Another patina Honda CB360 build

Snacks

New Member
I have a CB360 sitting in my parents garage where it’s been for almost a year. Doing some work on it here and there. Just recently have I started getting serious about
A. making it run
B. turning it into a cafe racer.

When I first bought it, the po was turning it into cafe and had already cut the seat and other small cafe things. For some reason I was under the impression the motor was in decent shape. Why I thought that, fools me too. By the pictures I’ve seen, the bike didn’t look like that at all. Lol but for $400 I guess I wasn’t too upset either way. I planned on rebuilding the motor until I started tearing into it and problems after problems after problems arose. The bike never got the recall, it had metal flakes in the engine the valve cover was missing metal and wouldn’t seat. I bought a kit start lever seeing it didn’t come with one and found the mechanism was stripped. So all in all I have to fully rebuild the engine. And I want to be able to ride it while that process is going on so I was forced to buy an actual good engine from someone in Philly (2 hr drive from me). Another $200 bucks later and a 4hr ride home I had a good engine. Now this is my first Honda cb build but I built a Cafe racer out of a Kawasaki enduro. Which didn’t last long. The day I rode it to my girlfriends house aka a week after my plates were on the bike got stolen. I got it back but lost complete interest it just didn’t feel the same. So I bought the cb. And just now got the motivation to build another cafe. I planned on making this a quick build but realistic might take some time, seeing I’m in firefighter and EMT training.

My plan for this post is mainly for me so I can keep track of things I’ve done, need to do, and get help from people more familiar with cb360’s than I am.

The bike still needs to be stripped and painted, before I do that I need to weld the electronics box together (I’m a terrible welder) frame loop and make my own seat (first I’m going for a brat style seat and later once the bike is rideable I’m going to fiberglass a cafe seat.
 

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Snacks

New Member
Thanks everyone already who’s showing interest in the build. 8)

Yesterday after I forced myself off the couch to get some of the box done. Got the sides of the box cut out and welded after a few failed attempts ( im a terrible welder), but managed to get the sides in. Still need to weld the top mounting points and the battery hold down as well as the back. Today I decided to work on the single speedometer mount for the speedo. I had to really think if I wanted to keep the original speedometer, And the fact is. It saves cost as well as keeps it more original. So I gave my welder a break for this and opened up my cad software. I made two different versions. One that fits on the whole speedometer and another that fits just the bare Necessities. Which is the one I’m going to use. So later I’m hopefully going to 3d print it and have a picture of the mount completed. And on the bike.
 

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Snacks

New Member
good morning everyone, heres a quick update. i was tinkering in the garage last night, was during some polishing, polished the upper triple and the breather on the old engine. i'll have to transfer it to the new one. i recently discoverd the old owner of the bike cleaned out the carbs already after i bought the kit already so i have a spare carb rebuild kit. DOH. all in all, the carbs are good. hopefully if the rain stops i'll get a chance to go finish the electrics tray.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Cheap pods end up being a waste of money as you will replace them with better ones to get bike running better. I always recommend K&N RU1820. They are not cheap but have best airflow at higher rpm (~7k up) UNI's are a cheaper alternative but I don't have a part number for them as I've only had them on bikes I bought with them fitted (and changed them for K&N)
 

Snacks

New Member
I’ll look those filters up. The pods don’t have to be cheap, engine wise I’m not looking to cheap out. I’d prefer to keep the bike running through old age but I’ll see how that works. Are those the pods that you use?
 

cb360j

Member
Yep he recommends everyone use the K&N. If you order off the K&N website they send you a free hat as well lol
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I've run the K&N and Uni on PJ's carbs on two different bikes- one a mostly stock 360 motor, the other a 378. Both filters did very well. I can't remember off the top of my head what the out diameter of the inlet is on the carbs, but you order the UNI filters by that size. I ran the dual layer filters for UNI.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Back edge of tray isn't going to contact tyre as suspension moves?Irk, did you notice any difference between K&N and Uni's? I think Uni's may run slightly richer?
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
crazypj said:
Irk, did you notice any difference between K&N and Uni's? I think Uni's may run slightly richer?
They did seem a little richer on the lower end.
 

Snacks

New Member
It looks like it in the picture but in real life it doesn’t look that close, I’ll have to check tomorrow when I head back up there. And I really like the way the uni’s look. The black looks full if that makes since. What size jets do you recommend for the unis to start? Should be about spring when I really start riding it.
 

Snacks

New Member
Got a few things done, removed the old motor and cleaned up the frame a bit. I’m about to start stripping everything else and cleaning it up. But the main thing that’s concerning me is the motor I picked up is “HEAVILY” oxidated and covered in grime. The blown motor looks alot better than the good one. Anyone have any suggestions or tips to help cleaning the engine go a lot faster and or just making it look really good??
 

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Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Pressure washer to start. That will get rid of the big bits of dirt and some of the grime. The rest of the oil should come off with some degreaser and usually a scrub brush. Wire brush for the oxidation.

Media blasting is also an option, but you have to be very careful not to introduce any particles to the engine (especially the oil pathways).

Vapor blasting is the best option, but usually the most expensive.
 

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