learning curve isn't as steep. Welding takes practice more than anything else. Long long time ago (probably around 1975~76?) my brother bought a cheap 100A 'buzz box'
After a few months (and several pounds of electrodes) I was able to weld any steel you will find on a motorcycle I most proud of repair to rear mudguard mount on Honda S90 he had, it was only about 0.018"~0.020" thick.(someone with an S90 probably knows gauge ;D ) Looked like TIG (which I hadn't even heard of at the time) Being a kid helped as well, you don't know you 'can't do that' so you just do it 8)
Funny story........been watching the local and not so local cl, haven't found anything.

Working every day of the week don't get time for yard sales.

Got any recommendations for a cheapie at HF. That's my only go to source at the time?

Thanks for the help, and sorry for the momentary threadjack mini.
 
WhyNot said:
Funny story........been watching the local and not so local cl, haven't found anything.

Working every day of the week don't get time for yard sales.

Got any recommendations for a cheapie at HF. That's my only go to source at the time?

Thanks for the help, and sorry for the momentary threadjack mini.
the vulcan welders from HF have been getting pretty great reviews from professional welders on youtube - I bought their migmax 215 and it's on backorder... they are always out of stock, seams to be a very high demand for them as they are VERY good for the price.

went to the local napa and bought a firepower 165 - it's a 230v 50amp welder - I could have spend half that getting a cheaper one and spent the rest on classes and be much better at it.
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
WhyNot said:
Funny story........been watching the local and not so local cl, haven't found anything.

Working every day of the week don't get time for yard sales.

Got any recommendations for a cheapie at HF. That's my only go to source at the time?

Thanks for the help, and sorry for the momentary threadjack mini.
FWIW I use the Harbor Freight (Chicago Electric?) MIG 170, which runs on 220v. I use gas with it and have had great results.
 

whynot

~~~If it ain't raining, I'm riding~~{iii}?~~prost~
Only place I have 220 is at the dryer.

So, I'd have to get a 110.

Thanks
 
WhyNot said:
Only place I have 220 is at the dryer.

So, I'd have to get a 110.

Thanks
that means you already have a 220 breaker... just run a new wire to a new outlet, that's what I did - only 230 I had was at the electric range
 

jpmobius

where does this go?
DTT BOTM WINNER
The new shock mounts are greatly improved. My hat's off to anyone willing to do things over until they are happy with their work, so well done! Your hoop looks fine, however you should check it for tire clearance (didn't see if you checked this already - please disregard if I missed it). This is a very common error - sometimes even by people who should know better. Easiest way is to mock up the rear wheel with the suspension fully compressed. I invariably use a single shock without the spring as I like to have the rear suspension able to be placed in any position for many things (checking fender clearance , brake linkage, exhaust, bodywork, etc.) and recommend you do the same, but I think most people don't bother removing the spring and collapse the suspension with a ratchet strap which works fine if you are only checking for frame clearance.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
I'm hoping 'minininja' already checked that, it's been an issue since at least 2009 and sme bikes have been completely re-built to correct the problem. Often just fitting longer socks works. I made new shock bases. for a CB650 that had 2" clearance with 4" suspension travel
It was kinda 'interesting' to ride when the wheel hit frame
 
crazypj said:
I'm hoping 'minininja' already checked that, it's been an issue since at least 2009 and sme bikes have been completely re-built to correct the problem. Often just fitting longer socks works. I made new shock bases. for a CB650 that had 2" clearance with 4" suspension travel
It was kinda 'interesting' to ride when the wheel hit frame
lol I did - it will contact the tire if I don't put shocks on there. but the shocks I have will bottom out with about 1/2" clearance

too close, I know, but "vintage riding" style (just cruising) I have never bottomed out a shock

I really should have used an "upswept" loop, and with the seat and cowl i'm using now I could have, but at the time I was going to use another seat... and this hoop was needed
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Half inch clearance at full bump is plenty, even 1/4" would work as wheel won't generally stay that far 'up' for more than a few milliseconds
Check after a few hundred miles, no 'polishing and your golden (expect to see some marks from dirt and water though) Using correct rim for tyre also helps, putting a 110 on stock rim gives a taller tyre compared to being on a 2.15" rim. 3/8" is generally considered minimum to allow for tyre 'growth' at high speed.
The effect is most dramatic on Top Fuel drag rails, tyres grow about 6~8 " (or more?) and get 'narrower' as speed increases
 
Got to work on tank mount
cut off the frame mount, trimmed down the tank mount
using the hole already there, welded a piece to the frame, cut a hole. Will use a rubber bushing in between or maybe even a grommet in the tank part. I want to use a knurled thumb screw - because this part will be slightly visible with the seat I am using.


sorry for shitty photo
 
Not a lot done recently. Getting down to the wire here for having it ready by end of April bike show. have a feeling I am not gonna make it :(

Last night between dinner and getting kids in the bath I managed to finish the clutch basket
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Choke plates were worn from the screws being loose for a long time, The are tight and staked but without fitting new plates there isn't anything that can be done. It isn't a problem though as the stainless steel connector also acts as a spring to prevent the shaft moving side to side (the flap isn't moving on the shaft, it's the entire assembly )
I didn't remove the connector nut but looking at gif, there may be a washer missing between it and carb body. It still won't be a problem though
 
crazypj said:
Choke plates were worn from the screws being loose for a long time, The are tight and staked but without fitting new plates there isn't anything that can be done. It isn't a problem though as the stainless steel connector also acts as a spring to prevent the shaft moving side to side (the flap isn't moving on the shaft, it's the entire assembly )
I didn't remove the connector nut but looking at gif, there may be a washer missing between it and carb body. It still won't be a problem though
yea it looks like they were jumping around in there for quite a while! amazed I didn't even notice

thanks for fixing them! I am super stoked!

as for the washer, I tried snugging it up with a washer, but the movement of the thing is way more than a washer can take up, unless i back off the screws and move it so it's centered when closed - which I don't really want to do now that they are staked in
 

DTT Sponsors

www.dimecitycycles.com
www.cognitomoto.com
https://www.townmoto.com/collections/vanson-leathers
www.speedmotoco.com
www.CITYLIMITMOTO.com
www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
www.lostapostlejewelry.com
www.sparckmoto.com
Top Bottom