calling all BMW guys. /// and gals
- Thread starter axeugene27
- Start date
buckeyebike
Over 1,000 Posts
Just put Shinko tires on the R80RC- great reviews and reasonably priced. Fit perfectly, good looking tread, but have not put any miles on them . . . 100/90/19 Front and 120/90/18 Rear . . . $135 shipped for the pair from Superbike Warehouse or something like that 
axeugene27
Over 1,000 Posts
what about tubes though. Shit now i have to find an exact 4.00- 18 tube?
axeugene27
Over 1,000 Posts
I think i am just gonna go up to the dealer and see what they have tomorrow i hate waiting for stuff.
buckeyebike
Over 1,000 Posts
Delivered in two days
buckeyebike
Over 1,000 Posts
You'll want 18", but like Tim says, you are likely to see a box marked 3.25-4.25 or something like that.
buckeyebike
Over 1,000 Posts
The dealer is likely to try to get you in a $300 set of tires . . . advice is free though.
axeugene27
Over 1,000 Posts
Well i just ordered a rear tire for now went with an avon roadrider for $125. Front tire looks to be in pretty solid shape right now so i am gonna wait till next season to replace it. was the only tire i could find in 4.00-18 plus it's an avon so it looks like it will work well.
IndieSol
"This one goes to eleven." -Nigel Tufnel
Great deal on a great bike. Here's mine....An R100. Only mods are Dunstall replica mufflers and a set of Euro spec BMW handlebars. Love this bike.
Touring...
A couple pointers...If you ever have to remove the exhaust nuts, exercise caution. If during removal they seem to break free and then get tight again, do not force it. Spray in some PB blaster, let it sit and try again. A common issue on these is to have the threads of the exhaust flanges bond to threads on the cylinder. If you have this happen to you, it is easiest to carefully cut off the exhaust flange with a hack saw. The flanges are like $15 as opposed to having the cylinders machine and rethreaded. This can happen with the plug you check the secondary oil with as well.
Also, the charge light on these bikes is an integral part of the charging system. If the charge light does not come on when you turn on the key, and then turn off again when the bike is running (or at least above 1500 rpms or so), the charging circuit will not complete and the battery won't charge. Even if it's something as simple as the charge light bulb being burned out - no chargy. This happened to me. It happened to be some connections in the instrument cluster that needed to be resoldered.
Pay attention to the oil filter parts when you do the oil change or pretty much anything else. If the manual says to replace the washer, do it. Make sure to buy the proper replacement parts and put EVERYTHING back in the right order....Buy more oil filter crush washers than you think you'll need.
Get the big old thick Clymer manual as well as the factory one. There is a bit of conflicting information out there so it's good to have both.
Touring...
A couple pointers...If you ever have to remove the exhaust nuts, exercise caution. If during removal they seem to break free and then get tight again, do not force it. Spray in some PB blaster, let it sit and try again. A common issue on these is to have the threads of the exhaust flanges bond to threads on the cylinder. If you have this happen to you, it is easiest to carefully cut off the exhaust flange with a hack saw. The flanges are like $15 as opposed to having the cylinders machine and rethreaded. This can happen with the plug you check the secondary oil with as well.
Also, the charge light on these bikes is an integral part of the charging system. If the charge light does not come on when you turn on the key, and then turn off again when the bike is running (or at least above 1500 rpms or so), the charging circuit will not complete and the battery won't charge. Even if it's something as simple as the charge light bulb being burned out - no chargy. This happened to me. It happened to be some connections in the instrument cluster that needed to be resoldered.
Pay attention to the oil filter parts when you do the oil change or pretty much anything else. If the manual says to replace the washer, do it. Make sure to buy the proper replacement parts and put EVERYTHING back in the right order....Buy more oil filter crush washers than you think you'll need.
