Another patina Honda CB360 build

farmer92

Member
I like to soak all my grimy shit in a bucket of diesel for a day and then pressure wash.
Won’t clean the oxidation, but does a stupendous job for oil and grease.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
There isn't any 'magic' way to make engine look good. Other than paying someone else to do it, it's just a bunch of scrubbing, scraping , wire brush and polishing.Could also bead or soda blast then paint or powder coat
 

teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Just a thought, but if the "good" motor looks so bad on the outside, why do we believe it's good on the inside? It might be smart to strip that motor too and that way you can bead/soda/vapor blast the bare parts and build one good looking, mechanically sound motor from both sets of parts.

That reminds me that I should sell off the 360 bottom end I have had hanging around for years partly stripped.

BTW Carb rebuild kits are usually full of parts that are significantly far from spec. Best way to get you carbs set up is to send them to PJ.
 

Snacks

New Member
You have a good point. Unfortunately you’re right and I honestly don’t know if it’s any good. Besides the fact, it spins, has proper compression. No shavings in the oil, And this one actually had both recalls done. I don’t really know. I still plan on pulling the valve cover to at least check for top end starvation. But I bought this one to literally beat it around while I build the original engine. Seeing I’m really slow at building engines. Really really slow. But I will possibly have it ported and polished if it needs it. I don’t want to go to deep on this particular engine. I will get caught up going over board really quickly. Like I did on the Kawasaki. And as far as the carbs go. I’ll take some pictures hopefully pj can chime in again. Hopefully he’ll be able to tell the quality of the rebuild kit, by pictures.

Anyway, turns out marvel mystery, a scotch brite pad, and a wire brush and a couple hours of my time is all I need for a clean engine. I got some of it clean today, it looks like it just sat for a really long time. A lot of oxidation. But under the oxidation I was a little surprised to see it comeing back to life so easily.

Also sold a roof rack I had. And the buyer I sold it too told me about a Honda cm450 he had. And he’s practically giving it to me as well, as a spare engine he has for it. I’m extremely grateful. I don’t know what I’m going to do with it yet. I might end up giving it away and keeping the headlight and other little parts.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
So far I havent seen any kit with correct sized pilot jets (not to Kei-Hin spec) Even some jets marked as Kei-Hin do not have correct sized holes compared to genuine original CB360 stuff I've checked (over several years)Stock jetting only works with stock airbox, you can fit larger secondary main jets to compensate for exhaust system changes but as soon as you fit 'pods' (K&N or Uni) the carbs need some extra work to prevent a major issue between 4 ~ 7,000rpm (varies depending on exhaust and jet sizes. You WILL have a problem somewhere in that range
 

Snacks

New Member
i plan on changing jets, when i get the uni's. where do you recommend i start? brand, sizes. i know it all depends on exhaust and carb filters. but is there anywhere you can shoot me in the right direction?
 

Snacks

New Member
today is a calm day, i was reading MiniatureNinjas cb360 thread, so much useful information on it. it was really overwhelming.

but after i got some motivation, I popped of the valve cover. just to make sure i wasn't getting a disaster of an engine, and found very minimal top end starvation. did notice a little scarring on the cam, but way better than the engine im rebuilding though. wanted to get some insight from you cb360 guys, on what you think i should do. i want to just throw it back on and run it until the other engine is done. but the paranoid part of me is like NO!!... so this leaves me at a cross road. and something i really dont want to do is be stuck, fully rebuilding 2 engines. thats not happening.
 

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irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
Meh, it will be fine. Doesn't look like any spalling on the lobes or rocker pads, either.
 

Snacks

New Member
i was going to head to the store to buy some steel threaded rod, for frame inserts. but i remembered i had 1" stock handle bars from my g3. theyre pretty ugly looking, so i cut them up to make some inserts for the frame loop. the fit was literally perfect! took a little while to get the loop mated with the frame. i still have a small gap i need to sort out before welding. but i'll save that for tuesday.
 

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irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
If it's a rigid it has zero. LOL. You need to test for whatever shocks you get, and rated for your bike and your weight. Should be 3 inches or so, more or less.
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
Take one shock off and ratchet strap the swingarm to your subframe, crank it down until the shock bottoms out. There's your full travel. If the tire hits your subframe before the shock bottoms out, well...
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Cam looks fine, rockers ain't too bad. Does show it's been running with valves too tight though on 3 of the 4 lobes. All the base circles should be 'darker'. Being polished shows rockers were touching cam all the way around. Do oil transfer piece mod while you have clutch cover off
 

Snacks

New Member
irk miller said:
If it's a rigid it has zero. LOL. You need to test for whatever shocks you get, and rated for your bike and your weight. Should be 3 inches or so, more or less.
thanks, i think im going to go with the length i have it. i plan on raising it about an inch in the rear. ss
 

Snacks

New Member
crazypj said:
Cam looks fine, rockers ain't too bad. Does show it's been running with valves too tight though on 3 of the 4 lobes. All the base circles should be 'darker'. Being polished shows rockers were touching cam all the way around. Do oil transfer piece mod while you have clutch cover off
of course when i type oil transfer mod, you have a how to. lol
 

Snacks

New Member
yesterday: i planned out the color scheme, black and polished is what it is. for the patina look i bought a tank from a 1974. i love the orange, with rust showing. on the red tank i'm going to eventually body fill and paint it to go with the cafe seat. i'll probably switch it up a year after i finish the brat style. who knows.

today: i wanted to weld the hoop in, but i suck at welding. so i practiced my welds with the license plate bracket. i still have to round out the edges and adjust the holes slightly. but that's how its going to be. it would've been vertical, if the police out here weren't sticklers for horizontal plates.
 

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