79 CB750K, RCB clone-ish build

Hahah, Sean will be taking care of the tank, Ive found a shop in Germany that can get me the tail I want from France.

Ive got my new chain on, I need to remove one of the old shock mounts on the swing arm. The chain is just touching the top of pivot of the swing arm and the mount in content, Any issues if I rivet on a piece of teflon at the pivot for the chain to rub on a little?
 
Use a chain tensioner, and a longer chain. Your chain should be no where near your swingarm (within reason of course). BAD THINGS CAN HAPPEN.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chain-Tensioner-Chopper-Motorcycle-Single-Post_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19ba2607fcQQitemZ110497236988QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
VonYinzer said:
Use a chain tensioner, and a longer chain. Your chain should be no where near your swingarm (within reason of course). BAD THINGS CAN HAPPEN.

Actually the teflon should be no problem! Many modern sport bikes run this set-up! I think the FZR for one, and a few others have a chain ride. A piece of teflon grooved for the chain to run over and stay in place as the swinger articulates. Look for some factory chain rides and try to use one of thiers! I think they are actually held in place with double sided tape. The 3M emblem tape is some really tough sticky shit! Try it!
 
All true... My thoughts are that in this instance, It wasnt designed that way, so why not err on the side of caution. A tensioner may be overkill, but... Is the chain just barely touching the swingarm or is it really pressing against it?
 
Good point Von, I was just thinking after my post that BR had to have screwed his geometry some, as that bike from the factory has no chance of the chain hitting the swinger!

BR, did you change sprocket on either end? Both ends? or did you increased the pitch of the swinger to the point of contact?

No matter what you did to get here, I foresee problems with your ride quality! Your geometry has to be FUCKED!

I still think your biting off a bigger hunk than you can chew! I am done arguing that point though, its your ass!
 
Its just barely toutching it.

The chain is only touching the arm because its a much larger boxed alumninum one compared to the stock 1" steel tube one. Its hitting the pivot because its like 2" compared to the stock 1" diameter, The wheel base is only stended by enough distance as the stock chain wouldent fit, 1" max. I only wanted it because it was of the boxed variety. The stretch? Dident care about it at the start, just kinda cool to have. The sprockets are the stock size. If I could find a larger toothed rear, it would probiblay solve the problem but highway riding would suffer.

Il make a nice thin alumninum guide with some teflon on top.

Thanks for the help.
 
Re: 79 CB750K, Bol d 'Or RCB inspired build

Basement rat said:
A little more off the wall now, What about my rear brake brace? Does it matter what position my drum is in?
The drum won't care, but the brace.

Im talking about the brace point for the drum that connects to the swing arm.
Does it need to be in the 6 O' clock position or would 3 point straight forward work?
The brace should be rectangular to the line wheel-axle:brace point (@ drum).
If you move this to 3 o' clock, it'll be some 180°, and any given torque of
the drum will cause infinite force on the brace.

Know what I mean?

Best regards
Sven
 
VonYinzer said:
Use a chain tensioner, and a longer chain. Your chain should be no where near your swingarm (within reason of course). BAD THINGS CAN HAPPEN.

He said the chain is touching the TOP of the swingarm - you can't use a tensioner up top on a high power bike (well, not for very long anyway :eek:)

You need to check this when you have the suspension mounted and the bike "loaded". It will probably / hopefully not touch the swingarm when it is on the road. If it does, yes you can mount a rubber guard on top of the swingarm to act as a slipper (old car tyre tread works quite well ;))
 
My day was fucked yesterday, I got the chance to go down and have a quick look at the bike... Its not touching the pivot, just the old mount on the top of the swinger, Gonna trim it down and make a slider.

I did however see on the brake upon much closer inspection that there is that little key grove.

The stay makes perfect sence, its easier to have it stressed under tention then compression or some weird torque.
 
hillsy said:
He said the chain is touching the TOP of the swingarm - you can't use a tensioner up top on a high power bike (well, not for very long anyway :eek:)

You need to check this when you have the suspension mounted and the bike "loaded". It will probably / hopefully not touch the swingarm when it is on the road. If it does, yes you can mount a rubber guard on top of the swingarm to act as a slipper (old car tyre tread works quite well ;))

Whoops... Musta missed that. :-X
 
For everyone concern regarding my health, safety and well fare:

DSC03308.jpg


That's it. I'm going to file off about half of the thickness of the mount seen and make my slider as said above.


There isn't "That" much that would need done to get riding again. My electrical is almost finished and tomorrow I am going to make some templates for my shock mount gussets. In all that there is the engine detailing...

DSC03309.jpg


Yea, the obvious stuff like the tank and seat... It will take some time but I can still ride during that ;D
 
Basement rat said:
For everyone concern regarding my health, safety and well fare:

DSC03308.jpg


That's it. I'm going to file off about half of the thickness of the mount seen and make my slider as said above.

fail.

I really don't want to sound harsh - but the mount is thick for a reason right there. Aluminum does not behave like steel.

IF that mount wasn't there, you would be fine with dehlrin or other type high abrasion plastic, but man, I wouldn't cut that mount. But that's just me and my fear of not being able to pay my mortgage.
 
True, I am not cutting it off, I am not shaving it down to the hole ether, just about half of the thickness of the material to the hole and finishing the edges nice and round.

When I sit on it it the chain is clear. I just need to open that gap a little more.
 
Run a bigger rear sprocket. Even 1 tooth might make a big difference, as would pulling the rear wheel forward in the adjusters to bring the big sprocket closer to the shock mounts, thereby changing the angle of the chain in that spot.

You could also shorten the rear shock - that might change the angle as well.

That and some of that fancy slider plastic and I think you'd be ok?
 
Basement rat said:
DSC03308.jpg


That's it. I'm going to file off about half of the thickness of the mount seen and make my slider as said above.

Aren't you mounting the shock on the RHS like in the pic?? Cut that mount off if you aren't going to use it ;)
 
Cut that mount off and get you a chain slider. MX bikes all run sliders they have to. You can get a lot of riding out of one. You'll be fine after cutting down that mount and getting a slider. Keep it up.
 
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