Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

Re: Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

I'm glad that you got the humor in the post. I'm looking forward to seeing tires on this thing as well.

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Okay so a little bit of measurements and data;

My 07 Suzuki SV650 naked model is 17.5 inches from the top of the seat, down to the top of the pegs.
The front edge of the pegs sit approximately 5 inches back from an imaginary straight edge going up and down that is at the front edge of the seat.

Closest I can get on this beast utilizing one of the existing peg bolts on the frame without having to build basically *everything* (And I do mean like the pegs would be in an area where there is no material, at all, floating in the air, haha) is the following;

16 inches from top of seat, down to the top of the pegs.
About 4 inches back from the straight line down from the front edge of the seat.

So I wind up about an inch, inch an a half cramped from the Zuke. I managed to get the old man to hold my phone and snap a pic while I was on the bike. It felt semi-comfortable but I didn't do the 1/2 hour drill and I have to figure out the left side the same (I had a wire-tie ran through part of the master cylinder and around the subframe on the right).




I may do a little bit more data gathering on other models and setups on the dimensions. I'm not really tall (5'10), a bit fat though and while I love my SV if you're on it about 2 hours you are ready to get off the thing for a bit.
 
meh, I doubt that this will be a two hour bike anyhow will it? as long as its not horrible your probably going to be fine id say
 
It would be rare to be riding it that long most likely. I spend about 2 hours on Sunday making some card board templates, working out a nice way to mount the pegs exactly where I wanted them. Carved out another piece of Bucyrus chain case for some plate to weld onto the frame, and the more I looked at it, the more I wasn't really happy that was going to wind up being a sufficient way to do it. So I'm back to hanging the peg in one of the existing holes and welding threaded bosses/studs onto the frame for the other 2 holes on the hayabusa sets, and then just going from there on it. If its a total torture to ride it, then I'll cut it off and redo later on I suppose.
 
Why don't you make up plates out of plywood, just use two over-sized chunks and you can try out a bunch of different holes to mount and try?
 
Re: Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

I was reading another fellas DT400 thread and although he was receiving some flack for lowering the pegs and reducing ground clearance (still a semi dirt/tracker build) I thought he had got the right idea.
Your position does look a little tight, but not crazy. You gotta hold onto that beast, are you happy you can do it? That's what counts :)


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Well here is what I had started with;





You can see the center punch holes in the cardboard for where I was going to bolt the peg. That would have effectively put it one inch lower, and 1 inch further back. The more I looked at it though the more I didn't really like the idea of hanging the pegs just off of that plate. It needed boxed in, and then if I do that I interfere with the width of the swingarm and the master cylinder on the inside of the rear set also.
 
Why not make a bracket that mounts to the original peg holes there and moves it backwards?
 
SONIC. said:
Why not make a bracket that mounts to the original peg holes there and moves it backwards?
Click to expand...

As simple as that sounds...hadn't really thought of it :)

One thing that may be a factor is the width of the pegs sticking outwards then, but that is probably a do-able suggestion.
 
Just wanted to let you guys know I haven't died or left this project, just lost track of how many weekends in a row I've been working, not much time for this beast...

Did work with Dad a little and came up with a plan on the pegs based on the suggestion here of sonic's decided on a way to make a bracket that'll bolt to the frame, and then allow me to bolt the pegs onto that bracket in the position I want. Essentially, 3 threaded bosses to bolt the rear sets to connected by 1/2in Cold Roll. Thence, 2 bosses bolted to the frame in the original locations (with new fresh threaded inserts welded into the frame) that will have a bit more 1/2in cold roll going from there to the other pieces holding the rear set mounts. Something along the lines of the attached diagram, essentially. Without the cardboard backing plate.

I also started tinkering with the stainless exhaust sections, and frankly it is kicking my ass. I would call myself a pretty good tig welder since I've been farting around with it since I was about 15 (now 30), but I'm having a hell of a time with it. Been chatting with a friend that has tons of experience on it trying to figure out if it is me or my old transformer based machine that isn't playing well at low amperage, yet to be determined.
 

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Heres some of the sections I've been rolling for the pipe
 

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Well, thought I'd really accomplished something and come to find out the bolt pattern on the left set is different than the right, its not just mirrored...I have to drill another hold in my little aluminum plate fixture for the left set before I can start on them.