Get the big old thick Clymer manual as well as the factory one. There is a bit of conflicting information out there so it's good to have both.
axeugene27
Over 1,000 Posts
Well been working fervishly on getting her up to running condition. Today I took a trip out to cleveland and met with some penton guy who sells bing carb parts to get a new idle jet for one of my carbs. The idle jet was badly stripped and lodged in the carb body. I tried everything to get it out but had to resort to drilling it out (carefully). Luckily i didn't damage the threads and the new idle jet seats nicely. Got the carbs cleaned up rebuilt (they really weren't too bad) and reinstalled. I have taken the bags off, taken the crash bar off, rubbed out the tank (amazing what rubbing compound will do for an old tank), shined up alot of aluminum, cleaned the engine somewhat, changed the oil, changed the air filter, changed the oil filter, Put on a new rear tire, Put in a new westco sealed battery, new ngk spark plugs. Didn't get around to setting gaps/ timing, valve clearance yet but thought i'd give her a go and see what happened.....
Cranked it over a bunch....nothing.... Kicked it a couple times (kickstart on this thing is weird and feels so heavy engine doesn't sound like anything else when you kick it. Sprayed some starter fluid. FIRES plumes of white smoke from the right cylinder. Left does nothing. I look at the bowl dry. Fuel flows with the bowl off though so adjust the float height BINGO fires on both cylinders. Got the carbs dialed in for idle per manual. Runs amazingly well for a bike that has sat 7 yrs. after running 5 min you barely had to touch the starter and it springs to life. Only thing i notice is alot of valve chatter from the right cylinder ( I think that is what it is). Was making a kind of squeaking noise when idling low too. Not sure but that seemed to let up after running a while but the chatter is still evident. Left cylinder runs like a champ. Ran to the BMV got her legal and put some pavement under the wheels. It is no speed queen, but at speed it sure is smooth. Suspension is amazing for a bike this age. Brakes suck The rear brake seemed to have plenty of life wonder what the front looks like. I noticed jackwagon PO put too large a front tire on and it's rubbing the inside right side of the fender so gonna be replacing that soon. It feels like its' def a highway bike at speed it is very comfortable though i do want euro bars these put you back to far to be ergo correct. Makes my 350 cafe seem really quick which maybe it is. Maybe mikunis would waken it up a little bit. Not gonna judge till I have it fully tuned. In any case on the country road at 55 mph it was heavenly. I will post some pics soon for now it's in the garage under cover I'm gonna ride the shit out of this thing.
Cranked it over a bunch....nothing.... Kicked it a couple times (kickstart on this thing is weird and feels so heavy engine doesn't sound like anything else when you kick it. Sprayed some starter fluid. FIRES plumes of white smoke from the right cylinder. Left does nothing. I look at the bowl dry. Fuel flows with the bowl off though so adjust the float height BINGO fires on both cylinders. Got the carbs dialed in for idle per manual. Runs amazingly well for a bike that has sat 7 yrs. after running 5 min you barely had to touch the starter and it springs to life. Only thing i notice is alot of valve chatter from the right cylinder ( I think that is what it is). Was making a kind of squeaking noise when idling low too. Not sure but that seemed to let up after running a while but the chatter is still evident. Left cylinder runs like a champ. Ran to the BMV got her legal and put some pavement under the wheels. It is no speed queen, but at speed it sure is smooth. Suspension is amazing for a bike this age. Brakes suck The rear brake seemed to have plenty of life wonder what the front looks like. I noticed jackwagon PO put too large a front tire on and it's rubbing the inside right side of the fender so gonna be replacing that soon. It feels like its' def a highway bike at speed it is very comfortable though i do want euro bars these put you back to far to be ergo correct. Makes my 350 cafe seem really quick which maybe it is. Maybe mikunis would waken it up a little bit. Not gonna judge till I have it fully tuned. In any case on the country road at 55 mph it was heavenly. I will post some pics soon for now it's in the garage under cover I'm gonna ride the shit out of this thing.
axeugene27
Over 1,000 Posts
Oh and while i was wrencing in my front yard some guy stopped and BS me for a while asked me if it was for sale. HA guess if i ever wanted to sell it wouldn't be that tough. He actually had a 73 R5 in the back of his truck. Cool dude gave me his card some kind of RD specialist.
buckeyebike
Over 1,000 Posts
That is great news- you will love it. It is a classic and a BMW, how could you not like it?
axeugene27
Over 1,000 Posts
I'd love it even more if it stopped pissing gas all over the place. I think the float needle may be worn or the passage dirty or something. May need to get new needles and floats. Mo money Mo problems.
