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Longer head pipe (parallel pipe), longer taper and 'fatter belly' should bring power peak down and give broader 'spread' of power.
If you use a 1" perforated steel tube for 'stinger' and wrap with exhaust wadding it will quiet it down as well (use some alloy tube on outside and make a end plate,1/16" wall thickness aluminium drain pipe worked well for me ;D )
Less transitions will probably help as well.
Not sure what race pipes you have?
Are they relatively 'skinny'? (around 3" at 'fat' part?)
Inthe pic above, I would guess pipe is around 4-1/2"~5" dia where it kicks up?
I've built two-stroke exhausts with about 25 transitions each side (PITA but worked awesome)
Thanks for the insight Crazy the one set of chambers on the track bike are in storage but as I recall they are skinnier and shorter. The current set I have made are as follows do you have any idea how these would perform ?
Header is stock 12.5 " outside length.
First taper starts at stock pipe runs 11" to a dia of 4 1/8"
2nd stage is straight at 4 1/8" for a length of 2"
3rd stage tapers down from 4 1/8" to 3 3/8" over a length of 4"
4th stage tapers down from 3 3/8" to 1" over a length of 6"
then a 1" stinger of 12"
Angles are too 'tight'.
Make center section longer (about4"~6")
get rid of 4th section and make 3rd section longer with more gentle taper
Make stinger shorter so it ends around wheel rim or slightly less, level with axle (probably tilted up around 30 degrees from under bike?)
What you have now is a bit short, unless your going to rev it around 11,000+ rpm?
You really need angles not lengths, around 7~10 degrees on taper sections, steeper should give narrower power band at higher rpm (which is what you have now)
You can make operating rpm broader by lengthening entire exhaust
New update: Got the swingarm finished and painted, including the rear springs and caliper bracket. I've also got the brackets made up for the master cylinder.
Here's a side view of the shortened brake stay and pics of the finished swingarm:
New spacers made up for the rear axle:
In addition to welding on the two lugs to the frame, I'll be putting in some steel triangles on the top and bottom to stiffen it up a bit.
I was able to get a few more things done. The shocks are back together. The paint on all the pieces turned out great. I was also able to get the bracket welded onto the frame and put a coat of paint on it. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the rearend all back together for the last time so I can focus on the exhaust and a better bracket for the tail light.
Boner,
What are the ports like (dimensions) on the bike with those short fat race pipes or what are they on teh bike they will be fitted to?
I have some GT dimensions from a radical motor and can update that for your dimensions and pipes and run simulations to see what the power curve looks like and what it responds to in terms of changes.
I was able to get the rearend all back together. I also bled the front and rear brakes. I just have the new lever to paint and a spacer for the rearset assembly and I'll be able to move onto the revised tailight bracket.
I got more work done. Cylinders and heads are off and painted satin black with the fin tips polished. I also made up the templates for the new exhaust. The topend has to go back on and the bike flipped over before I can start getting an idea of how I want to route the exhaust. You can tell by the comparasion to my earlier pipes that it is quite a bit larger in diameter, about a half inch larger.
Heres what the cylinders look like now:
In my earlier pipes, I used a cone layout program and it was a hassle to get it sized correctly when printing. I opted this time to do it "old fashioned" with some math and big compasses. It worked out great, and saved me a bunch of paper.
I'll be able to get the cylinders back on and sheet metal bought tomorrow and hopefully start cutting. Thanks, Joe
yet another update, hopefully just a few more weeks to go and it'll be all complete. I got the exhaust finished. I ended up using the baffles from one of my earlier pipes not only for saving me time, but I liked the look. I'll end up painting them satin black once I get the rear mounts worked out.
I changed the location of the coils from under the tank to on the sides of the downtubes. I machined up some simple aluminum clamps. Having them under the tank made it difficult for the removal of the head bolts. The new location opens up the space quite nicely.
And lastely, I bought some vinyl stickers on ebay to compliment my shocks. Their value jumped from $100 to $900 in seconds.
F***me, that thing is looking fantastic 8)
Really like the new pipes, coil mounts are 'race' keep them cool in the airflow and fairing will 'hide' them
It's going to need a good fork brace, you won't be able to stop yourself going WFO when you get a 'good' set of corners
WOW Joe. You just never stop. This thing is looking unreal! Those new pipes are awesome! Makes me wish i waited for version 4.0 or whatever these are before i had you make me up a set. Keep it up!
Thank you for all the compliments. I was able to get thing situated and got the big bits back on. I've got to take the seat and tank back off to do a couple little things but the overall look is done. I've got some ideas on rear exhaust hangars and the exhaust is painted and drying. Thanks, Joe
Ever think of going to reeds? Now that I have a gila monster, I believe I need to try polini-izing a larger bike. Maybe I'll give it a shot on my t500 when I tear it down for a rebuild. Something like this...Thoughts?
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