The right side sticks a little further out than I would like, I may be able to make some adjustments and slide them in about another 1/2 inch which would make a difference I think. I could also invert the mount and put it on the outside, which is what I will probably do, but I have some other tweaking to do around the sub frame then. In any case, definitely solid as a rock the way its put together!








This is the difference in the bolt pattern for the left and right sides, believe it or not;

 
Seems to me you've made a really deluxe jig there. If you are happy with the peg location, why not simply use the new bracket to align a new smaller mount for the factory made foot peg/brake bracket and weld it directly to the frame? That way your peg assembly will be in the right place and bolt directly to the frame, and you can then cut the original peg mount off of the frame tube and really clean up and simplify the whole design. Smaller, lighter, stronger - better! What you have now is a bracket holding on another bracket.
 
jpmobius said:
Seems to me you've made a really deluxe jig there. If you are happy with the peg location, why not simply use the new bracket to align a new smaller mount for the factory made foot peg/brake bracket and weld it directly to the frame? That way your peg assembly will be in the right place and bolt directly to the frame, and you can then cut the original peg mount off of the frame tube and really clean up and simplify the whole design. Smaller, lighter, stronger - better! What you have now is a bracket holding on another bracket.
Click to expand...

I don't necessarily follow? The skeleton bracket I made uses the existing 250R frame foot peg mounts, and then goes to the 'busa sets, and everything bolts into place? The aluminum plate was my fixture. The mount with the 5 points, is the bracket. You're saying just make some new tabs to bolt the busa pegs directly to the frame? It's not quite that simple with where I wanted them to wind up at, you can go back and look at some of the pictures of just the adapeter on the frame by itself to get an idea of what I mean. I'd really need to box in a section behind the frame cradle with some threaded inserts. The problem is, the swing arm is so close to the inside of the frame and the sub frame, you don't really have room to do that without getting too close for comfort IMO. That has been the one challenge with these sets, is to get them tucked in enough they don't look goofy, but also far enough away the banjo bolt and back part of the master cylinder doesn't get into the arm.
 
BillyGoat4130 said:
You're saying just make some new tabs to bolt the busa pegs directly to the frame?
Click to expand...

Right. In your last two pics, you have the Suzuki peg assembly behind your new skeleton bracket. I can see it looks tight, but you can make any needed clearance by simply moving it outboard. It would still be tucked in very considerably from the original outboard location in the first pics. Put some washers under the skeleton "jig" where it bolts to the factory mounts to mock it up, holding the peg assembly in the right location to allow space for the permanent weld on tab behind it. It looks like there is enough space behind it in your last pics as you have pretty nearly the diameter of the frame tube available for depth. A piece of 1/4" plate welded to the frame threaded to accept the peg assembly mounting bolts should be plenty strong as the mounting points are so close to the frame. 1/4" steel plate may not be the most "trick" material, but it would be much lighter and cleaner than your very nicely made skeleton bracket.
 
OK, so I took another look at your pics. Your original cardboard pattern looks perfect, though I see you moved the peg location by the time you made the skeleton bracket and rotated the peg assembly so the upper mount is over the top of the sub frame tube. This might require a bit more surgery to get your mounting plate in the right place - if you want to keep your current location/orientation you'll have to notch the bottom of the sub frame tube to let in the plate, but obviously you have the skills to do that. On the positive side, that makes the mount even smaller, so stronger and lighter!
 
I follow what you're saying, but I guess I'm just not totally on board with a plate/tab setup. That was my idea and plan with the cardboard template originally, but I had changed my mind.

My aluminum jig could bolt right onto the frame and do what you're saying, but I just liked the idea of a bracket moreso. Its solid as a rock this way, I have my doubts even a 1/4 in plate would be more sturdy especially with vibrations and side load over time, but never know. I have to keep remembering I'm not riding this thing off road and certain components will not get near the beating I am use to. I really like how the bracket looks. I had figured in my head while I was building it, to go behind the busa rear set, but I like the look and design so much after finishing I want to figure out how to get it on the outside, basically.


(Already had this in SmugMug)


(Old piece of plate I had cut for the mount when I was thinking plate, too)
 
Re: Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

I guess yall don't like my bracket...lol :)

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