session101
Been Around the Block
if the floats are too high the carbs are meant to leak, i bench adjusted mine but then when i put them on the bike they leaked, so i adjusted the float on the bike and it stopped, make sure your cork gasket on the bowl is still good too
axeugene27
Over 1,000 Posts
yeah just replaced the gasket. I think some debris must of been stuck in the float needle port keeping it from seating proper because gas would flow even with it fully depressed. I have to go through the carb when i have time and set them up again. It runs pretty well aside from the gas leakages. I need 1 new petcock too think i'll just get an inline shut off valve for now as the one petcock will not shut off gas flow. I will try to take it apart and see if i can get er fixed. There is a little oil leaking from where the right cyclinder meets the crankcase too.
Don't spend too much money on those carbs - i.e. don't go buying diaphragms if they turn out to be torn. Ultimately you might be better off getting some Mikuni VM32's for it. I swapped my Bings out for the VM's as I have Mikuni's on all my other bikes making it easier to keep it all straight in my feeble mind and I have an assortment of jets etc. now. My Bings never had any problems - I just wanted a little more responsive throttle and the simplicity of the VM's.
The petcocks are rebuildable, and you can buy new ones but typically only the 90 degree ones, not the straight. The oil at the base gasket is nothing to be too concerned about unless it's an actual drip - might be the pushrod seals.
The petcocks are rebuildable, and you can buy new ones but typically only the 90 degree ones, not the straight. The oil at the base gasket is nothing to be too concerned about unless it's an actual drip - might be the pushrod seals.
axeugene27
Over 1,000 Posts
The bings on the r60 are round slide remarkably simple. There is a VERY slow oil drip when the engine is warm seems to be sourcing from the rear of the engine compartment not sure what that is i gotta dive into this thing more. Gotta make money this week though. Got some replacement tank badges really livens it up. I need to consult a paint expert to touch up the tank. I want to keep the original paint just have some fixes.
Oil's cheap, so don't kill yourself on that part yet. Taking parts off the engine is a slippery slope Adjust the valves etc., set the timing and change all the lubes.
Don't forget to disconnect the battery when removing the front engine cover (the nose) as it can brush against the diode board at the top and short it out/burn it out. I've done it.
Also be careful with the big nut on the valve cover. It goes onto a stud that threads into the cylinder head, and it can get stripped - in the cylinder head. That being said, there are also 2 x 6mm studs holding the valve cover on so it will still stay on but just be gentle with it - some people see a big crown nut on a 10mm stud and go to town on them.
Synthetic oil is fine in these bikes as the clutch is dry like a car's. Synthetic will tend to weep however and may leak more in trouble areas. Also if there is an oil leak down by the shifter, it might be your oil pressure sensor which is just forward of it on the engine case. It can fail and leak. Easy replacement - VW part number - don't have to buy from BMW. I think it was a common oil pressure sensor used on Beetles and even Rabbits.
Double check your rear axle pinch bolt on the left and make sure the axle is all the way in and cinched up well. If it backs out the rear wheel bearings, final drive etc. are all at risk.
Above all enjoy it! Something magic about the old BMW's - they 'want' to run.
Adjust the valves etc., set the timing and change all the lubes.Don't forget to disconnect the battery when removing the front engine cover (the nose) as it can brush against the diode board at the top and short it out/burn it out. I've done it.
Also be careful with the big nut on the valve cover. It goes onto a stud that threads into the cylinder head, and it can get stripped - in the cylinder head. That being said, there are also 2 x 6mm studs holding the valve cover on so it will still stay on but just be gentle with it - some people see a big crown nut on a 10mm stud and go to town on them.
Synthetic oil is fine in these bikes as the clutch is dry like a car's. Synthetic will tend to weep however and may leak more in trouble areas. Also if there is an oil leak down by the shifter, it might be your oil pressure sensor which is just forward of it on the engine case. It can fail and leak. Easy replacement - VW part number - don't have to buy from BMW. I think it was a common oil pressure sensor used on Beetles and even Rabbits.
Double check your rear axle pinch bolt on the left and make sure the axle is all the way in and cinched up well. If it backs out the rear wheel bearings, final drive etc. are all at risk.
Above all enjoy it! Something magic about the old BMW's - they 'want' to run.
